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1980 GS1000S Reluctant Rebuild

Hmmm...........I missed the Suzi with the cam chain on the side like that.If you want to send that cover over I'll straighten it,replace the stripping and repaint if you'd like.Those cover are pretty hard to get.
 
nvr2old said:
Kiwi Canuck said:
http://s1071.photobucket.com/user/KiwiCanucker/media/165_zps22d441e4.jpg.html

Aw, heck..just flip it over onto a smooth, flat, hard surface and take a hammer and a small block of wood and lightly tap the dents back out using the flat surface as a dolly, and then skim coat it with a bit of plastic filler if needed, prime, paint..badda bing, badda boom..;)
Click to expand...

Thanks Larry, so the piece of wood is the trick, I may as well have been using a centre punch, that's how it looked when I was done.
Actually I used a small picture framers hammer as it fitted between the groves, and used my vise as the base, I ended up with lots of little bumps, I will try the block of wood method as that makes sense.
Also I suspect I may need to use some filler.
I think my point is well made, you guys who are very good at this think of this as easy.
My challenge is being able to tell when something is prepared well enough and I go ahead and paint the piece only to find it's far from perfect.
It's the thin metal that gives me the most challenges as I seem to do OK with painting heavier pieces, like engine brackets and cailpers etc.

Larry, you mentioned priming before paint, when I touched up my frame I didn't use primer, just sanded the damaged areas back to bare metal with 220, 320 and finished it with 600 grit, and then painted with VHT Roll bar & Chassis Gloss Black.
Will the paint stick OK or should I have used primer?
I am curing it with a blow dryer and on really hot days leaving it out in the sun.
Click to expand...
 
SVSooke said:
Hmmm...........I missed the Suzi with the cam chain on the side like that.If you want to send that cover over I'll straighten it,replace the stripping and repaint if you'd like.Those cover are pretty hard to get.
Click to expand...

Greg, that's a very generous offer, I may take you up on that. I should give it one more go using Larry's advice and see if I can improve on my last effort.

Cheers,
 
Piece of advise,get a proper metal work ball peen hammer.Framing hammers have rounded faces,ball peens are flat.It's really not that bad you should be able to get it good.
 
Kiwi Canuck said:
nvr2old said:
Thanks Larry, so the piece of wood is the trick, I may as well have been using a centre punch, that's how it looked when I was done.
Actually I used a small picture framers hammer as it fitted between the groves, and used my vise as the base, I ended up with lots of little bumps, I will try the block of wood method as that makes sense.
Also I suspect I may need to use some filler.
I think my point is well made, you guys who are very good at this think of this as easy.
My challenge is being able to tell when something is prepared well enough and I go ahead and paint the piece only to find it's far from perfect.
It's the thin metal that gives me the most challenges as I seem to do OK with painting heavier pieces, like engine brackets and cailpers etc.

Larry, you mentioned priming before paint, when I touched up my frame I didn't use primer, just sanded the damaged areas back to bare metal with 220, 320 and finished it with 600 grit, and then painted with VHT Roll bar & Chassis Gloss Black.
Will the paint stick OK or should I have used primer?
I am curing it with a blow dryer and on really hot days leaving it out in the sun.
Click to expand...

You just need to keep the cover as flat as possible when you tap the dents out. A small hammer head that is able to get in between the recesses would be great. Just hold it securely to the flat surface and tap them out as best you can. Having them a little low would be better then tapping them out too far and creating domes rather then low spots. A small ball peen hammer would work great as mentioned. I suggested the wood as an alternative to having something small enough to get in there with. Primer should be used anytime you get down to bare metal, or especially if you use plastic filler. You just need to be able to fill the sand scratches more then anything, primer does that really well. Sand the primer with some 400, maybe finish it with a bit of 600 and then spray away. It really is pretty easy, and that piece is a good part to practice on.
Click to expand...
 
Picked up replacement crank today

Picked up replacement crank today

Went to my mail box and picked up the crank and a few other packages.

Charlie, you did an awesome job packaging the crank, very nice job.

I have dropped it off to have it checked out to make sure it's running true after the shipping.

Also picked up the fender Nejeff sent, again nice job packing the part, it's almost too good to paint as the chrome is in excellent condition.

I also received the ebay GS1000G fender and I will probably have that one painted in the Cooley colours.

Lots of work planned for this long Canada Day Weekend.

Larry, I know you posted the colours for the Cooley paint scheme, but I can't find them, can you post them again please.
 
Painting my Nuts & Bolts

Painting my Nuts & Bolts

Thought I would give this a go and see how it works out. The first batch worked out OK so I'm going for it and doing a bigger batch this time.
These are the bolts from the upper crank case and 2 of the front caliper bolts.

Here's the before


Here's the after



Then I will cure them at 200F for 1 hour, I set the timer for 3 hrs at 300F to clean the smoker first, then I'll program it for 1hr at 200F.



I had tried using a hair dryer to cure some parts but got them too hot and the paint blistered so I'll stick to the smoker as the temp is very accurate, and it shuts down after the programmed time and holds at 140F until I get to shut it off manually.

