1992 GSX1100G project

[GS1000G Shopper]

Here are a few more pics of some progress.
AN fittings on valve cover:

Aluminum plate adapted to rack for trunk:

Gauge add on housing from 2"x4" PVC (needs finishing):

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

I received a gear position switch from a Hayabusa today. While they look the same online, the Hayabusa unit is much smaller than what is on the GSX-G.

I have to think Suzuki made a 6-wire GPI switch for this engine, otherwise why have the rotating part for the neutral switch? I've looked at newer and older models and they appear to be smaller as well. More modern ones look larger, but they are 3-wire units that send a voltage to the ECU, something I don't have. Worst case, I could try to read the voltage and output it to 5 wires, or I may try to make one switch out of two using the guts of the Hayabusa switch. I thought the Japanese used similar parts on similar engines, this is disappointing.

 

[blowerbike]

I received a gear position switch from a Hayabusa today. While they look the same online, the Hayabusa unit is much smaller than what is on the GSX-G.

I have to think Suzuki made a 6-wire GPI switch for this engine, otherwise why have the rotating part for the neutral switch? I've looked at newer and older models and they appear to be smaller as well. More modern ones look larger, but they are 3-wire units that send a voltage to the ECU, something I don't have. Worst case, I could try to read the voltage and output it to 5 wires, or I may try to make one switch out of two using the guts of the Hayabusa switch. I thought the Japanese used similar parts on similar engines, this is disappointing.

does any of the oil cooled GSXR/KAT/BANDIT's have a shift indicator?
these would bolt right on your engine.
i don't remember the bandits having one.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

I've looked at those & the Bandit (early) used the same 1-wire connector as the GSX-G. The later ones look to have used a 3-wire (power, ground, gear) that supplied this data to the computer. None I've seen have a gear indicator. The later models output a low voltage to the computer. I'm not even sure if the OD of the switch is the same.

Further research on both parts shows the operating circle diameter of the terminals is the same for both. In simple terms, if I could fab up a mounting plate for the Hayabusa switch, and align it properly, it would work as I need it to.

The Hayabusa switch is 26mm OD, and the GSX-G switch is 36mm OD.

My best guess at this point is to either use a 26mm x 36mm oil seal (presuming I can find one, may have to use an o-ring) and fab up an aluminum bracket to mount it and hold the seal in place, or to cut down the Hayabusa switch to a circle and drill out the GSX-G switch and epoxy the Hayabusa switch in place.

The bolt pattern is different as well, the Hayabusa switch is about 39.75mm on center and the GSX-G switch is 49.25mm on center. Both have 5.5mm diameter mounting holes, so they would overlap if laid on top of each other.

This is a feasible project, just need to think it over some more.

 

[blowerbike]

ok not sure if these was offered for the oil cooled engines but..
on the GS engines you can purchase a block off for the shift drum.
if this is available for a bandit ect.. it would give you the correct pattern on the engine side anyways.
also none of the oil cooled engines had injection hence no computer.
as far as i know your engine is the same as a bandit 1156 or and gixxer/kat 1127 and even a gen 1 gixxer 1052 oil cooled except for the shaft conversion.
check with big jay at APE...he post and is a member here.
or call paul gast (fast by gast) and ask about the block off for an oil cooled gixxer...i don't think there very expensive and could save a little fab work.

this plate is for a GS1100/1150

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

Thanks for the info. I can use the old switch as a template. What I may try to do is to add extensions onto the ends of the Hayabusa switch, either using JB Weld (the switch body looks to be Bakelite or some type of plastic) or by cutting some .5" aluminum plate I have here. If I can get the aluminum to be a good fit, I can secure it to the Hayabusa switch and drill the mounting holes at the proper distance.

Also, I found a 26x36x3 oil seal at Maryland Metrics. It is #48678. The next question is availability & price. Hopefully I don't have to buy 100 of them.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

Definitely outside the box, but I got a great idea to use some Play-Doh and make a mold of the old switch, and then press the new one in and pour some JB Weld in to enlarge the mounting area around it. Have to wait at least 15 hours for it to dry. Worst case I'm out $12 for the switch. Best case I have a flat mounting surface and can use the oil seal above.

Pics to follow.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

The top part of the switch came out OK, but it sloped off too much at the bottom, so it was back to the drawing board.

I visited Powersports Plus online today, and here is almost everything you want to know about Suzuki gear position switches.

As noted above, it looks like all bikes have the inner part on the shift drum that activates the switch. The hard part is finding the correct switch. Bikes that do not have a GPI on the dash use a simple 1-wire switch that is only activated when the bike is in neutral. Older bikes used a 6-wire switch, so apparently it was used on both 5 and 6 speed bikes. I'll call these the multi-wire switches. What the switch does is ground one wire at a time as the gear drum rotates, which then completes a circuit and lights the dash indicator.

Newer bikes use a 3-wire system, which is power, ground, and gear signal. I've read it is 1-5 volts. This is read by the bike's computer and either used internally or if the bike has a dash display, it is output there.

