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1981 Kawasaki KZ750 Resurrection

Been keeping up with this resurrection since you started and have to say just impeccable as always Ed.
 
I need to get a pair of those myself.

What do think of the quality of those particular crimpers?
 
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rustybronco said:
I need to get a pair of those myself.

What do think of the quality of those particular crimpers?
Click to expand...

Love um Dale. Can't say they are better quality than the $10 Harbor Freight crimping pliers I also have, but the jaws have the roll over feature and they work perfectly.
 
Again, spectacular build Ed. Your threads are the most thorough and informative of anyone on here, I always take away something from everyone of your projects that I eventually use on my own. Anxiously waiting to see this little gem completed.
 
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Chassis electrical is all hooked up and working. Struggled with the turn signals; had to mod the fronts to fit since they weren't intended for this model bike. K&S brand. They look decent but are real junky on the inside (electrical socket). Couldn't get both the hazzards and turn signals to work at the same time until I changed out one of the relays. The bike came with two different types, but the signals wouldn't work properly until they were both the same. I blame the turn signals again, they must have a different impedance than the original signals. At any rate, it's all good now...

P1010741 by nessism, on Flickr

P1010740 by nessism, on Flickr

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P1010742 by nessism, on Flickr
 
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Nothing overly special going on so just took some random photos...

Preped seat pan for paint. Had to fix one crack but otherwise it's in great condition. Bead blasted the underneath side of the front fender too to remove some light rust.

P1010750 by nessism, on Flickr

P1010749 by nessism, on Flickr

P1010748 by nessism, on Flickr

P1010752 by nessism, on Flickr
 
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Last photo shows some pitted chrome. Way too much of this stuff going on (head lamp ring, various nuts and bolts, shocks, etc). Radar is up for better replacement parts from ebay...

P1010747 by nessism, on Flickr
 
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psyguy said:
Interestingly, down here the "screw together" brake lines are illegal, apparently because they are not as reliable as the crimped type :-k
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Probably because there's nothing preventing a total bonehead from putting them together with a hammer and some glue.
 
tkent02 said:
Probably because there's nothing preventing a total bonehead from putting them together with a hammer and some glue.
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Yea, there are people out there that could screw up a one car funeral!!!

There are some people out there that can turn a simple oil change, or replacement of spark plugs into a major project because of their lack of basic mechanical skills.

I had my neighbor out looking for a brass magnet after his wife dropped her ring down the sink!!!!

PRICELESS the look on the clerk's face when he asked him for one!!!
 
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Painted up the seat pan and tried to installed the Pit Replica seat cover. The cover is tight in places and loose in others. After further review I realized that I pierced it in the wrong place. The seam design sucks though since there is no choice other than to pull against the sewn seam. Kicking myself for not being more careful. Quality is not the best but the pattern does match the original really nicely.


P1010782 by nessism, on Flickr

P1010779 by nessism, on Flickr

P1010780 by nessism, on Flickr
 
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The seat cover looks good, imo, so I would be inclined to try again with the same product. Maybe try the heating method on the cover that's now ripped (as you're throwing it away anyhow) to see how feasible that is OR maybe trim the padding by 10mm or so?

Looking at the pictures again ... I'm wondering if the cover is double layered at the edges between the two rows of stitching? Or is that just cosmetic stitching?
In any case I'm thinking that piercing the fabric right on the stitching line may have caused it to rip, as the stitching already weakens the fabric in that area.
If there is a double layer at the edge then I guess that would be an ideal area where to hook it?
 
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psyguy said:
Looking at the pictures again ... I'm wondering if the cover is double layered at the edges between the two rows of stitching? Or is that just cosmetic stitching?
In any case I'm thinking that piercing the fabric right on the stitching line may have caused it to rip, as the stitching already weakens the fabric in that area.
If there is a double layer at the edge then I guess that would be an ideal area where to hook it?
Click to expand...


Yeah, on further thought, don't think I should have pierced the cover where I did. Piercing it closer to the edge will alleviate that problem, but the cover will be loose in places then.
 
I know this is a bit after the fact, but my Ex-wife used to work for a 'seating division' installing seat covers. Abet their types of seat covers are different than what you are installing but the material has to be similar. They used to throw the covers into a cabinet which heated them with steam for a few minutes before they pulled them over the seat foam. Maybe you could use your 'easy bake' paint box to do something similar.

Also, that stitching is way to close to the retaining spikes. Maybe email pit replica and see if they can drop the stitching in that area, or try adding an extra inch of foam on top of existing foam?
 
rustybronco said:
I know this is a bit after the fact, but my Ex-wife used to work for a 'seating division' installing seat covers. Abet their types of seat covers are different than what you are installing but the material has to be similar. They used to throw the covers into a cabinet which heated them with steam for a few minutes before they pulled them over the seat foam. Maybe you could use your 'easy bake' paint box to do something similar.

Also, that stitching is way to close to the retaining spikes. Maybe email pit replica and see if they can drop the stitching in that area, or try adding an extra inch of foam on top of existing foam?
Click to expand...

Hi Dale,

Yes, steam. I've been inside OEM auto seat plants before and watched them heat the covers and they have portable steam wands too, so they can apply localized heat.

Regarding the cover itself, I'm not impressed with Pit Replica's edge design methodology. Or maybe it's just my fault for not piercing the cover in the proper place. Leaning toward ordering another one and maybe having it modified to reinforce the seam.
 
Either your seat foam is collapsed or the seat cover is made wrong.
 
Just got back from the paint store. Bought some clear, basecoat, and hardener. NOT cheap. The clear is the "new" 2.1 VOC flavor. Translated that means it's low solids and thin. In other words three coats needed instead of the old two. Hum, makes one wonder if it actually results in less crap going into the air or what? At any rate, that's how it is in California these days. Took a flier on the color: bought a pint of black and a pint of dark pearl blue and had them mixed together. Going for a black look from distance, but with some pearl blue coming though when you get closer. We'll see.

Since the original paint is so chalky and tore up I'm removing as much as possible before prime. Two part epoxy for that of course. One of the side covers had a swale in it so filled it with body mud. Good fun...

P1010790 by nessism, on Flickr

Capture by nessism, on Flickr

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P1010789 by nessism, on Flickr
 
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Did you get anything out of Pit Replica for that seat cover? Trying to decide who to get one from.
 
tkent02 said:
Did you get anything out of Pit Replica for that seat cover? Trying to decide who to get one from.
Click to expand...

Ordered another and ate it. It does look original and there is no place to purchase a nicer cover. Thinking about taking it to a local shop for install and maybe reinforcement of the bottom seam. Not sure yet though...
 
What was the cost of the black Kerker basecoat you just bought if I may ask?
 
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