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4 1/2 year quest may be ending tomorrow

Sanded a few blemishes out and got the frame done. Switched gears and shot the swing arm and battery box too. Then painted the plastic tail section piece the license plate holder bolts to.

Got the Back To Black out and freshened the inner fender plastic up and it looks amazing now.

Next was to fully rewrap the entire wire harness. The PO had swapped out the original voltage regulator and had yellow wire nuts used as wire connectors so that was removed, shrink tubing slid over the wires and splices soldered. Shrink wrapped all so it looks decent.

Last order of business for the day was to strip and polish all the metal trims and repaint the inlaid lettering areas black again.
 
Got to get the engine installed and then everything else bolted back on. Have been working on the KZ 650 project in my other thread a little as of late. Too many projects running at the same time right now. This bike, the 76 KZ 650 project, and fixing the blown head gasket in my GL 1000!!! Gonna be a busy summer!!!
 
Still picking at the project here and there. Gotta get the time to fix a few more things and get the engine back in the frame and then get the rear end remounted. At least i got the starter motor cleaned up and painted this morning..HA HA. BIG GAINS!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Wow, that's just an amazing amount of work on that 650. I went as far as R/R the cam chain tensioner spring, which held up fine for about 1,000 miles, and then the whole tensioner, which is still doing fine. What a PITA. Bleeding those little hydraulic followers is such an odd operation! I know EXACTLY what you mean about that clip; mine jumped off and miraculously stuck to the oil on the cam chain tunnel wall. I retrieved it with a magnet and a ton of relief.

Anyway, I'm sure you've found this site:

My beloved '85 CB650SC (in my sig) has developed some type of engine chain noise + vibration when warm, and I'm almost certain it's the alternator chain slipper that is known to fail on these. Based on what I saw on the site in that link, I've decided it's time to part ways with the bike. I'm not going to split the cases -- too much involved with limited patience anymore. Bike still starts & runs great -- silky smooth -- but I know what lies ahead. So, it's awaiting a minor detailing before it winds up on eBay, with its ailment clearly stated.

Let me find the URL of the forum I've been a member of: Here ya go. . I'm 99% sure you've found both of those sites, but just in case. Anyhow, keep us up to date on this! This is major surgery for these little guys. I sure hope this works out for you.
 
The "rebuild in the dinning room" thread, wow opening the engine case in my domicile I would never do, or roasting the carbs in the oven. The stench of oil & gas permeating my house: no way! Cat hair would get all over it too.
I know a few members have done a rebuild in the house, but I'm reminded of Tom Cruise in War of the Worlds, having a Ford block in his kitchen.
 
Today i got a little more done. Stripped the tank, seat trim, and 1 side cover ( the other one is at the paint shop for color scanning ) and did all the body filler in and sanded nicely. Shot it all with primer and that is gonna set overnight and tomorrow will be sanding primer and touch up day. Should have paint early this coming week and then for some more painting fun.
 
Paint in the house!!! Tri coat paint job to ensue tomorrow. 2 coats of the Silver base, 2 coats of the Candy Red, and then 2 coats of clear.
 
Figgin got a run in the clear on the tank. Gonna have to let it set overnight and wet sand with some 800 and hope I can fix this. Other than that, alls going rather well.
 
Dale..overspray and orange peel..what grit paper to use to smooth things out before hitting with the polishing compound and buffer? OR..what would be the desired process for such operation. I was thinking sand the tank over its entirety with some super fine paper and then use the hand held buffer to rub it to a nice shine again???
 
That all depend on how bad the orange peel is to start with. If it's very rough you 'may' have to start with 800 grit. If not then maybe 1200 or 1500 depending on how things look. If it's really flat then you remove the imperfections with 3000 before compounding. Buff it out by hand if you can. Much less of a chance burning through the edges. 3M "perfect it" series is really nice stuff if your pocket book can afford it.
 
Very light but noticable....looking for the easiest way to get it down and then get to using the polish. I PMed a link to what i was thinking of using for the polishing aspect
 
Very light? 1500~2000 followed up with 3000. Polish with an ultra fine compound.

Be careful as you only applied two coats of clear.
 
Make sure you use a rubber sanding block when color sanding out the run, fingers alone can remove adjacent clear.
 
10-4 on the block sanding. Its such a small run but its there. You can see it and I just barely actually feel it when I run my finger across it.
 
You might try wrapping 1500 around a flat paint stick and use that instead of scraping it with a razor blade.
 
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