L
landshark
Guest
The GS1000's like mine have the choke cable come up through the triple clamp/steering stem, maybe you are able to do the same thing?
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The GS1000's like mine have the choke cable come up through the triple clamp/steering stem, maybe you are able to do the same thing?
G
Guest
Guest
I had actually thought about that early on, but I'm pretty sure the 450 stem isn't hollow so I don't think I could just try for a 1000's headstock bolt or anything.
I'm thinking along the lines of the later model GSXR left controls as they have a choke lever on there.
I should be able to fabricate a bracket that goes directly on top of the left carb's diaphragm cover and by removing the choke lever I should be able to connect the choke cable directly (with a fabricated adaptor) onto the choke actuator instead.
G
Guest
Guest
Got a favourable response from Slipstream Performance this morning, looks like I can get the O ring chain, a matching front sprocket to my rear, and the K&N pods all for a reasonable price plus I get my 10% discount :dancing:
Will order them next week after pay day...
Now if only the igntion components would hurry up and get here...
Will order them next week after pay day...
Now if only the igntion components would hurry up and get here...
Hey Pete - might be too late, but I found this little nugget today:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5442
Looks interesting
G
Guest
Guest
Yeah I had to go peek, but no go for us I'm afraid, and not sure on how it would go with our mechanical advance either.
On another note, my dad's talking about giving me his old welder... all I know is it's huge and is on a trolley and it still works... could be another interesting way to injure myself...
On another note, my dad's talking about giving me his old welder... all I know is it's huge and is on a trolley and it still works... could be another interesting way to injure myself...
L
landshark
Guest
I've got a stick welder if you are ever in need.
G
Guest
Guest
Cheers, that's good to know!
At the moment I have no specific need to have a welder, but it could be handy depending on what I need to do with the seat pan and choke actuator.
At the moment I have no specific need to have a welder, but it could be handy depending on what I need to do with the seat pan and choke actuator.
L
landshark
Guest
If you are interested in going the way of the steering stem choke check yours to see if it is hollow and i will measure mine up.
L
landshark
Guest
I had too much time on the internet today, but at least this should make us all feel good about what our bikes must be worth!
Imagine what a fully rebuilt 450 must be worth?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1980-Suzuki-...&otn=4&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=7583619836608648727
Imagine what a fully rebuilt 450 must be worth?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1980-Suzuki-...&otn=4&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=7583619836608648727
G
Guest
Guest
I'll have a think about it and see what GSXR controls are worth too. My controls are a little not so nice and new anyway.
Mind you, I need to take the instrument cluster back off to lube the guages and I need to take the top triple clamp off to swap the headlight ears, so while I'm there I might as well check. Probably won't get to that until I sort the ignition though, providing the modules show up tomorrow.
When I lived in Burpengary there as an '80 450E for sale freshly rebuilt for $2500... I was sorely tempted considering I hadn't even been able to split the cases at that point
G
Guest
Guest
Express post parcel waiting at the PO Box for me today containing this:
Which contained these:
Jaycar delivery nice and quick, but no HEI modules yet.
I also discovered I have some heatsink compound:
So, even though my old college project doesn't work in terms of providing 12 volts DC, it does still provide me some testing facilities if I use an external power source.
So, cleaned it out and got it ready:
Dug out my old soldering iron, PCB stand, and solder:
Then stripped and tinned the wires from the OEM ignitor connector:
Hooked the ignitor connector leads to the connection posts on my board, and as the first way I'm testing is like the GS1000G setup, I'm leaving the black/white common lead from the pickup coils disconnected:
Which contained these:
Jaycar delivery nice and quick, but no HEI modules yet.
I also discovered I have some heatsink compound:
So, even though my old college project doesn't work in terms of providing 12 volts DC, it does still provide me some testing facilities if I use an external power source.
So, cleaned it out and got it ready:
Dug out my old soldering iron, PCB stand, and solder:
Then stripped and tinned the wires from the OEM ignitor connector:
Hooked the ignitor connector leads to the connection posts on my board, and as the first way I'm testing is like the GS1000G setup, I'm leaving the black/white common lead from the pickup coils disconnected:
G
Guest
Guest
And popped the resistors and diodes in waiting for the HEI modules:
I also noted down the correct colours for the pickup coils compared to the GS1000G colours:
And, finally, I figure I should be able to mount a plate in here above the battery to bolt all the electrics to, and it should allow me to have the HEI modules on top bolted to the heatsink below which, with no airbox, should provide a nice airflow to keep them cool:
Just need to get a sheet of metal, will be very rudimentary but should be effective.
