S
smarzinski
Guest
if your looking for parts let me know. I have a complete engine, carbs, front end, fairing and windscreen, rims.......etc.
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G
GateKeeper
Guest
Thanks for the offer....I will keep it in mind
I just checked out your build
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=165430
very nice, love the conversion
nice handle bars as well, wouldn't mind trying something like that on mine, and that green chain is awesome, was it expensive, or can I ask where you got it
Thanks
7
7981GS
Guest
Keep the fork lowers black.
It compliments the contrast between the upper tubes and triple tree.
Daniel
It compliments the contrast between the upper tubes and triple tree.
Daniel
G
GateKeeper
Guest
One dosn't look like the other.....
One dosn't look like the other.....
Well tonight I tackled the front rim, it needed to get polished before it gets painted, so here is a comparison to the rear rim, which will probably get done tomorrow, and then mask them off and shoot some paint on them....
This is about 4 hours of effort......I think it came out OK...
in the 7th picture you can see a reflection of the camera...
Front rim
Rear rim
front
rear
The money shot
One dosn't look like the other.....
Well tonight I tackled the front rim, it needed to get polished before it gets painted, so here is a comparison to the rear rim, which will probably get done tomorrow, and then mask them off and shoot some paint on them....
This is about 4 hours of effort......I think it came out OK...
in the 7th picture you can see a reflection of the camera...
Front rim
Rear rim
front
rear
The money shot
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B
brslk
Guest
A world of difference. Very nice looking. It's often little details like this that take a lot of work and make something good into something great.
I will be shipping you all my parts that need to be polished tomorrow.
I will pay you a six pack of beer per part.
Thanks pal.
Oh! and I want them back within the week. K?
Bruce.
I will be shipping you all my parts that need to be polished tomorrow.
I will pay you a six pack of beer per part.
Thanks pal.
Oh! and I want them back within the week. K?
Bruce.
G
GateKeeper
Guest
Thanks for the compliment.....
No Problem on the polishing, Bruce
Beer is good.........
you just might not get your stuff back in a week....maybe 2
No Problem on the polishing, Bruce
Beer is good.........
you just might not get your stuff back in a week....maybe 2
G
Guest
Guest
Looking great GK! Can't wait to see the final product after paint. You gonna clear them after you paint?
Sci85
Sci85
G
GateKeeper
Guest
Maybe just the painted portion, I am always afraid that the polished portion will chip/crack/yellow, so it's probably easier to just clean it up every now and then, and a nice coat of wax, should make em look good for a while...
I hope....
and I haven't even decided on what paint to use, it will be black and shiny, was thinking the same paint I was going to use for the frame, the appliance epoxy stuff, should hold up rather well, anyone have other suggestions ?
.
B
brslk
Guest
Go with the appliance epoxy stuff. It looks not quite right when you first spray it out of the can but it smooths itself out very well.
It is pretty hard when fully cured and has a nice gloss to it.
Practice spraying it on something other than the part you are painting. You need to lay it down thick enough for a proper build up without getting runs.
Do it in two coats. Lay down the first coat with just enough paint to mostly cover it. Wait till that first coat is tacky to the touch and then lay down a "gloss" coat. Just thick enough to look glossy without running.
If you do happen to get a run don't panic! keep a roll of masking tape with you and when you see a run while painting take a long strip of tape and lay it over the run. It will peel the run off and you can respray the area right away.
You may have to tape and peel a few times to flatten it out but it works.
I was taught this tip a long time ago and it has saved me from having to wet sand and polish many runs when I first started painting.
If you have any questions feel free to PM me.
Bruce.
It is pretty hard when fully cured and has a nice gloss to it.
Practice spraying it on something other than the part you are painting. You need to lay it down thick enough for a proper build up without getting runs.
Do it in two coats. Lay down the first coat with just enough paint to mostly cover it. Wait till that first coat is tacky to the touch and then lay down a "gloss" coat. Just thick enough to look glossy without running.
If you do happen to get a run don't panic! keep a roll of masking tape with you and when you see a run while painting take a long strip of tape and lay it over the run. It will peel the run off and you can respray the area right away.
You may have to tape and peel a few times to flatten it out but it works.
I was taught this tip a long time ago and it has saved me from having to wet sand and polish many runs when I first started painting.
If you have any questions feel free to PM me.
Bruce.
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F
Flyboy
Guest
Wow, nice work on the rim there, I do like it...a lot, keep it up, like brslk said, the details turn something nice into something great.
I am not sure I would go with a gloss black on the rims, you have shiny bits already in the rim and the spokes, I would lean more to a satin finish to give a nice contrast between the polished bits and the satin bits, it will really bring the polished bits out.
I think a high gloss black and polished rim and spokes would look a touch gaudy, I may be wrong.
