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1983 gs450l Clutch cover bolts - torque specifications anyone?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Laflammc
  • Start date Start date
L

Laflammc

Guest
Hi all, looked at both Clymer and Hayes for the torque settings on the clutch cover bolts without any success. Also checked the Suzuki service manual, no dice ...

Anyone know what torque these should be set at?

Thanks!

Forum newbie.
 
It's tricky in practise because the threads and holes are usually oily and the torque recommended are for dry holes..but first note is that dry for 6mm dry threads are about 72 inch/lbs...up to 88? or so but try not to go there. thinner screws will be less torque. A good gasket will help.....inch/lbs because you want an "inch/lb" torque wrench....not here so much as when you handle the valve-cover... The bigger ft/lb torque wrenches are meaningless at low torques...

and clean oily threads and holes are less torque...

Soo, rather than all that, without a fancy wrench handy, just hand-tighten fairly hard and equally without any leverage of a wrench-handle. Use a JIS screw driver for cross-head, or if 8mm bolt-headed, a screw-driver handle on the socket-(these often are in a small-socket wrench kit)...and, if you worry about "too loose-falling out", a single tap with an impact driver will be more than enough but will make it harder to remove them too, if you need do it away from shop-that's the ruin of many good JIS screw heads.
 
Last edited:
It's tricky in practise because the threads and holes are usually oily and the torque recommended are for dry holes..but first note is that dry for 6mm dry threads are about 72 inch/lbs...up to 88? or so but try not to go there. thinner screws will be less torque. A good gasket will help.....inch/lbs because you want an "inch/lb" torque wrench....not here so much as when you handle the valve-cover... The bigger ft/lb torque wrenches are meaningless at low torques...

and clean oily threads and holes are less torque...

Soo, rather than all that, without a fancy wrench handy, just hand-tighten fairly hard and equally without any leverage of a wrench-handle. Use a JIS screw driver for cross-head, or if 8mm bolt-headed, a screw-driver handle on the socket-(these often are in a small-socket wrench kit)...and, if you worry about "too loose-falling out", a single tap with an impact driver will be more than enough but will make it harder to remove them too, if you need do it away from shop-that's the ruin of many good JIS screw heads.

Thanks for the detailed response !
 
well, that's just how I see it after slogging through the mud of information and my own bikes...so many of which came to me with ruined casing screws.

By the way, many manuals for various bikes come with a torque information chart for "other screws and bolts". Clymer and haynes may not have it or it's hidden somewhere. Goto BikeCliff's Website and see if there's a Suzuki manual for your bike. You can't have too many manuals.
here's a screengrab from a Suzuki shop manual but bear my notes per oily threads in mind.
Screen-2020-08-17_07-05-07.jpg
 
well, that's just how I see it after slogging through the mud of information and my own bikes...so many of which came to me with ruined casing screws.

By the way, many manuals for various bikes come with a torque information chart for "other screws and bolts". Clymer and haynes may not have it or it's hidden somewhere. Goto BikeCliff's Website and see if there's a Suzuki manual for your bike. You can't have too many manuals.
here's a screengrab from a Suzuki shop manual but bear my notes per oily threads in mind.
View attachment 61538

Thanks for the information ... your snap shot is complete and printed to place in my shop!
 
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