Fingers crossed the HEI modules rock up tomorrow, but I'm not holding my breath given the "speedy" responses from the seller initially...
I also noted down the correct colours for the pickup coils compared to the GS1000G colours:
And, finally, I figure I should be able to mount a plate in here above the battery to bolt all the electrics to, and it should allow me to have the HEI modules on top bolted to the heatsink below which, with no airbox, should provide a nice airflow to keep them cool:
Just need to get a sheet of metal, will be very rudimentary but should be effective.
Fingers crossed the HEI modules rock up tomorrow, but I'm not holding my breath given the "speedy" responses from the seller initially...
D
davidduarte
Guest
what would you use to lube the gauges, and (perhaps more importantly) how?
G
Guest
Guest
I've done a search on here and anything from some high RPM grease to WD40 has been used to good effect.
Apparently spraying some through the cable connection with the guages inverted should help, but if it doesn't help, it's possible to disassemble and lube the mechanism directly.
Apparently spraying some through the cable connection with the guages inverted should help, but if it doesn't help, it's possible to disassemble and lube the mechanism directly.
L
landshark
Guest
I believe Inox is superior to WD40 if you are going that way Pete (That may just be personal preference tho?)
G
Guest
Guest
Hmmm never tried Inox, just always seem to have WD40 handy is the main reason I use it. I'll have to keep an eye out and get some next time I'm somewhere...
G
Guest
Guest
Grrrr some eBay sellers annoy me! Ordered the HEI modules on Friday and paid Friday evening with Paypal, and they posted them today! I find that a little poor even if they are cheap items... oh well... might get them tomorrow, more likely Friday or Monday, so definitely no startup is gonna happen this weekend.
I did duck down to the garage for a bit tonight and started version 3 of my cardboard exhaust mock up.
Best pic I can get on the bike while holding it as I'm basically leaning on the car bonnet to take it:
And sitting on the bench to give a better idea of how it sits:
So, routing on the left side is a lot easier, doesn't interfere with the dip stick, and I've also managed to get both headers a reasonably even 28 inches which is excellent.
A 24 inch pipe to a muffler gives the target measurements, might get that done tomorrow night depending on the HEI modules.
My only current concern with this layout is still heat related. If I exhaust wrap, that should take care of it generating too much extra heat, but the pipe across the front of the cylinders will block some air flow there.
I wonder if that's too much blockage or if it will be ok? There's also going to be a little blocking on the left side, but not much...
Any thoughts on the air flow anyone?
I did duck down to the garage for a bit tonight and started version 3 of my cardboard exhaust mock up.
Best pic I can get on the bike while holding it as I'm basically leaning on the car bonnet to take it:
And sitting on the bench to give a better idea of how it sits:
So, routing on the left side is a lot easier, doesn't interfere with the dip stick, and I've also managed to get both headers a reasonably even 28 inches which is excellent.
A 24 inch pipe to a muffler gives the target measurements, might get that done tomorrow night depending on the HEI modules.
My only current concern with this layout is still heat related. If I exhaust wrap, that should take care of it generating too much extra heat, but the pipe across the front of the cylinders will block some air flow there.
I wonder if that's too much blockage or if it will be ok? There's also going to be a little blocking on the left side, but not much...
Any thoughts on the air flow anyone?
J
jolo
Guest
Hi Pete (not Paul - haha!)
Just finally got caught up on all 68 pages, great thread!
Unfortuanately I'm too much of a noob to have any suggestions, but your bike is looking fantastic.
Definately making me feel motivated to get my 400 in top shape.
Good luck, and I'm looking forward to seeing the end result!
Just finally got caught up on all 68 pages, great thread!
Unfortuanately I'm too much of a noob to have any suggestions, but your bike is looking fantastic.
Definately making me feel motivated to get my 400 in top shape.
Good luck, and I'm looking forward to seeing the end result!
G
Guest
Guest
Cheers Jolo, it is a bit of a marathon read isn't it? Glad you survived it
Thanks for the kudos and you'll do well with your 400 for sure.