Just my 2c
I am not sure I would go with a gloss black on the rims, you have shiny bits already in the rim and the spokes, I would lean more to a satin finish to give a nice contrast between the polished bits and the satin bits, it will really bring the polished bits out.
I think a high gloss black and polished rim and spokes would look a touch gaudy, I may be wrong.
Just my 2c
G
GateKeeper
Guest
@brslk.....Thanks for the tips, hopefully I won't need the tape, but it's a good trick to know.....
@Flyboy......I know what you mean, but not sure what else to use, that will have the endurance that the appliance paint has, the rest of the paints are just your basic automotive type paints, that offer me the satin finish, I can perhaps use a coat of satin finish varathane or urethane, or something to give it the satin finish, my only other option of a descent paint is the VHT brand we have, and I have not looked at what the satin is applicable for....but I can check it out
Then again, I could just keep the rims on the "a bit dirty" side and it will look matte...LOL
@Flyboy......I know what you mean, but not sure what else to use, that will have the endurance that the appliance paint has, the rest of the paints are just your basic automotive type paints, that offer me the satin finish, I can perhaps use a coat of satin finish varathane or urethane, or something to give it the satin finish, my only other option of a descent paint is the VHT brand we have, and I have not looked at what the satin is applicable for....but I can check it out
Then again, I could just keep the rims on the "a bit dirty" side and it will look matte...LOL
F
Flyboy
Guest
Nah, you have done far too nice of a job so far to leave the wheels on the dirty side.
Check out the VHT range, from everything I have read here it is very highly regarded and they have a paint for most everything from a dead hooker to a rusty screw driver.
I am sitting with the problem with my calipers now, not sure what to use, we don't have VHT here and being in a pressurized can it is not easily or cheaply shipped as it is classed as dangerous goods.
And in all my years working in the motor trade both for dealerships and myself, I have never seen a dedicated caliper paint here.
I guess I am going to have to go with 2K urethane, that stuff is as tough as diamonds.
Oh hurry up Walmart....
Check out the VHT range, from everything I have read here it is very highly regarded and they have a paint for most everything from a dead hooker to a rusty screw driver.
I am sitting with the problem with my calipers now, not sure what to use, we don't have VHT here and being in a pressurized can it is not easily or cheaply shipped as it is classed as dangerous goods.
And in all my years working in the motor trade both for dealerships and myself, I have never seen a dedicated caliper paint here.
I guess I am going to have to go with 2K urethane, that stuff is as tough as diamonds.
Oh hurry up Walmart....
G
Guest
Guest
GK, just came over to check out your triple clamp and what, no pics? You know that's a no no. Shame on you.
Oh, and to give my opinion on your earlier questions...I would not use JB Weld for anything structural or requiring tourqe. If it was mine (and I do have one broken bolt too), I would get a heli coil kit. They work great and shouldn't give you any trouble. No point in spending all that money on a new head just for a couple broken bolts.
You could also take the head into a machine shop who can do the work for you if you're not comfortable doing it yourself.
And I agree with 7981GS. Keep the lowers black. Looks much better on that bike.
Sci85
Oh, and to give my opinion on your earlier questions...I would not use JB Weld for anything structural or requiring tourqe. If it was mine (and I do have one broken bolt too), I would get a heli coil kit. They work great and shouldn't give you any trouble. No point in spending all that money on a new head just for a couple broken bolts.
You could also take the head into a machine shop who can do the work for you if you're not comfortable doing it yourself.
And I agree with 7981GS. Keep the lowers black. Looks much better on that bike.
Sci85
G
GateKeeper
Guest
What you mean no pics,,,,I have lots of pics....LOL
check post here - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1548582&postcount=220
my holes are really big, unfortunately, so a heli coil might not be applicable, but I was thinking of using the JB Weld and will it was still wet, stick a heli coil in and let it all cure at the same time ?
speaking of machine shops, my brother owns one, but we had a falling out, so I am not going there anymore, most of the tools I need are there, as is about 2000 square feet of space, I could use, ohhh well crap happens.....
I will sire wheel the lowers a bit, just to get the roughness out, and repaint the lowers, you guys are right it would be way too much shine....
check post here - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1548582&postcount=220
my holes are really big, unfortunately, so a heli coil might not be applicable, but I was thinking of using the JB Weld and will it was still wet, stick a heli coil in and let it all cure at the same time ?
speaking of machine shops, my brother owns one, but we had a falling out, so I am not going there anymore, most of the tools I need are there, as is about 2000 square feet of space, I could use, ohhh well crap happens.....
I will sire wheel the lowers a bit, just to get the roughness out, and repaint the lowers, you guys are right it would be way too much shine....
H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
That polished wheel looks fantastic!
J
john82q
Guest
Crushed in frame
Crushed in frame
Gatekeeper, I think your frame needs some attention.
