7
7981GS
Guest
You do VERY NICE work! :clap:
I love the coil relocation! Excellent idea, I may have to steal it.
Daniel
I love the coil relocation! Excellent idea, I may have to steal it.
Daniel
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M
Mr.Midas
Guest
03-04 GSXR1000 steering damper, $32 shipped. Made the lower tree bolt-on bracket from scratch. To keep the damper from bottoming out I welded on about 1/8" more to either side of the stop lugs.
Shortening the front of the fender. The piece of steel brake line serves a very special purpose...
With some care and patience the brake line is formed and welded along the cut edge of the fender, and then dressed with a sanding disc. Now whatever's been cut or modified has a factory-like appearance and needed rigidity.(Picked this trick up from a hotrodding acquaintance.)
After a phosphoric de-rust treatment and some sanding. I used some por-15 on the underside and on the outside I sprayed the primer and base coat, then experimented with some black marine paint which I actually brushed on. I think it'll do. One more light sanding to take care of some runs, and if I still don't have a compressor set up by then, lay down the finish coat by hand again.
Shortening the front of the fender. The piece of steel brake line serves a very special purpose...
With some care and patience the brake line is formed and welded along the cut edge of the fender, and then dressed with a sanding disc. Now whatever's been cut or modified has a factory-like appearance and needed rigidity.(Picked this trick up from a hotrodding acquaintance.)
After a phosphoric de-rust treatment and some sanding. I used some por-15 on the underside and on the outside I sprayed the primer and base coat, then experimented with some black marine paint which I actually brushed on. I think it'll do.
One more light sanding to take care of some runs, and if I still don't have a compressor set up by then, lay down the finish coat by hand again.
V
voivod
Guest
cool mods
M
Mr.Midas
Guest
You do VERY NICE work! :clap:
I love the coil relocation! Excellent idea, I may have to steal it.
Daniel
Thanks! I'm sure I copied someone elses design when I came up with that mounting configuration. :-\\\
It is a bit tricky installing the coils now(and I learned to ALWAYS place a large rag or towel on top of the motor encase I drop a washer or spacer), but my Honda gas tank was able to retain much more of it's original capacity this way.
M
Mr.Midas
Guest
Once I'm caught up with what I've already done, updates should be a little less random. I'll try to let the pictures do most of the talking, but would be more-than-happy to provide specifics. Should I keep listing part costs?
More stuff I did Last year:
Picked up a SS super-trapp 4-1 with a little road rash for $240 shipped. Repacked the can with SS scrubber pads and painted with some flat black VHT. Only pic I could find for it was the of the diffuser(phospho-treatment and high temp paint). I was in a hurry and left the camera down. It was stuck upstairs in the shop and I had nearly forgotten where the whole exhaust was when I got back home. Major brain fart...
Dismantled, cleaned, painted, and re-bulbed the gauge cluster. It was tricky finding the bulbs locally because the parts stores only stocked like one pack of each size needed.
The chrome covers were severely pitted, so I attempted an interesting faux finish idea after phospho treatment...
Basically, what I did was spray it with paintable rubberized undercoating(intentionally creating a spatter finish). After it cured I sanded it lightly to "knock down" the bumps, and painted. It gave the covers a deep-grained vinyl-like appearance, which I think looks cool, but I'm still not sure it'll look good on the bike.
Tomorrow I'll cover how I made fiberglass side covers from scratch. I started on them last fall before leaving and in the past couple weeks completed fabrication & mounting. Just need to paint them!
More stuff I did Last year:
Picked up a SS super-trapp 4-1 with a little road rash for $240 shipped. Repacked the can with SS scrubber pads and painted with some flat black VHT. Only pic I could find for it was the of the diffuser(phospho-treatment and high temp paint). I was in a hurry and left the camera down. It was stuck upstairs in the shop and I had nearly forgotten where the whole exhaust was when I got back home. Major brain fart...
Dismantled, cleaned, painted, and re-bulbed the gauge cluster. It was tricky finding the bulbs locally because the parts stores only stocked like one pack of each size needed.
The chrome covers were severely pitted, so I attempted an interesting faux finish idea after phospho treatment...
