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1982 GS300L Not Running Well

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It's obvious, what he said ^^^^, you need a manual. not being negative but there are even pictures in them that shows you how to find TDC.
 
When I first read this I'm thinking, what kind of idiot works on a bike without a manual? Since LAB3 mentioned it's in the manual, I visited the garage this morning and again couldn't find anything about TDC. Then I checked the cover which says, GS300L Supplemental, and in fine print used with the Suzuki GT250T manual. So this makes me a slighly different kind of overconfident idiot. Holy S%$# all this time I was only working with partial guidance. So not a negative or crazy question and thanks for LAB3 and rphillips for raising it. The manual over on BikeCliff is over 300 pages, jeeess. My life is about to change, you guys are awesome thanks!
 
I'm not the kind of guy that follows instructions either hence my need to carry a cordless drill and easy outs. Dunno, it takes up less room than a torque wrench I guess....
 
Yeah the 300 pages includes the 250 manual and 300 supplemental. I’ll be printing that first section tomorrow at the office. My petcock was delivered today so I quickly installed and nothing new, still wont idle and wont run on right cylinder by itself. So I’m back to looking at that carbs, took them off again and review all steps in the tutorial.
 
Fritzey21 said:
Yeah the 300 pages includes the 250 manual and 300 supplemental. I’ll be printing that first section tomorrow at the office. My petcock was delivered today so I quickly installed and nothing new, still wont idle and wont run on right cylinder by itself. So I’m back to looking at that carbs, took them off again and review all steps in the tutorial.
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I had the same exact problem as you with my 250. It took me 4 years, but this last weekend I got it running like it should. The carbs are important. Use only mikuni or OE jets and needles. I replaced the diaphragms with some from Ebay. They seem to be of high quality. When installing the slides, make sure you get the diaphragms seated properly. And get new insulators for between the carbs and the cylinder head. I didn't think it would help any, but it did. Also, check to see if your ignition system is up to par and that the spark plugs are lighting.
 
Thanks Mr. Vroom, I hear you on the intakes pipes. I swapped out the rings and added Alan hex head screws to get leverage. I’m pretty convinced it the float on the right side. I’m just waiting on new screws or take the old and drill them out for tubes as shown in tutorial. I’ll check the spark again to be sure.
 
Fritzey21 said:
Thanks Mr. Vroom, I hear you on the intakes pipes. I swapped out the rings and added Alan hex head screws to get leverage. I’m pretty convinced it the float on the right side. I’m just waiting on new screws or take the old and drill them out for tubes as shown in tutorial. I’ll check the spark again to be sure.
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I'll be interested to see how it works out for you. They are pretty fast and snappy bikes when working properly!
 
Well I got everything set up to test the float levels over the weekend, found they needed some adjustments and did that dance 3-4 times. I didn’t detect the left side being crazy out of spec, but purchased a new petcock and installed new fuels lines with solid clamps to eliminate any air leaks. And for fun got a new air filter. I got everything back together and bike started right up. Then I noticed a gas leak which was my doing, because I forced one of the old screws in during the test and looks like stripped the thread on one float bowl. So I have to fix that and see if I can get it idle. It might actually be ready for a test drive before it snows.
 
Fixed up bowl threads, added new gaskets but still runs rough and won't idle off choke. So now I'm down to seek professional help or part this out and move on.
 
So, there's only one more thing I can think of carb wise that may have been overlooked. Replacement float bowl gaskets are often much wider than originals and can and often do interfere with the float, espresso when the bike is not level. You really don't want to pull them and I understand that so I'll leave that up to you

If the carbs aren't leaking then go to your ignition basics next. A old resistor cap that's out of spec is a good place to start.
 
Fritzey21 said:
Fixed up bowl threads, added new gaskets but still runs rough and won't idle off choke. So now I'm down to seek professional help or part this out and move on.
Click to expand...

Do you still have kit parts in the carburetors? If it won't idle off of choke its way too lean. That's because of improper jetting or improper sealing leading to excessive air.
 
The last time through I went back to the original parts, it didn’t change anything so I put the the new valve assembly and needle back in. I believe they were OEM. Form there I checked and reset the float levels. I added new fuel hoses and clamps after the float tests, so I’m kinda stuck.
 
Fritzey21 said:
The last time through I went back to the original parts, it didn’t change anything so I put the the new valve assembly and needle back in. I believe they were OEM. Form there I checked and reset the float levels. I added new fuel hoses and clamps after the float tests, so I’m kinda stuck.
Click to expand...

Did you happen to mess with the adjustment screw on the top of the carbs? If you didn't then leave it alone. They should be set from the factory (although the manual I have did give instructions on resetting the screws if you need to.
 
I reset them according to the tutorial which advised starting with 2.5 turns
 
Make sure the needles tips are not broken, they should come to a very fine point, but other than that, I am stumped. Although it does sound to me that you have a carburetor issue.
 
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I’ll take another look, but after that my next move is to find a mechanic.
 
Quick update on my GS300 saga, dropped it off at a shop this week. He’s not know to be fast, so I be back when I hear from him. Most likely in 24.
 
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