As near as I can tell, there are at least three multi-wire versions-
The ones used on the 8V GS motors like my 1000G
Larger diameter ones used on some 16V motors such as the 1100ES and 1150ES. The GSX1100G also uses a large diameter neutral switch.
Smaller diameter ones such as the one supposedly from a 2006 Hayabusa that I bought.

I'm going to skip the last one, as I don't think it was from a 2006 Hayabusa based on the parts diagram, the fact bikes of that era had 3-wire switches, and it doesn't fit anyway. I also looked at a 1999 Hayabusa and it showed the same as the 2006 model for this part. Looking at some older parts diagrams, it looks more like the switch used on the 1979 GS750E.

The key to finding one of these that will work with the GSX engine is finding one that has a gear position indicator and uses the same o-ring. It is Suzuki part # 09280-36001, which shows as 36.2mm ID and 2.4mm thick. You can also ID them when they are on eBay if the picture is good enough. The smaller diameter ones will have the brass terminals right up against where the o-ring goes. The larger diameter ones will have some extra room between them & the o-ring. The center-line/circle where the brass terminals are is the same for both small and large diameter switches.


Now for the good stuff.


The models that are known to have a gear position indicator are the GS750ES, the GS1100ES (rare), and the GS1150ES. All of these use the same o-ring as the GSX-1100G, so their switches will also interchange!


According to the parts listings, part #37720-49211 fits the 84-86 GS1150ES and is still available for about $62.00. It uses the same o-ring as the GSX1100G. It shows as superseded by 37720-24A01, same price. There is no model listing for the 24A01 switch.


Part # 37720-31300 fits the 1983 GS750ES and uses the same 36mm o-ring. It is obsolete, and shown as superseded by #37720-31301, which is also obsolete, but has a wider application range:
1985 GS700E & ES GEAR SHIFTING
1985 GV1200GLF, GLF2, & GLG GEAR SHIFTING
1985 GV700GL GEAR SHIFTING 1986 GV1200GLF, GLF2, & GLG GEAR SHIFTING


Part # 37720-49210 is available and about $62.00. It shows as superseded by 37720-49211 (see 1150ES above). According to the listings, this fits:
1980 GS1100-LT GEAR SHIFTING
1982 GS1100E & ES GEAR SHIFTING
1983 GS1100E & ES GEAR SHIFTING


This gives a fairly wide range of bikes on which to find a used one, or the option of buying a new one.

 

[blowerbike]

to much reading...lol
ok would you like a 1100/1150 switch-wiring put in the box with the shock?
these are from shift indicator GS model bikes.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

Sure... I had just ordered a new one but am sure I can cancel it as they are closed for the holidays. Let me know what it's worth & I'll mail you another MO.

Just need to make sure it has 6 + 1 wires. The 6 should be in one plug and the 7th in a bullet connector. Also need to be sure the diameter where the o-ring goes is 36mm or so (about 1.42").

Thanks.

 

[blowerbike]

what i'll have is 1100/1150 that came with a shift indicator.
i'll send it with the shock and if you can use it send me 15 bucks at a later date if thats not to much..if it won't work for you just pass it on to someone else...no charge.
let me get one in my hands...i think i know where my box of switches and such is and i'll report back.

 

[blowerbike]

36mm diameter where o-ring goes.
49mm between the screw holes.
6 wires to connector.
1 single wire with bullet.

the above information was confirmed when i posted it and sitting on my desk.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

Great, I'll cancel the order. Thanks a lot.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

Gauge and GPI wiring diagram. Looks like there will not be enough room in the panel for the photocell, so I'll mount it on the fairing. I can get power, ground, and illumination from the fuel gauge connector w/o cutting any wires:

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

More stuff has arrived (sadly Boulevard Suzuki has been a letdown, see page 2 of this thread).

Today I completed the power wiring for the left fairing pocket and the photocell. VEI has shipped my combo gauges, and the China thermometer arrived today, and I cut the opening in the add-on dash panel for it.

I replaced all of the gauge bulbs and tail light bulbs with LEDs. The gauge uses tiny #24 bulbs. I'm trying red for illumination and same-color for the turn and warning lights.

The rear shock & gear position switch are on the way. I've been re-plumbing the rear brake hose and am waiting for a 90 degree banjo to AN fitting for there. It's a tight fit for the swing arm and the supply hose.

Here are some pics from today:
Fairing wiring plan:

Pocket with power outlet, fuse panel, and relay installed:

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

My Sabre has gone from project status to operational, still have a few things to do with it, but I've put some road miles on it & like it a lot more than the ST1100 I had- plus it's not spitting coolant on me. This gives me more time for the GSX-G.

I've spent a few days working on about 100+ wires for various functions between the two bikes. For the GSX-G, this has been for the add-on gauges as well as the gear position indicator. I wired the latter based on the old switch I had. The one I bought from a member here has different color wires, but no big deal. I'm pleased to report it works.

