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I was rearended on my then two month old ES by one of those. Looks really nice.
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1981 Kawasaki GPz550: Restoration
- Thread starter srsupertrap
- Start date
I sat out the 2015 season sidelined with a rotator cuff tear which required surgery back in October. I can say you loose interest in motorcycles when you cannot lift your armJust before I went in for surgery I sent out the entire set of Gpz bodywork to get repainted with an old codger on the south side. I will post pics when they return, hopefully worth the wait.
Fresh tin work will be icing on the cake! Can't wait for some new photos...and a video showing the first start!
Finally found an original 81 GPz550 seat, I flipped a Honda ST1100 bag I found on C/list last year for a song and it turned into
a sought after GPz550 seat. Very similar to GS1000 C & E seats but lot smaller.
This was Jeff Tuttobene's GPz550 seat. I ran across his Ebay listing for a set of those Mikuni 27 S/B's and decided to send him an email. Jeff was sponsored by Pops Yoshimura in the 550 1980 AFM box stock and superstreet classes back in the 1980s, raced Willow Springs and still has a trick 81 GPz. After a couple of conversations, he was willing to depart with his original seat . . . Thx Jeff
PS: Are we limited to number of Pics we can insert? I keep getting error messages . . . doing something wrong!
a sought after GPz550 seat. Very similar to GS1000 C & E seats but lot smaller.
This was Jeff Tuttobene's GPz550 seat. I ran across his Ebay listing for a set of those Mikuni 27 S/B's and decided to send him an email. Jeff was sponsored by Pops Yoshimura in the 550 1980 AFM box stock and superstreet classes back in the 1980s, raced Willow Springs and still has a trick 81 GPz. After a couple of conversations, he was willing to depart with his original seat . . . Thx Jeff
PS: Are we limited to number of Pics we can insert? I keep getting error messages . . . doing something wrong!
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Ed,
I still have to figure the why the headlamp indicator light is "On" when the headlight is functioning properly. Jeff Tuttobene suggested/told me I am missing a ground connection which makes sense. . . .just gotta find it. To answer your question, I will break it in quick in the garage. IF it carburets and accepts throttle, I will blip it between 2.5 - 4K in the garage I will put a fan in front of it too keep things cool.
Woohoo parts back from the painter, picked up in the rain so kinda blotchy. Moving forward though
I still have to figure the why the headlamp indicator light is "On" when the headlight is functioning properly. Jeff Tuttobene suggested/told me I am missing a ground connection which makes sense. . . .just gotta find it. To answer your question, I will break it in quick in the garage. IF it carburets and accepts throttle, I will blip it between 2.5 - 4K in the garage I will put a fan in front of it too keep things cool.
Woohoo parts back from the painter, picked up in the rain so kinda blotchy. Moving forward though
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Steve, the paint looks AWESOME.
Read this about breaking in the engine...http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
You can NOT do this in your garage. Get the bike running half way decently and then hit the road. I'm of the belief that those motortune guys are a little extreme in their point of view, but I do agree with their methodology of using a good bit of throttle from early in the life of the new rings. My approach is to get the bike out on the road in a "city" driving cycle, and use lots of throttle as you blast from stoplight to stoplight.
Good luck and can't wait for your full ride report.
Read this about breaking in the engine...http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
You can NOT do this in your garage. Get the bike running half way decently and then hit the road. I'm of the belief that those motortune guys are a little extreme in their point of view, but I do agree with their methodology of using a good bit of throttle from early in the life of the new rings. My approach is to get the bike out on the road in a "city" driving cycle, and use lots of throttle as you blast from stoplight to stoplight.
Good luck and can't wait for your full ride report.
Ed,
Thanks for sending me the link on the break in article. I might not subscribe to their exact method but the GPz won't be babied once it gets on the road which brings up the question what's taking so long.
I have run into some electrical problems with something called the Reserved Lighting device (RLD) which lights a headlamp indicator light in the tachometer face when either the Hi/Low beam is out. Problem is both the Hi/Low beam work. The manual on the GPz550 forum does not have a color coded wired diagram so I couldn't trace any wires. I got a color coded wire diagram from J. Tuttobene (MiniGunz.com) in CA. in the mail and finally got to T/S the RLD circuit. There are six wires to this RLD and I verified continuity between 5 out of 6 wires; the six wire was a grounfd which is shared by the entire bike. I thought this would be an easy fix & bypassed the ground in the main wiring harness with a parallel ground wire but that didn't work either.
