530 master link/chain question

[spwalker09]

The chain on my bike right now has a screwy long master link that's preventing me from attaching a chain guard to pass inspection. So yesterday I went out to the local shops to see if I could procure a master link to replace it with. The only shop that had them was a Harley shop. $5 later, I'm walking out with a 530 master link. Problem solved, right?

Well, when I got home I realized that the end plate doesn't go far enough in to reveal the grooves for the clip to go in. I thought it was maybe because the rods were bent, but it's because the plate holes are too small to fit past the initial chamfer in the rods. Anyone ever encounter this problem?

The chain is somewhat still useable (but the mileage on it is unknown...bike has 19k and has been sitting a while) and I would hate to drop money on a new one (it came with an o-ring chain so I'm inclined to replace it with an o-ring chain). But if I do end up just replacing the chain, does anyone have any suggestions where I can find a quality o-ring chain for less than $100? Right now I have my eye on a Tsubaki Omega 530 chain on bike bandit (because I want to buy some other stuff too like an oil filter and service manual, and I can't find that combo anywhere else).

Also, I see there are some lesser brand o-ring chains on ebay for $60 shipped, and while I'm tempted, I don't want to splurge unless I know people have run them without any problems. Anyone have any experience with those?

Thanks (sorry for the long post)

 

[hampshirehog]

Happens quite a bit. Take the link off the chain and push the plate on the pins one at a time, spinning it around as you do so. They are machined tight and sometimes they are just a smidge too tight.

 

[Nessism]

Each model chain typically has it's own specific master link because of dimensional issues like you noticed.

To judge if your chain is worth saving, measure the overall length and then calculate how much it's elongated. When the chain reaches a certain % of elongation it needs to be replaced. Sorry, but I don't know off hand how much elongation is allowable, but if you do a search here or on google I'm sure you can turn up the answer.

Regarding a decent quality O-ring chain, RK XSO530 for $86 at MAWonline... http://www.mawonline.com/newsite/rk-chains.htm#530XSO_RX_RING_CHAIN

 

[koolaid_kid]

The general rule of thumb is to have the chain adjusted correctly, then pull the chain at the back of the rear sprocket. If it pulls out more than 1/2" the chain is done. Most also change the sprockets with the chain, btw. An added expense in the short term, but long term both the sprockets and the chain will last longer.
Bike Bandit tends to be pricier than most; I would also look at babbitsonline and partshark. And if/when you purchase a new chain, get an extra masterlink or two, for the reason you have just encountered.

 

[spwalker09]

This is the problem link:

Thanks for the MAW link...I think I might just replace the chain anyway because its unknown and to take off the chain will likely destroy it (my cut-off wheel skills are good but not surgical).

Question: if I buy an o-ring chain with more links than necessary, will breaking the chain compromise the o-rings? theres an RK o-ring chain for $85 but its more links than I need (the right size is about 20 or so bucks more expensive)

 

[Nessism]

No worry. Shorten the chain and slam on the master link.

RK chains come with a rivet on master, which are the most secure type. If you want the type with a clip you need to order that seperate.

 

[spwalker09]

WHOA!

I totalled up the order and realized it was $40 in shipping charges. No way! Plus $13 for an oil filter...I don't think so

Oh well, I guess BB will be the way to go for me. I'll be back up and riding in a week or so (thats ok because I have some school work to tend to )

Thanks!!