Basically, what I did was spray it with paintable rubberized undercoating(intentionally creating a spatter finish). After it cured I sanded it lightly to "knock down" the bumps, and painted. It gave the covers a deep-grained vinyl-like appearance, which I think looks cool, but I'm still not sure it'll look good on the bike.
Tomorrow I'll cover how I made fiberglass side covers from scratch. I started on them last fall before leaving and in the past couple weeks completed fabrication & mounting. Just need to paint them!
M
Mr.Midas
Guest
Again I was rushing to finish up some things before leaving last fall and didn't think to take pictures until after undoing the form used to lay the first couple layers of glass mat. After cutting and forming the expanded metal( regular wire lath for stucco, ect) to fit the frame openings, I covered it and the frame tubes with masking tape. To keep the fiberglass from sticking to the tape I used a layer of plastic wrap held smoothly in place with contact spray adhesive. After two layers and another extra coat of epoxy I popped the panel off in order to work on the backsides.(Had the frame on its side while glassing)
After a little 60-80 grit sanding, I laid down another layer on the backsides, and let them cure again.
Then trimmed down with jig-say and smoothed the edges and bumps on the back with a sanding flap-disc on the side-grinder, before hot gluing a 1/4" cord down and placing the upper mount tabs cut from 3/4" aluminum angle.
Then I laid strips of fiberglass over the cord with a liberal-enough amount of epoxy for it to wick into the cording, and placed the whole panel into two regular(hole-free) shopping bags and applied a vacuum.
Already had the pump from when I retrofitted the AC in my car.(It's just a regular compressor pump pulled from a "retired" appliance.)
Last steps were setting a 1/4" furniture-bolt(with its large, round, and flat head well suited as an anchoring flange) with a couple layers of glass to lock it down. The knobs were made from T nuts epoxied into 1/2" pvc.(I could have picked up some knobs from the hardware store, but I had the extra epoxy and figured, "why not?"
The cording acts a reinforcement beam around the entire panel, allowing me to use a single fastener to hold them in place without the risk of them beginning to "flutter" at speed. I was really surprised just how rigid the panels became afterward.
A little more sanding/filler/paint work and I'll have some pretty nifty side covers. Of course now the battery box and electrical panel will need some refitting modifications to allow these panels to work(already have to do something with the battery box anyway).
Latest pic O' the project. Note the finished bracing, rearset/passenger peg brackets, and other gusseting in place; removed seat latch/hinges; X-shaped brace/seat mount; small cross-bar for retrofitted front seat release; and gas tank in some color.
After a little 60-80 grit sanding, I laid down another layer on the backsides, and let them cure again.
Then trimmed down with jig-say and smoothed the edges and bumps on the back with a sanding flap-disc on the side-grinder, before hot gluing a 1/4" cord down and placing the upper mount tabs cut from 3/4" aluminum angle.
Then I laid strips of fiberglass over the cord with a liberal-enough amount of epoxy for it to wick into the cording, and placed the whole panel into two regular(hole-free) shopping bags and applied a vacuum.
Already had the pump from when I retrofitted the AC in my car.(It's just a regular compressor pump pulled from a "retired" appliance.)
Last steps were setting a 1/4" furniture-bolt(with its large, round, and flat head well suited as an anchoring flange) with a couple layers of glass to lock it down. The knobs were made from T nuts epoxied into 1/2" pvc.(I could have picked up some knobs from the hardware store, but I had the extra epoxy and figured, "why not?"
The cording acts a reinforcement beam around the entire panel, allowing me to use a single fastener to hold them in place without the risk of them beginning to "flutter" at speed. I was really surprised just how rigid the panels became afterward.
A little more sanding/filler/paint work and I'll have some pretty nifty side covers. Of course now the battery box and electrical panel will need some refitting modifications to allow these panels to work(already have to do something with the battery box anyway).
Latest pic O' the project. Note the finished bracing, rearset/passenger peg brackets, and other gusseting in place; removed seat latch/hinges; X-shaped brace/seat mount; small cross-bar for retrofitted front seat release; and gas tank in some color.
Last edited:
R
ratdude
Guest
Wow , those side covers are incredible . Really nice job fabbing those up .
Rat
Rat
M
Mr.Midas
Guest
Whipped this oil cooler adapter up a couple days ago.
Many thanks to BassCliff's website and Mr. Nessism's writeup on making the adapter plate. I've been schooling myself here and on BassCliff's site as much as I can, and am really impressed by all the good info and very cool projects(stock and not), and love all the detailed how-to's.
