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1983 GS1100E Clutch parts questions

adam83

Forum Apprentice
Im going to replace the friction discs and steels on my 83. I was planning on ordering OEM pieces, unless there is a better option? With OEM, there are 2 part numbers for friction discs, 1 for the D model, 1 for the Z model. I have the D model, but is there any benefit to using the Z model discs?

Are any other parts in this clutch setup that are known to get worn out at this age and should be replaced? For example, any of the springs, washers, wave washers, bearings etc?

Also, what is the unlabeled part between 16 and 17 on the diagram?

clutch-parts-diagram.jpg
 
that's the 1 steel plate goes between the wave washer (17) and the ring stopper (piano wire # 16). I'm thinking the Z plates are thinner and require 10 to be used instead of 9 as the D uses. But wait for verification on that.
 
I just replaced the frictions in my 83 850 and I used EBC plates because they are about half the cost of OEM. I've put a few hundred miles on them, so far so good. Several others on the forum have used EBC with success as well. I did not replace the steel plates because they looked fine. I would also replace the springs (item 12 in your image) if I were you, they're cheap and you've got it apart so you may as well replace them as well. I would just use OEM springs if your bike is stock.
 
I replaced the fiber discs in my owned since new 1100ED. The 83 had /has the extra fiber disc....one year only. The thinner metal core of the fiber discs do put grooves in the clutch basket...sometimes enough to require basket replacement. I installed Fast by Gast fibers. I re used original pressure plate springs, had basket properly riveted / welded and damper springs replaced etc. by Pearson Racing ...West Alexandria, Ohio
 
Thanks for replies. I'm a little confused, is it the Z that got the 10 fibers/steels, or is it the D? Or did both get 10? I'm assuming since there are different part numbers for the D and Z , that only one of them got the thinner disc's.

Grand Rouge, I've not heard of those brands/companies I'll have to check them out, and also inspect my clutch basket to see what you mean.
 
The number of plates you need is in the picture you posted.

Yes, some aftermarket plates work, but if they damaged your clutch basket after a few thousand miles
you would be sorry.
Can't beat OEM, i'd look around for a good price, still to be found.
 
Im going to replace the friction discs and steels on my 83. I was planning on ordering OEM pieces, unless there is a better option? With OEM, there are 2 part numbers for friction discs, 1 for the D model, 1 for the Z model. I have the D model, but is there any benefit to using the Z model discs?
...

From what I remember, Suzuki stopped supplying the asbestos plates to the USA and the new OEM plates were not as good as their original. I was talking with Paul Gast about it and he had sorted out who the original supplier was and went directly to them in order to buy by bulk. He would show up at the track and you could buy as many as you wanted at basically cost. I don't believe he is in business anymore and suspect the only thing you can get are the newer OEM mix or aftermarket. I tried various aftermarket plates but they all have their problems.

That said, if your just using them with your stock street bike. No big deal.

plates.jpg
 
Different aftermarket plated viewed from the side. Not a fan of the top two, even for stock. The thicker aluminum substrate is going to be much easier on a stock basket.
plates1.jpg
 
Thanks for that info. I'd think you couldn't mix them in the same hub??? or is the difference small enough you could adjust to workOK? I've replaced several plates, but don't remember dealing with this.
 
Thanks for that info. I'd think you couldn't mix them in the same hub??? or is the difference small enough you could adjust to workOK? I've replaced several plates, but don't remember dealing with this.

Assuming you mean mixing different aftermarket parts, I wouldn't recommend it.

The stackup for what I am doing is a bit more critical than for a street bike. I've ground steels for different thicknesses to get the height I want. Shown is the clutch for my GS, same era as yours. The plates shown came from Paul. I think I bought 50 or so last time. Note the custom feeler gauge with ball point pen used to check the stack.


plates2.jpg
 
Thinking more about OEM plates. I now have an "83" (D) model bike with thinner plates. I have several older plates back there that are from earlier bikes, that will be the thicker plates. If I take my "83" clutch apart and find a couple, or 3, broken plates, can I just stick a couple, or 3 of those old, thicker, plates in there and be OK, or would it make the complete stack too thick (tall) to work properly on a stock bike? I know I have both older 1100 plates and GS1150 plates back there in the same pile, but never noticed the difference in thickness.
 
Seems strange, FBG doesn't distinguish between the 2 thicknesses for the GS1100's just say use 9 plates that would indicate they are the same as earlier thicker plates. It got me wondering so looking I found that Suzuki went back to the thicker plates for the GS1150's. It seems the thinner plates were for "83" GS1100 chain dr. models only.... Who'd have thunk that???
 
So if I wanted to order oem, but avoid the thinner 83 stuff, would I be good ordering steels and fibers for an 82 bike?
 
So if I wanted to order oem, but avoid the thinner 83 stuff, would I be good ordering steels and fibers for an 82 bike?

Steels and fibers: The fibers as shown in above FbG link are the ones ya want...... 1983 had the thinner fibers due to the core.....that puts grooves in the basket. Some 1982's may have had those as well. BUT....the GS 1150.....same fibers and steels as the 1980 and 81 GS 1100 so safe and good to go. That said...are your steels in poor condition...or have you yet to open clutch up? They are really durable 9 fibers are what ya need.
 
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Seems strange, FBG doesn't distinguish between the 2 thicknesses for the GS1100's just say use 9 plates that would indicate they are the same as earlier thicker plates. It got me wondering so looking I found that Suzuki went back to the thicker plates for the GS1150's. It seems the thinner plates were for "83" GS1100 chain dr. models only.... Who'd have thunk that???

Exactly. What do you think...with the (apparent) horse power and torque increase with the 1983 E model did the engineers figure an extra 10 percent increase in friction area (10 fibers not 9) was necessary? Well, overkill for sure....including some basket grooving. Went with tried and true in following years with the 1150. All good.
 
Thinking more about OEM plates. I now have an "83" (D) model bike with thinner plates. I have several older plates back there that are from earlier bikes, that will be the thicker plates. If I take my "83" clutch apart and find a couple, or 3, broken plates, can I just stick a couple, or 3 of those old, thicker, plates in there and be OK, or would it make the complete stack too thick (tall) to work properly on a stock bike? I know I have both older 1100 plates and GS1150 plates back there in the same pile, but never noticed the difference in thickness.

I am thinking you already know the answer...;) To ensure proper clutch pack height in spec, go with the 9 thicker fibers.
 
Exactly. What do you think...with the (apparent) horse power and torque increase with the 1983 E model...
I'm not aware of any power increase from '82 to '83. The welded crank (which '82 did not have) of course is better, but some have suggested the '82 11E is more powerful than the '83.
 
I just found this rob. Per Cycle World Test Sept. 1983 Suzuki GS1100E. Valve lift was increased for 1983 and intake valve timing was advanced by moving the cam sprocket holes. Along with larger air box inlets and a less restrictive exhaust, those changes boosted the 1983 engines output to 108bhp @ 9000rpm., up from the 1982 version's 105bhp.... We'd done a lot of investigating back then, all we found was the "83" EX cam was slightly bigger (I bought and installed it in my "80"), and the air box inlet was changed, as it was every every yr. for the 1100E. We also found the valve seats were cut on different angles for the "82" Katana, I had the seats cut on my "80" to match them. Did all I could find to keep my GS1100 all stock Suzuki, including the stock Suzuki sprocket from an RE5 rotary, that geared it down 1 tooth.
 
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