J. Tuttobene was nice enough to send me a spare RLD from his 1980 KZ550 which shares the same RLD. A little bit more waiting for US Mail etc. Got it last week, swapped it out and it still didn't work. I sent it back and then started questioning everything I had done considering the whole wiring harness was removed for refurb & cleaning but the harness was in remarkably good/excellent condition. I only noticed late last week the tachometer background lights were not working when the ignition switch was switched On. So I have been spending a lot of time in the garage with the multimeter trying to figure what's what.
If anyone can tell me what 81 GPz550 tach indicator lights are suppose to come "On" that would be helpful. The tachometer face has an Oil Pressure, Headlamp & Stoplamp warning light. That's the current state but I am narrowing it down . . .
Thanks for sending me the link on the break in article. I might not subscribe to their exact method but the GPz won't be babied once it gets on the road which brings up the question what's taking so long.
I have run into some electrical problems with something called the Reserved Lighting device (RLD) which lights a headlamp indicator light in the tachometer face when either the Hi/Low beam is out. Problem is both the Hi/Low beam work. The manual on the GPz550 forum does not have a color coded wired diagram so I couldn't trace any wires. I got a color coded wire diagram from J. Tuttobene (MiniGunz.com) in CA. in the mail and finally got to T/S the RLD circuit. There are six wires to this RLD and I verified continuity between 5 out of 6 wires; the six wire was a grounfd which is shared by the entire bike. I thought this would be an easy fix & bypassed the ground in the main wiring harness with a parallel ground wire but that didn't work either.
J. Tuttobene was nice enough to send me a spare RLD from his 1980 KZ550 which shares the same RLD. A little bit more waiting for US Mail etc. Got it last week, swapped it out and it still didn't work. I sent it back and then started questioning everything I had done considering the whole wiring harness was removed for refurb & cleaning but the harness was in remarkably good/excellent condition. I only noticed late last week the tachometer background lights were not working when the ignition switch was switched On. So I have been spending a lot of time in the garage with the multimeter trying to figure what's what.
If anyone can tell me what 81 GPz550 tach indicator lights are suppose to come "On" that would be helpful. The tachometer face has an Oil Pressure, Headlamp & Stoplamp warning light. That's the current state but I am narrowing it down . . .
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Hey Steve,
Good to see you are getting busy on the bike again...
I was just reviewing the FSM and there is a nice section about the RLD system and how to check it. I assume you already know this but just in case...
I think my 750 has the same feature but I've never checked it's function. Let me know if you need me to check something...
Good to see you are getting busy on the bike again...
I was just reviewing the FSM and there is a nice section about the RLD system and how to check it. I assume you already know this but just in case...
I think my 750 has the same feature but I've never checked it's function. Let me know if you need me to check something...
Hey Ed,
Got some time to T/S the tachometer lighting this weekend. My tachometer lighting problems are in no order
Starting with a color coded wiring diagram
I checked the continuity from the headlamp connector back throught the main harness. I copied the results onto the index card and like previously stated I verified continuity in 5 of 6 wires.
This is the other end with the main harness plugs into the Reserve Lighting device under the right side cover.
This is what it looked like all Saturday afternoon: Combo of scratching my head, swearing at it and running down the battery. What didn't make sense was the fact the only open wire was the ground (Blk/w Yellow) from the headlight to the RLD connector at the battery. The grounds are linked together and had continuity from the frame grounding point to the negative terminal on the battery and vice versa.
On Sunday, I bypassed the missing ground from the RLD connector in the headlight bucket headlight and attached it to newly sanded frame ground ( entire frame was powder coated). The good news was the tachometer lights illuminated when the ignition switch was switched to On. The Bad was headlight warning light still had the same problem.
Next I verified the fuse box connections because I couldn't think of anything else to check. Fuse box looked good and I verified continuity from the RLD connector back at the battery.
Then it finally dawned on me, I installed all new tachometer light bulbs in 2014. When I reassembled the tachometer I didn't have a wiring diagram to verify the proper placement of bulbs. Armed with this likely scenario, I disconnected the wire to the oil pressure sending unit in the oil pan. Once disconnected the headlight warning indicator lamp in tachometer went out. Although a dumb ass move, I was happy to discover I had switched the location of oil pressure warning light and put in the headlight warning indicator position and vice versa.