I've added the eBay turn signals and they are a good fit for the bike.

After a small problem, my stock parts order arrived over a period of two days, so it is now complete. I've finished up the carbs and have them ready to remount, and have done other odd and end work. The calipers are all rebuilt & repainted red, I forgot to order the small clips that hold the pads for the rear, so a hardware order for these is n the way. I also rebuilt the masters for the front brake & clutch. The rear master is too difficult to get to.

Speaking of problems, my VEI dual purpose gauges arrived and I found they had chrome bezels! I had ordered black, so the company is going to fix this.

The masters are now installed, and I took apart the left & right switches to repaint the buttons and housings. While I was there, I cleaned the contacts for the horn & starter. I've also installed some similar to stock black mirrors I got from Amazon.

I got a Bandit rear shock along with the GPI switch (from a GS1150) from a member here, and it bolted right on.

The valve cover is now bolted down, new plugs are in & I cleaned the coils & plug wires. I've run AN braided hoses for the oil cooler, but still need some hose ends for the rear hoses. I was planning to run the senders up front, but there is not enough room. I found an AN6 gauge adapter and will put it to use on one of the rear hoses. I have a picture of the fittings and I found I can use the same gauge harness from my old Concours.

I've terminated a harness for the add-on gauges and GPI using some Molex connectors. They are powered by the fuel gauge feed, which also supplies ground, fuel level signal, and illumination feed. The wiring is semi-complex, but the illumination feed will power the fuse relay in the left fairing pocket as well as lighting the GPI LCD. The add-on round gauges can dim, so they will have their illumination controlled by a photocell.

I drained the rear differential fluid and it looked terrible- plus not much came out. I flushed it with some fresh oil and am letting it drain overnight. This is among the last main area of the bike to be worked on (the exhaust must be sandblasted and painted, and then several parts such as the tank need painted). The rear wheel and shaft have to come off, so I can replace the shaft boot, the rear wheel bearings, paint the wheel black, and then replace the tire.

Here are some pics from the past few days work:
eBay turn signal on the front (these have two with 2 wires two with 3 wires, so the 3 wire version functions as a running light up front)

Front end is looking better:

I've added a plug-in harness for the tail light that will allow the use of add-on rear lights and a brake light flasher:

Here are the gauge senders for oil pressure & temperature. They'll mount under the carbs on the right side of the bike. The black piece is a trick part that has a 1/8 pipe gauge port and adapts a male AN 6 to a female AN 6. UPDATE- the oil pressure must be taken at the main galley on the lower right of the engine. The plug is 16 x 1.5mm. I used a gauge adapter and a 90 degree 1/8 pipe elbow.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

Thought I'd throw in a before & after pic of the V65 Sabre while I'm at it.

Before, May 2011:

After, November 2012:

Still needs a few bits & pieces, but I like it a lot more than the ST1100- feels like a smaller bike.

Back the the GSX-G, I pulled the rear wheel today. I found that I didn't have to pull the swingarm to replace the torn shaft boot, just the diff and drive shaft.

With that out of the way, I then removed the old & crusty tire and removed the crusty wheel bearings. I have a coat of black paint on the wheel drying overnight. I also removed, cleaned, and repainted the side stand & springs. After I get done with this part of it, I can then move on to sandblasting the exhaust. I'm thinking of getting a quote on painting the tank and fairing. Since I can prep them & haul them to the body shop, it may not be too bad. The roller paint job on the Sabre is at best a 10 footer.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

I've worked my way to the back wheel. The old tire was a bit of a battle, but it eventually came off. The new Bridgestone didn't want to go on, so to YouTube I went (I used it for a bead breaker solution). If I hadn't seen the guy do this, I would not have believed it. Using heavy duty zip ties, he put a rear tire on by hand. I went to Walmart and found a pack of 5 zip ties for $2.50. I bought 10 just in case. Here's a pic of the tire with 6 zip ties in place (I let it sit in the sun to warm it up):

I knelt on the tire to compress it and tightened the zip tie.

It went on about 90% of the way by hand. I used a tire iron to help it the rest of the way.

Here's the video I used:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6WPzRRJLpA

 

[almarconi]

Its your bike but that vetter fairing destroys the look of the V65. Looks way better without it.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

I don't like to ride w/o wind protection, and usually mount stuff like gauges, so a fairing is a must. I don't care for the look of windshields and they are useless for mounting stuff. I looked at the Hondaline unit, but they are hard to come by and the windshield is too low. I think it would be cool to adapt either a BMW R100 or Pichler type of fairing to it- but this would require a lot of work to re-route wires- the fuse block and a lot of wiring is in front of the stem. Both the Hondaline and BMW fairings use a bracket that mounts to the stem. I could probably use my brackets with one of them, but don't have the cash to spare for one.

Having ridden it as it is, the calm pocket of air behind the Windjammer is nice- very similar to how the ST1100 was with this same faring (I recycled it).