S
SVSooke
Guest
Hmmm...........I missed the Suzi with the cam chain on the side like that.If you want to send that cover over I'll straighten it,replace the stripping and repaint if you'd like.Those cover are pretty hard to get.
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http://s1071.photobucket.com/user/KiwiCanucker/media/165_zps22d441e4.jpg.html
Aw, heck..just flip it over onto a smooth, flat, hard surface and take a hammer and a small block of wood and lightly tap the dents back out using the flat surface as a dolly, and then skim coat it with a bit of plastic filler if needed, prime, paint..badda bing, badda boom..![]()
Thanks Larry, so the piece of wood is the trick, I may as well have been using a centre punch, that's how it looked when I was done.
Actually I used a small picture framers hammer as it fitted between the groves, and used my vise as the base, I ended up with lots of little bumps, I will try the block of wood method as that makes sense.
Also I suspect I may need to use some filler.
I think my point is well made, you guys who are very good at this think of this as easy.
My challenge is being able to tell when something is prepared well enough and I go ahead and paint the piece only to find it's far from perfect.
It's the thin metal that gives me the most challenges as I seem to do OK with painting heavier pieces, like engine brackets and cailpers etc.
Larry, you mentioned priming before paint, when I touched up my frame I didn't use primer, just sanded the damaged areas back to bare metal with 220, 320 and finished it with 600 grit, and then painted with VHT Roll bar & Chassis Gloss Black.
Will the paint stick OK or should I have used primer?
I am curing it with a blow dryer and on really hot days leaving it out in the sun.
Hmmm...........I missed the Suzi with the cam chain on the side like that.If you want to send that cover over I'll straighten it,replace the stripping and repaint if you'd like.Those cover are pretty hard to get.
Thanks Larry, so the piece of wood is the trick, I may as well have been using a centre punch, that's how it looked when I was done.
Actually I used a small picture framers hammer as it fitted between the groves, and used my vise as the base, I ended up with lots of little bumps, I will try the block of wood method as that makes sense.
Also I suspect I may need to use some filler.
I think my point is well made, you guys who are very good at this think of this as easy.
My challenge is being able to tell when something is prepared well enough and I go ahead and paint the piece only to find it's far from perfect.
It's the thin metal that gives me the most challenges as I seem to do OK with painting heavier pieces, like engine brackets and cailpers etc.
Larry, you mentioned priming before paint, when I touched up my frame I didn't use primer, just sanded the damaged areas back to bare metal with 220, 320 and finished it with 600 grit, and then painted with VHT Roll bar & Chassis Gloss Black.
Will the paint stick OK or should I have used primer?
I am curing it with a blow dryer and on really hot days leaving it out in the sun.
You just need to keep the cover as flat as possible when you tap the dents out. A small hammer head that is able to get in between the recesses would be great. Just hold it securely to the flat surface and tap them out as best you can. Having them a little low would be better then tapping them out too far and creating domes rather then low spots. A small ball peen hammer would work great as mentioned. I suggested the wood as an alternative to having something small enough to get in there with. Primer should be used anytime you get down to bare metal, or especially if you use plastic filler. You just need to be able to fill the sand scratches more then anything, primer does that really well. Sand the primer with some 400, maybe finish it with a bit of 600 and then spray away. It really is pretty easy, and that piece is a good part to practice on.







Larry, I know you posted the colours for the Cooley paint scheme, but I can't find them, can you post them again please.


Also picked up the fender Nejeff sent, again nice job packing the part, it's almost too good to paint as the chrome is in excellent condition.
If you even think of painting that fender, every GS1000E owner will haunt you until the end of days...It's in pretty good shape and way to good to have it painted.
I couldn't find the paint code for St Lawrence white. Bahama Blue's paint code is 'MR'The colors I use are both Ford colors. The PPG paint is called "St. Lawrence White" and "Bahama Blue".
If you even think of painting that fender, every GS1000E owner will haunt you until the end of days...![]()



Rusted, physical damage, you name it... Hard to come by in decent shape.These fenders must be rare based on how many PM's I got wanting it, what's the deal with these?