I ended up using a 5/8" thick piece of aluminum instead of 1/2", and for whatever reason I couldn't find a 3/8 to 1/8 FIP reducer fitting locally, but did find a 3/8" FIP to Male flare fitting that I could get the proper dimensions out of for the port adapter.
What's the general consensus on installing GS750 oil pump gears after installing an oil cooler for a stock bike? Has the pressure/flow drop with the cooler installed ever really been measured?
I know this has probably been asked and answered a hundred times before(still haven't quite mastered search functionality... I usually have to bookmark a thread I want to return to, because it usually takes forever to find it again.)
Thanks all!
Many thanks to BassCliff's website and Mr. Nessism's writeup on making the adapter plate. I've been schooling myself here and on BassCliff's site as much as I can, and am really impressed by all the good info and very cool projects(stock and not), and love all the detailed how-to's.
I ended up using a 5/8" thick piece of aluminum instead of 1/2", and for whatever reason I couldn't find a 3/8 to 1/8 FIP reducer fitting locally, but did find a 3/8" FIP to Male flare fitting that I could get the proper dimensions out of for the port adapter.
What's the general consensus on installing GS750 oil pump gears after installing an oil cooler for a stock bike? Has the pressure/flow drop with the cooler installed ever really been measured?
I know this has probably been asked and answered a hundred times before(still haven't quite mastered search functionality... I usually have to bookmark a thread I want to return to, because it usually takes forever to find it again.)
Thanks all!
M
Mr.Midas
Guest
Painted the outer fork tubes yesterday. Going to tackle cleaning, fixing, painting miscellaneous stuff later today. I really want to have this thing rolling again, but I'm not quite done with the frame.
Definitely starting on the seat pan this week, and possibly physically committing to repair the crack in the case with JB-weld. I am 80% certain the JB will fix the leak and hold long enough for me to prepare for a rebuild, but that 20% uncertainty has kept me from actually doing it...:-k (In this instance, it looks like more $$$ does appear to be the only solution; however, since I can't just print and dispense it like a continuous roll of toilet paper, as the current administration enjoys doing...
)
Definitely starting on the seat pan this week, and possibly physically committing to repair the crack in the case with JB-weld. I am 80% certain the JB will fix the leak and hold long enough for me to prepare for a rebuild, but that 20% uncertainty has kept me from actually doing it...:-k (In this instance, it looks like more $$$ does appear to be the only solution; however, since I can't just print and dispense it like a continuous roll of toilet paper, as the current administration enjoys doing...
)
M
Mr.Midas
Guest
Slowly making notable progress...
Painted the triple trees; cleaned up/painted headlight rings and rear housing, & fit the new replaceable-bulb xenon headlamp; finished painting cluster housing & assembled cluster(mechanically tested needle functions with a drill); began work on controls - clutch bracket and left switch box painted(still need to fix a missing horn button & a cut wire); and almost finished with the seat pan form.
Here's a shot of the (florist foam) seatpan form on the bike. Just a little more shaping left to go:
I'm very new to fiber-glassing(the side panels I made were my first real attempt/practice), so any recommendations/pointers as to the current profile I've come up with would be welcome. Thinking about maybe pushing the first "step" back a little more to give me a little more room up front.
Double checking clearances with the swingarm before setting lower shock mounts; this will be the closest spot if the shocks ever bottom out:
There is just 3-4mm of space between the MC's reservoir tube elbow and the swingarm. To close for comfort? I could remount the mc to the outboard side of the bracket, giving me another 5-7mm to work with. Or I could just move the whole rearset out, and lose a little cornering clearance(really wasn't a regular peg-grinder in the past anyway
).
Painted the triple trees; cleaned up/painted headlight rings and rear housing, & fit the new replaceable-bulb xenon headlamp; finished painting cluster housing & assembled cluster(mechanically tested needle functions with a drill); began work on controls - clutch bracket and left switch box painted(still need to fix a missing horn button & a cut wire); and almost finished with the seat pan form.
Here's a shot of the (florist foam) seatpan form on the bike. Just a little more shaping left to go:
I'm very new to fiber-glassing(the side panels I made were my first real attempt/practice), so any recommendations/pointers as to the current profile I've come up with would be welcome. Thinking about maybe pushing the first "step" back a little more to give me a little more room up front.