Edit, just took them out of the smoker and installed the caliper bolts, absolutely no marring on the bolt head when tightening them down, worked really well.
They look like they have been cadmium plated.
 
Last edited:
More progress

More progress

Got the front calipers rebuilt and back together, just waiting on the Rennsport SS lines which should be here next week.

Also if you look closely you may be able to see one of the caliper bolts is painted with the chrome paint, that was my first couple I tried and it looks pretty good to me and didn't markup very much when I tightened it up.



Also got the front fenders today, one chrome one and one painted one, so I mocked up the painted one and it sits much straighter than the original one.
I dropped off the fender and a few other parts to get painted, I will get the rest of the major parts painted in the winter when the painter is not so busy, he is the same guy that painted BigD 83's GS650 Tank.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=209939

 
A Little Bit Of Chrome

A Little Bit Of Chrome

Thought I would see how the chrome fender looked on the bike, when I was installing it I had a flash back from when I owned a skunk in 78, guess I'd polished that front fender a few times and it took me back in time for a few seconds.

Here how it looks on the Cooley, not sure I could ever get used to it.
It's in pretty good shape and way to good to have it painted.
Not sure what I'll do with it now but maybe I'll keep it as a spare or if anyone needs a nice chrome fender for a GS1000 just let me know.



 
Larry, I know you posted the colours for the Cooley paint scheme, but I can't find them, can you post them again please.[/QUOTE]

The colors I use are both Ford colors. The PPG paint is called "St. Lawrence White" and "Bahama Blue". If the paint store can't reference those, may I suggest having them scan your side cover to give them the formula to match the existing parts.

You're right about the chrome fender, it's too nice to sand blast for paint..do the painted one..:D I certainly would hang on to the original, too. It looks to me to be very repairable.
 
nvr2old said:
Larry, I know you posted the colours for the Cooley paint scheme, but I can't find them, can you post them again please.
Click to expand...

The colors I use are both Ford colors. The PPG paint is called "St. Lawrence White" and "Bahama Blue". If the paint store can't reference those, may I suggest having them scan your side cover to give them the formula to match the existing parts.

You're right about the chrome fender, it's too nice to sand blast for paint..do the painted one..:D I certainly would hang on to the original, too. It looks to me to be very repairable.[/QUOTE]

Thanks Larry, I suggested to Leedam who is painting my parts, that I could get the colours and he just gave me that look, :-# and then went on to explain that he has worked in the lab for BASF since he was 18 years old and that he can eyeball any automotive paint and get it spot on, no scanners or computers for him.
He's a good guy and he also told me how he managed to save the decals on BigD 83's GS650 tank, pure skill, no fancy BASF products, and he may do the same on my tank when he finishes the rest of my parts this winter.

I saw some of his work that was finished in his shop and it was stunning. so I feel pretty comfortable and fortunate to have him paint my bike,

Thanks for the info Larry, maybe help some-one else.
 
Front Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild

Front Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild

I have spent hours on this and made almost no progress, finally managed to get the circlip out and then another day of soaking to get the washer out, now I'm about out of options as the plunger will not come out.
I will take it to my shop tomorrow to drill and tap the plunger and hopefilly pull or pry it out.

The rear one was a breeze compared to this one.

 
Cooking more parts

Cooking more parts

Got another batch of pieces cured in the smoker today, the screws and bolts are very time consuming and I wonder if it's more economical just to buy new bolts and screws but I'm committed now so this is what I'm doing.
I also added the engine brackets and the horn bracket to the mix.

 
nvr2old said:
The colors I use are both Ford colors. The PPG paint is called "St. Lawrence White" and "Bahama Blue".
Click to expand...
I couldn't find the paint code for St Lawrence white. Bahama Blue's paint code is 'MR'
 
Dale...somewhere when I first got the Cooley and left your shop, I stopped in Standish and had Trombleys scan the original paint from the bike.

Somewhere, I think I had posted the info here. Cant recall the thread name though since it was so long ago.
 
Chrome front fender

Chrome front fender

rustybronco said:
If you even think of painting that fender, every GS1000E owner will haunt you until the end of days... ;)
Click to expand...

These fenders must be rare based on how many PM's I got wanting it, what's the deal with these?

I spent about 2 hours cleaning it, including the underside, and then buffed out a couple of very minor rust pits on the lower rear, and it came up very nice.

The fender has 2 very small dents on the front left and should be possible for someone with skill to get them out, but they are hardly obvious unless you get the light right.

Glad I purchased the other GS1000G fender other wise I would of had a bunch of GS1000E owners haunting me till the end of time.:D
 
Painting the engine

Painting the engine

Looking for a bit of progress after doing 6 hours of chores (the hottub had shut down and would not restart, the lawn mower was burning up one of it's drive belts for some reason and the freezer was icing up) plus all the social obligations on a long weekend, so I pulled out my stash of VHT SP127 this morning and got busy.





 
How soon do you need some concrete answers? I cant find my thread or any posts, but I do know where the scan are at the storage unit. I can take pics of the mix code labels in the next few days and post them if you wish.
 
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