1981 GS G Cafe Build

[Guest]

And this is the inside

 

[Guest]

The 750 amd the 850 are my first bikes with more than 1 cylinder.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I dont see a air screw on the carbs no. I am wondering what these are for. I havent seen it yet. My 750 also has them.

Those ports are for carb syncing with a gauge. While this video doesn't exactly get the job done, Urban Monk give a good idea of how it's supposed to work.

go to 3:44 in the video:

I'm sure you can find better videos of how this works if you dig around youtube just a bit.

 

[Guest]

So i finally got a quick moment to split the carbs and get the seal out This is what poped out on the other side the leaking side didnt have anything left. So when it comes to a replacement part. Do i get a o-ring or wont that work.

 

[Guest]

Will that o ring go over this item or inside the carb. I havent opened the other side

 

[Nessism]

That type of fuel Tee doesn't use O-rings, they are built into the coating. If the fit isn't snug in the carb body, you can try soaking them in gasoline to swell them up some. Or, replace them.

 

[Guest]

So ive replaced that feul T and everything is great. I put the carbs on my 750 today to check for leaks and to see how she runs. No leaks, idles good and revs all the way while in neutral.

now im having a problem with my 750. Yesterday on my way to work i felt a struggle getting into first gear but she made it all the way to work. When i wanted to leave work she started fine reved fine but she wont go anywhere. I thought maybe theres a carb problem and im not running on all 4 cylinders. I checked my plugs the outside 2 are burning fine the middle 2 i have 1 running rich and one running lean. Ive changed the coil packs ive checked the spark. She starts revs and drives the same with both the 750 or 850s carbs.

So when i drive i experience no power she doesnt want to go higher than 4000-5000 rps while in any gear. She stutters her way foward at a slow pace.

Is it my clutch thats gone bad or do both my carbs need to be synched?

 

[Guest]

Or cdi perhaps?

 

[Guest]

only has 2 wires coming out

 

[Nessism]

So when i drive i experience no power she doesnt want to go higher than 4000-5000 rps while in any gear. She stutters her way foward at a slow pace.

Is it my clutch thats gone bad or do both my carbs need to be synched?

If the clutch was slipping, the revs would shoot up, but the bike wouldn't move fast, or at all. And carb sync won't cause the issue described.

Sounds like a fueling issue. I'd check to see that you have good fuel flow out of the petcock, and that the carb bowls are full. Also, check your points. I don't think your bike has electronic ignition.

 

[Guest]

Is there any forums on points here. Ive got a rough work scedule this week ill only have thursday morning to work on the bike. Shes standing at home for the time being.

 

[Guest]

any advice......

 

[Guest]

Ive done some quick research but alot of it im still uncertain about. So i let the bike idle. Then i took of the spark plug caps 1 at a time. If i take off cylinder 1 or 4 the bike stops running. If i take of cylinder 2 or 3 she still idles. Heres a picture of the points for plug 2 and 3. First thing i noticed is that its not sitting flush. Second is just some build up but its the same as 1,4

 

[Guest]

I havent found a service manual yet does anyone know what the gap should be when i have it on the T. The gap on 2,3 is basically double the size of 1,4

 

[Guest]

This is 1,4 on T wich seems the right size gap. I dont want just set 2,3 to the same current gap as 1,4. I dont have a filler guage in the garage so I cant tell what the exact gap is at the moment.

 

[Nessism]

https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/

 

[Suzukian]

You really need to get a set of feeler gauges. From the side of the pic, the points look like they may be burnt. This could clean up with a point file if it isn't pitted too bad. Looking at the screws, invest in new ones, they are mauled and it will be easier to work on the points if you can use the screws to give a slight tension when adjusting them. Google the gap settings for the points. You should Google everything first before you even ask. This will save you much time, and you can better answers, and your questions will become more involved, unless you fix the problem. Google is your friend when it comes to this stuff.

 

[Guest]

So i fiddled as much as i could from last night almost right through. There was a stage where i had no spark then i got spark back on 1 and 4 now ive got spark on all 4 but weak spark on the 1 cylinder. Took her for a test run. She can rev till 6000rpm but still has no power.

 

[Guest]

So i got the feeler guage and set it to the correct gap. There was slight spark coming of the 1 point but once i set it correctly no more of that. By slight spark i mean it was still arching and didnt send spark to the plug*

it still runs bad. I was wondering if those condensors* are allowed to touch each other. I took them off and tested them with a multimeter and they are good. When i put them back after testing them i left a gap between them and when i wanted to test if it was still throwing out spark. As i hit the starter buton she instantly started. No delay.

then i put the cover back on to try test drive. As i put the cover on i noticed its pushing on the bottom condensor causing them to make contact again. After i put the cover on she took a few seconds to start and disnt run properly.

 

[Guest]

I have come to the conclusion that i need new points. Thanks to a few videos of urban monk