Double checking clearances with the swingarm before setting lower shock mounts; this will be the closest spot if the shocks ever bottom out:
There is just 3-4mm of space between the MC's reservoir tube elbow and the swingarm. To close for comfort? I could remount the mc to the outboard side of the bracket, giving me another 5-7mm to work with. Or I could just move the whole rearset out, and lose a little cornering clearance(really wasn't a regular peg-grinder in the past anyway
).
I once repaired a hole on chainsaw crankcase which had a rod bolt go through it.
I used a product that was very similar to JB weld. (Ford two part metallic plastic) the repair outlasted the engine...
M
Mr.Midas
Guest
Only made a little progress over the past week/weekend. Was pulling long work hours most of the week and unfortunately caught a cold Thursday. Also had some welcome family visiting through the weekend.
The right switch box, throttle, grip and cables are reassembled and lubed. Still need a couple things before all the forward controls are ready to mount on the bar(haven't touched the MC yet).
I figured doing these few little things while I played with the seat pan plug was the best use of time. And I know once the motor is back in the frame, every day spent on finishing the little stuff will be torture!
Finally, the seat pan plug is ready for waxing, I think...
I hope all that time spent shaping the foam, plastering, sanding, priming, more sanding, painting, and more sanding and painting won't go to waste once the fiberglassing begins.ray:
Only wax I have on hand is the cheap Turtlewax in the green tub. Need to see what the local Ace or Home Depot has to offer. Don't think I'll find anyone around here who sells mold or parting wax off the shelf...
. The right switch box, throttle, grip and cables are reassembled and lubed. Still need a couple things before all the forward controls are ready to mount on the bar(haven't touched the MC yet).
I figured doing these few little things while I played with the seat pan plug was the best use of time. And I know once the motor is back in the frame, every day spent on finishing the little stuff will be torture!
Finally, the seat pan plug is ready for waxing, I think...
I hope all that time spent shaping the foam, plastering, sanding, priming, more sanding, painting, and more sanding and painting won't go to waste once the fiberglassing begins.
ray: Only wax I have on hand is the cheap Turtlewax in the green tub. Need to see what the local Ace or Home Depot has to offer. Don't think I'll find anyone around here who sells mold or parting wax off the shelf...
M
Mr.Midas
Guest
Found this cool mod while doing some unrelated searching... http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=135697
The amount of knowledge and ingenuity archived on this site is a testament to the dedication of the all the GS enthusiasts who have shared so much of their time and efforts to provide such a valuable resource to the less experienced(like me). I have been able to find so many answers and good ideas here!
Learning new tricks is awesome!
The amount of knowledge and ingenuity archived on this site is a testament to the dedication of the all the GS enthusiasts who have shared so much of their time and efforts to provide such a valuable resource to the less experienced(like me). I have been able to find so many answers and good ideas here!
Learning new tricks is awesome!
M
Mr.Midas
Guest
I was going to update last night, but was diverted by the welcome news report and subsequent Presidential address... so glad that that infamous terrorist is now history, and special thanks to the dedication and hard work of our military/spec ops/intelligence people!
Friday I finally began laying up fiberglass on the seat pan plug. To prep the plug, I settled on a few layers of an acrylic floor finish which I got free from my bro, and then two coats of turtle wax, leaving the second coat unbuffed. Also ran a strip of masking tap along the bottom edges to help with separation later on.
I have 3 layers so far, woven glass on the outer layers and spun glass in the middle. I did the first layer myself and almost screwed the whole thing up. :-& Even with all my pieces pre-cut and ready to go, I struggled to keep up with the pot life of the batches of resin I had going. Guess 80+ deg weather isn't the best for doing this kind of work.
I let the first layer cure out and then cleaned it up with a sanding disc and 60-80 grit paper, and then prepped for the second layer(the spun matting).
Luckily, I was able to acquire an assistant for the next to layers and things went much better. My helper mixed small(2-3 Tblsp) batches while I brushed, blotted, and dabbed my way from one end of the seat pan to the other. Every 4-5 batches I cleaned the chip brush I was using with acetone to keep it from stiffening up or leaving gelled resin clumps behind.