I couldn't even remember how hard the tachometer was to remove but it ended up being pretty easy.
While I was at it, I put heat shrink around that dangling yellow wire.
Once on the bench, I swapped the position of the oil pressure warning and headlight warning light, verified continuity and quickly buttoned it up for an ops check. Once back together, when the ignition switched to the On position the red oil pressure warning light is illuminated. I assume it goes out once the engine starts after 27 years. With the RLD reconnected front & rear, the headlamp indicator light comes on when I pulled the H4 bulb out of the socket.
That leaves the Stop lamp Warning light indicator. I read in the GPz service manual when the taillight bulb is removed from the socket and you squeeze either brake the brake warning light flashes On & Off . . . . which it does Think that works correctly.
I reinstalled the taillight bulb and installed the lens. Know when the either brake is applied the Stop lamp Warning light indicator in the tachometer comes on. Not sure if that is normal though?
Anyone know?
Got some time to T/S the tachometer lighting this weekend. My tachometer lighting problems are in no order
- Headlamp Warning light indicator (part of Reserve Lighting Device circuit ) comes On when the ignition is switched On.
- Tachometer background lights (2X) inoperative
- Stoplamp Warning light comes on when you hit the either front or rear brake
Starting with a color coded wiring diagram
I checked the continuity from the headlamp connector back throught the main harness. I copied the results onto the index card and like previously stated I verified continuity in 5 of 6 wires.
This is the other end with the main harness plugs into the Reserve Lighting device under the right side cover.
This is what it looked like all Saturday afternoon: Combo of scratching my head, swearing at it and running down the battery. What didn't make sense was the fact the only open wire was the ground (Blk/w Yellow) from the headlight to the RLD connector at the battery. The grounds are linked together and had continuity from the frame grounding point to the negative terminal on the battery and vice versa.
On Sunday, I bypassed the missing ground from the RLD connector in the headlight bucket headlight and attached it to newly sanded frame ground ( entire frame was powder coated). The good news was the tachometer lights illuminated when the ignition switch was switched to On. The Bad was headlight warning light still had the same problem.
Next I verified the fuse box connections because I couldn't think of anything else to check. Fuse box looked good and I verified continuity from the RLD connector back at the battery.
Then it finally dawned on me, I installed all new tachometer light bulbs in 2014. When I reassembled the tachometer I didn't have a wiring diagram to verify the proper placement of bulbs. Armed with this likely scenario, I disconnected the wire to the oil pressure sending unit in the oil pan. Once disconnected the headlight warning indicator lamp in tachometer went out. Although a dumb ass move, I was happy to discover I had switched the location of oil pressure warning light and put in the headlight warning indicator position and vice versa.
I couldn't even remember how hard the tachometer was to remove but it ended up being pretty easy.
While I was at it, I put heat shrink around that dangling yellow wire.
Once on the bench, I swapped the position of the oil pressure warning and headlight warning light, verified continuity and quickly buttoned it up for an ops check. Once back together, when the ignition switched to the On position the red oil pressure warning light is illuminated. I assume it goes out once the engine starts after 27 years. With the RLD reconnected front & rear, the headlamp indicator light comes on when I pulled the H4 bulb out of the socket.
That leaves the Stop lamp Warning light indicator. I read in the GPz service manual when the taillight bulb is removed from the socket and you squeeze either brake the brake warning light flashes On & Off . . . . which it does
Think that works correctly.I reinstalled the taillight bulb and installed the lens. Know when the either brake is applied the Stop lamp Warning light indicator in the tachometer comes on. Not sure if that is normal though?
Anyone know?
Thanks Big T for confirming the Stop Lamp Warning operation! That resolves electrical system operation issues. Now I can install the tank & body pieces!
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I dont think its so much a warning light..rather a confirmation light that lets you see that the lamp is in fact working. I wouldnt get worried unless your braking and the light doesnt illuminate.
I would agree. Its a good design that the warning light blinks when the brake light is not working. On the other hand not much value seeing the light comes on when you apply the brakes. Important thing its operating correctly.