The pipe looks crushed, while the frame as a whole may not be distorted, theres a whole lot of strength missing right there, a weak point that will flex. Just bogging it over with JB weld wont put the strength back.
Here's a suggestion.
Source some square tube about the same size and bend it to the same radius bend as that part of the frame. (use a bender die so it dosnt chrush) Split this tube diagonally at the corners, so you wind up with a right angle section but with the curve in it. weld this over the crushed section.
This will be stronger than cuting the piece out and butt welding, plus theres less chance of distorting the frame with the cutting and welding.
Do it neat with tapered ends and on both down tubes of the frame and it may well look like it was made that way.
Crushed in frame
Gatekeeper, I think your frame needs some attention.
The pipe looks crushed, while the frame as a whole may not be distorted, theres a whole lot of strength missing right there, a weak point that will flex. Just bogging it over with JB weld wont put the strength back.
Here's a suggestion.
Source some square tube about the same size and bend it to the same radius bend as that part of the frame. (use a bender die so it dosnt chrush) Split this tube diagonally at the corners, so you wind up with a right angle section but with the curve in it. weld this over the crushed section.
This will be stronger than cuting the piece out and butt welding, plus theres less chance of distorting the frame with the cutting and welding.
Do it neat with tapered ends and on both down tubes of the frame and it may well look like it was made that way.
G
Guest
Guest
Sorry GK, but JB Weld only adheres to the surface which means its holding strength will not be strong enough once you place any torque on the hole. Great stuff for filling holes and such but cannot be used for areas under stress.
Another option is to find a solid welder who can weld the hole up with aluminum and then redrill and tap it. Have to find a guy who has real experience with aluminum though. I've seen this done before with good results.
And sorry to hear about your issue with your bro. I've got two myself and sometimes can be a real PIA. But you know, in the end, they are family and nobody can love you like family. Hope you can Find a way to work it out.
Sci85
Another option is to find a solid welder who can weld the hole up with aluminum and then redrill and tap it. Have to find a guy who has real experience with aluminum though. I've seen this done before with good results.
And sorry to hear about your issue with your bro. I've got two myself and sometimes can be a real PIA. But you know, in the end, they are family and nobody can love you like family. Hope you can Find a way to work it out.
Sci85
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GateKeeper
Guest
You are probably right, and I should get it done correctly, the funny thing is it's been like that ever since I had the bike, and honestly, never noticed the extent of the ding until now, never really looked at it so close, guess I have been lucky that it did not give way, break or anything else.
I guess I will have to source out a welder/fabricator, and get it done right, might as well not half a$$ it now
Thanks for the kick in the pants.............sometimes one needs it.....
Again probably words of wisdom here as well, I just figured the JB Weld stuff would be good enough, the holes are not all that big, neither are the bolts going into them, one is for the header and the other for the oil cover, but again there is some torque once those parts are put in place, and one has to stop an exhaust leak, and the other has to hold back the oil.
I do have some Devcon, maybe that will be better....we used it in the shop on occasion, I will have to see it's strength compared to the JB Weld stuff, at leas for the repair of the holes
I do have a really good welder, well through my bro, I guess I will try to get the name of the guy and his location to get it fixed up properly.
Up family is family no matter how you dice it up, perhaps one day, we will set aside our differences and make peace.....
Thanks to you as well......
Thanks, compliments are appreciated
G
GateKeeper
Guest
Rear wheel polished
Rear wheel polished
Well I spent time on the rear wheel tonight, got it polished up, cleaned up and put the tape on, now both are ready for paint. I found VHT header paint to be in a matte black finish, I am wondering if I could use it for the rims ???
I will search around a bit more to see what else I can find, before I commit to anything....
I did find some filler primer today...wooohoooo, can use it on the body panels to fill in the small nicks and such, then a good light sanding and they will be ready for the painter.....
Anyways here are a few shots of the rear rim
I just noticed some crud in between the letters on the rim, going to have to clean that up before paint........
one is taped and ready, the rear was done latter, but I didn't take any pics
Rear wheel polished
Well I spent time on the rear wheel tonight, got it polished up, cleaned up and put the tape on, now both are ready for paint. I found VHT header paint to be in a matte black finish, I am wondering if I could use it for the rims ???
I will search around a bit more to see what else I can find, before I commit to anything....
I did find some filler primer today...wooohoooo, can use it on the body panels to fill in the small nicks and such, then a good light sanding and they will be ready for the painter.....
Anyways here are a few shots of the rear rim
I just noticed some crud in between the letters on the rim, going to have to clean that up before paint........
one is taped and ready, the rear was done latter, but I didn't take any pics
G
Guest
Guest
Looking good. I need to hit mine so I can paint on Friday with the warmer than normal temps. Did you just do the outside, silver portion? What was your process?
Sci85
Sci85
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