Looking much better after the second layer.
Finished up the third layer(with the woven mat), called it a night, and left it to set through Saturday. Then, late last afternoon began the extraction process...
More reinforcing and hardware mounting left to do.
I like how it's looking so far, and now I'm really tempted to mount cafe-style seat cushions on the pan instead of doing a fully upholstered seat. Suggestions welcome!
Friday I finally began laying up fiberglass on the seat pan plug. To prep the plug, I settled on a few layers of an acrylic floor finish which I got free from my bro, and then two coats of turtle wax, leaving the second coat unbuffed. Also ran a strip of masking tap along the bottom edges to help with separation later on.
I have 3 layers so far, woven glass on the outer layers and spun glass in the middle. I did the first layer myself and almost screwed the whole thing up. :-& Even with all my pieces pre-cut and ready to go, I struggled to keep up with the pot life of the batches of resin I had going. Guess 80+ deg weather isn't the best for doing this kind of work.
I let the first layer cure out and then cleaned it up with a sanding disc and 60-80 grit paper, and then prepped for the second layer(the spun matting).
Luckily, I was able to acquire an assistant for the next to layers and things went much better. My helper mixed small(2-3 Tblsp) batches while I brushed, blotted, and dabbed my way from one end of the seat pan to the other. Every 4-5 batches I cleaned the chip brush I was using with acetone to keep it from stiffening up or leaving gelled resin clumps behind.
Looking much better after the second layer.
Finished up the third layer(with the woven mat), called it a night, and left it to set through Saturday. Then, late last afternoon began the extraction process...
More reinforcing and hardware mounting left to do.
I like how it's looking so far, and now I'm really tempted to mount cafe-style seat cushions on the pan instead of doing a fully upholstered seat. Suggestions welcome!
M
Mr.Midas
Guest
Progress: Seatpan reinforced with cord ribbing and additional layer of spun glass; Seat latches set up and studs mounted to pan; Applied another layer of woven glass(that makes 5 layers total + ribbing); Rubber foot pad stand-offs glassed in; And foam seat-cushion layered up using neoprene and rebond foam... Just about ready for upholstery!
To make the spun mat conform better to the 1/4" cord ribbing, I lined the pan with some .7mil plastic after working the resin in and filled it up with water(notice the reflection from the water's surface).
Just realized I don't have pics of the latch mechanisms.
For the front latch I used a passenger release mechanism from a Suzuki
RF600 @ $6. The rear latch was fabbed up from scratch.
http://img845.imageshack.us/i/dscf5171.jpg/
To make the spun mat conform better to the 1/4" cord ribbing, I lined the pan with some .7mil plastic after working the resin in and filled it up with water(notice the reflection from the water's surface).
Just realized I don't have pics of the latch mechanisms.
For the front latch I used a passenger release mechanism from a Suzuki
RF600 @ $6. The rear latch was fabbed up from scratch.
http://img845.imageshack.us/i/dscf5171.jpg/
Very impressive craftsmanship Mr. M. Can't wait to see more. Work faster damnit!
Regarding the oil pump gears...good question. I'm inclined to say it's a good idea but I've also heard of people getting oil leaks with the gears too. Think I'd try it but know that you may wind up having to do engine gaskets.
Regarding the oil pump gears...good question. I'm inclined to say it's a good idea but I've also heard of people getting oil leaks with the gears too. Think I'd try it but know that you may wind up having to do engine gaskets.
M
Mr.Midas
Guest
I'll definitely have to try the ice chilling trick next time I glass again. I did notice that the cold water slowed the reaction down, but I never thought of pre-chilling the epoxy resin...
@Nessism,
I want to work faster too! Can't wait to be done with all the messy work. That seatpan was the worst with all the fiberglass dust & bits, resin fumes, foam rubber dust and smoke:-&. Been waiting to seriously clean up the shop once I'm done grinding on stuff... just a little more to get the Bandit swingarm cleaned up and shocks mounted.
Progress *should* quicken as I complete this more challenging stuff and move on to simple prep, paint, and assembly.