I have been installing the gas tank, reassembling the fairing and installing the fender etc. with pictures to follow 
. I was wondering would anyone have the following items in their used parts bin i.e KZ550 parts.
Here is a picture of a stock GPZ550 IC Ignitor (not mine) located under the right side cover.
I have a Dyna S Electronic ignition installed on my GPz550 with the wiring (Grey) shown below. When installing the Dyna S, the stock IC Ignitor is discarded and the Dyna S plugs directly in the main wiring harness. I would like to clean up the wiring by using a scrapped IC ignitor connector which plugs into the harness. My idea is to splice the Dyna S wiring into the IC Ignitor connector so the two halves plug together and have a professional appearance.
Note: IC Ignitor are expensive so this only applies if you have a fried one.
Next I have been searching for a battery box hold down bracket. They were used on KZ550s from 1980 thru 1984. I have had no luck on Ebay so perhaps someone has one lying around? Appreciate any help.
. I was wondering would anyone have the following items in their used parts bin i.e KZ550 parts.Here is a picture of a stock GPZ550 IC Ignitor (not mine) located under the right side cover.
I have a Dyna S Electronic ignition installed on my GPz550 with the wiring (Grey) shown below. When installing the Dyna S, the stock IC Ignitor is discarded and the Dyna S plugs directly in the main wiring harness. I would like to clean up the wiring by using a scrapped IC ignitor connector which plugs into the harness. My idea is to splice the Dyna S wiring into the IC Ignitor connector so the two halves plug together and have a professional appearance.
Note: IC Ignitor are expensive so this only applies if you have a fried one.
Next I have been searching for a battery box hold down bracket. They were used on KZ550s from 1980 thru 1984. I have had no luck on Ebay so perhaps someone has one lying around? Appreciate any help.
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That looks like it.
Some pics from last weekend. Installing side cover emblems
Put a dab of RTV on later to secure those clips
Last time GPz was registered . . . .1994
Gas Cap: Emblem from Z1A Kawasaki in Albuquerque, NM . . . I will keep this for historical sake
Two repainted fairings to choose from . .. Not Never2old quality but its okay. I sure don't have time to paint
Fairing assembly: New OEM rubber grommets, plastic washers with socket Pan Head hex screws to secure the plexiglass fairing.
Lots of rubbing compound to cut through decades of grime, UV and who knows what else
Repainted this fairing bracket, not much paint on that from the factory
Fairing brackets ready to be assembled
Some pics from last weekend. Installing side cover emblems
Put a dab of RTV on later to secure those clips
Last time GPz was registered . . . .1994
Gas Cap: Emblem from Z1A Kawasaki in Albuquerque, NM . . . I will keep this for historical sake
Two repainted fairings to choose from . .. Not Never2old quality but its okay. I sure don't have time to paint
Fairing assembly: New OEM rubber grommets, plastic washers with socket Pan Head hex screws to secure the plexiglass fairing.
Lots of rubbing compound to cut through decades of grime, UV and who knows what else
Repainted this fairing bracket, not much paint on that from the factory
Fairing brackets ready to be assembled
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Lower Fairing bracket which bolts to the front brake union.
Original rubber gasket is very thick and was still in great condition
Upper Fairing Brackets. The fit of this fairing is slightly better than my Racer Supply GS1000S fairing but left a lot to be desired.
Next got the tank installed & tail section
Lights work correctly
Murphy's Law strikes: While installing the front fender, I loosen the axle nut, brake caliper bolts and find the PO ham fisted bolt tightening technique has stripped the threads for Upper Lt Brake caliper bolt. The The M10 x 1.25 bolt is torqued to 22 Ft-Lbs. . . . must have torqued to 100 Ft-Lbs to strip it
Original rubber gasket is very thick and was still in great condition
Upper Fairing Brackets. The fit of this fairing is slightly better than my Racer Supply GS1000S fairing but left a lot to be desired.
Next got the tank installed & tail section
Lights work correctly
Murphy's Law strikes: While installing the front fender, I loosen the axle nut, brake caliper bolts and find the PO ham fisted bolt tightening technique has stripped the threads for Upper Lt Brake caliper bolt. The The M10 x 1.25 bolt is torqued to 22 Ft-Lbs. . . . must have torqued to 100 Ft-Lbs to strip it
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This is amazing! Even better in person, looks like a new bike on the showroom floor! Terrific work Steve.