I'll have to see if I can find used oil pump drive gears. No way I'll pay what they want for them new. I'm familiar with this style of Mikuni pump(have a very similar one in my car, which I upgraded to a higher displacement pump from a turbo model when I rebuilt the engine). If I can't find the gears, at least I know how to check the original pump(and fix excessive side-clearance if needed)
@Nessism,
I want to work faster too! Can't wait to be done with all the messy work. That seatpan was the worst with all the fiberglass dust & bits, resin fumes, foam rubber dust and smoke:-&. Been waiting to seriously clean up the shop once I'm done grinding on stuff... just a little more to get the Bandit swingarm cleaned up and shocks mounted.
Progress *should* quicken as I complete this more challenging stuff and move on to simple prep, paint, and assembly.
I'll have to see if I can find used oil pump drive gears. No way I'll pay what they want for them new. I'm familiar with this style of Mikuni pump(have a very similar one in my car, which I upgraded to a higher displacement pump from a turbo model when I rebuilt the engine). If I can't find the gears, at least I know how to check the original pump(and fix excessive side-clearance if needed)
M
Mr.Midas
Guest
Double-checking measurements in fitting the ZRX shocks and Bandit swingarm offset.
I set up a rudimentary string(Spider Wire fishing line) center-line with the frame leveled side-to-side(going off the swingarm pivot). I really wish I had a set of tapered cones and drill-stock that I've seen used to establish the center of the steering stem, but I think it's pretty darn close with the plumb-bob I rigged up instead. It took me a while to get it "just right", and was rechecked several times throughout the process.
So to repeat/clarify, I have a CL string which lines up with the steering stem, front frame cross-brace, and the center of the centered swingarm pivot(which has been leveled side-to-side and agrees with most cross-points checked along the frame rails), along with plumb-bobs dropped from the steering stem and over the sides of each frame rail where the rear cowl/fender mounts. The rear axle bolt was installed without the wheel and torqued to 6-8 ftlbs.
And the swingarm offset is... When checking via center-line: 4.8mm leftward; When checking via plumb-lines off the rear frame rails: 4.4mm leftward. Varying the torque on the axle bolt only changed the swingarm width while the measured offsets remained the same.
From the info I've been able to glean from others the swingarm should only have 4mm of offset, so I'll double check my measurements and setup again to see if I could be off somewhere.
In order to make the shocks have the same inward leaning angle, it appears that I should be able to center the left shock mount and offset the right mount out to correspond with the offset in the left leg of the swingarm(just need to double-check sprocket/chain clearance).
Also, I was under the impression that the shock mounts needed to lean inwards slightly to match the inward leaning angle of the shocks, but with a couple washers on the upper shock studs, it appears that the mounts want to rest flat on the swingarm... Someone said the mounts needed to lean in something like 8deg.:-k
I set up a rudimentary string(Spider Wire fishing line) center-line with the frame leveled side-to-side(going off the swingarm pivot). I really wish I had a set of tapered cones and drill-stock that I've seen used to establish the center of the steering stem, but I think it's pretty darn close with the plumb-bob I rigged up instead. It took me a while to get it "just right", and was rechecked several times throughout the process.
So to repeat/clarify, I have a CL string which lines up with the steering stem, front frame cross-brace, and the center of the centered swingarm pivot(which has been leveled side-to-side and agrees with most cross-points checked along the frame rails), along with plumb-bobs dropped from the steering stem and over the sides of each frame rail where the rear cowl/fender mounts. The rear axle bolt was installed without the wheel and torqued to 6-8 ftlbs.
And the swingarm offset is... When checking via center-line: 4.8mm leftward; When checking via plumb-lines off the rear frame rails: 4.4mm leftward. Varying the torque on the axle bolt only changed the swingarm width while the measured offsets remained the same.
From the info I've been able to glean from others the swingarm should only have 4mm of offset, so I'll double check my measurements and setup again to see if I could be off somewhere.
In order to make the shocks have the same inward leaning angle, it appears that I should be able to center the left shock mount and offset the right mount out to correspond with the offset in the left leg of the swingarm(just need to double-check sprocket/chain clearance).
Also, I was under the impression that the shock mounts needed to lean inwards slightly to match the inward leaning angle of the shocks, but with a couple washers on the upper shock studs, it appears that the mounts want to rest flat on the swingarm... Someone said the mounts needed to lean in something like 8deg.:-k
G
Guest
Guest
I really dig how you're using stuff from other bikes and all the fab you're doing yourself, it's really unique! Looking forward to the updates...
