Brakes, front tire, chain

[stossboss_gaming_and_news]

So while I wait for my tach cable I'm working on some other components that need love.

I changed brake fluid and the front brake is nice and firm but as I was looking for the leak in my front wheel, there is quite noticeable drag as I spin it - I don't think I did anything wrong replacing fluid but I hadn't tested it forehand. Is it most likely the caliper needs cleaning/rebuild?

As for my front wheel, I think I found the culprit as a pool of white foam builds up on a portion of the rim - it has always had a slow leak since I had it but I just filled it every time I rode. The tire is in serviceable shape otherwise, is it most likely that the bead is set badly or rim damage - if so will putting some sealant on that portion alleviate the problem or is that not recommended?

As for my chain... I'm confused because I thought the pins were supposed to roll around - about half do and half don't so I order a new chain + sprockets, I got the DID 630V pressfit and just was wondering if there's any special equipment needed to actually install the master link. I saw conflicting information about this on some sites and don't want to ruin a $150 part!

 

[stossboss_gaming_and_news]

I guess I can take the wheel off, break the bead and reseat and if it's in the same spot of the rim it's rim related, tire it's bead related and needs to be replaced?

 

[rphillips]

A little rubbing with steel wool may be a good idea while it's broke down. A little piece of dirt or corrosion can cause a small leak and may be easily removed with the steel wool.

 

[salty_monk]

If you have the stock brakes & you haven't rebuilt them and replaced the lines there will be all sorts of junk in there. By flushing the fluid you've probably also stirred it all up. There is also a pressure release hole that gets blocked in the master cylinder. Check yours is clear.

 

[stossboss_gaming_and_news]

If you have the stock brakes & you haven't rebuilt them and replaced the lines there will be all sorts of junk in there. By flushing the fluid you've probably also stirred it all up. There is also a pressure release hole that gets blocked in the master cylinder. Check yours is clear.

It is stock but I can tell it was worked on by the PO - the dust cover is glued together at points to mend tears and the piston has some damage. I don't know enough to determine if it's safe and I'm not taking that risk with my front wheel so I'm rebuilding it w new seals + a piston from brakemasters on ebay. And now you have convinced me to change the hose too but I had trouble finding a replacement, so I'll measure it out and ask if a store near me can make one. I also saw the DIY guide and some websites listed around on here if they only wanna work with a big money customer...

As for the pressure release hole - is it one (from riding position) on the left or right right beneath the looking glass (and if so which? just for my knowledge) or is it elsewhere?

 

[salty_monk]

It's in the bottom of the MC reservoir. You can only see it when you pull the lever. If those lines are stock they will be all rubber & have white writing on them with a date. You'll be surprised how much jelly like fluid/crud will be closing up the lines & stuck behind the pistons!

There are various sources for brake lines. There was a guy on here that did a good job, think he shipped them in from Canada. You should also be able to find a set at Z1 too. https://www.z1enterprises.com/

 

[stossboss_gaming_and_news]

It's in the bottom of the MC reservoir. You can only see it when you pull the lever. If those lines are stock they will be all rubber & have white writing on them with a date. You'll be surprised how much jelly like fluid/crud will be closing up the lines & stuck behind the pistons!

There are various sources for brake lines. There was a guy on here that did a good job, think he shipped them in from Canada. You should also be able to find a set at Z1 too. https://www.z1enterprises.com/

It could have been white lettering back in 1981 but its black now... Anyway got a hose made up at a shop near me. My MC res has two holes, one that pulls with the lever and another that appears to be clear and squirts some fluid out. Last question on calipers - is sil-glyde for the inside of those sliding bolts and a high-temp brake grease for the contact points alright? I couldn't find any copper grease anywhere which I saw was recommended. I don't know what im doing when it comes to chemicals.

 

[Nessism]

Your brake system is full of sludgy fluid and corrosion. If you read your factory Suzuki service manual (free download available), you will learn that Suzuki calls for regular service, and almost nobody does this. You would do well to perform a full system breakdown, and replacement of seals and brake lines.

 

[rphillips]

It would be interesting to know what % of average riders actually do the fluid flush stuff, and how often should be interesting. I'm totally guilty, just flushed my clutch hydraulic system, on my 2000 Kawa., as it left me stranded for not doing it.

 

[salty_monk]

Amazon (although I believe I have also seen it in O'Reilly at some point. Years ago I had my dad bring some over from the UK and it's still going......

https://www.amazon.com/COPASLIP-Hig...cphy=9031046&hvtargid=pla-2281435177338&psc=1

 

[rphillips]

That's looks like the stuff, just a bigger tube, that comes with many brake pads, in a little plastic or foil pouch, it says to rub on the back of the pads before installing.

 

[Shin-Ken 1074]

It would be interesting to know what % of average riders actually do the fluid flush stuff, and how often should be interesting. I'm totally guilty, just flushed my clutch hydraulic system, on my 2000 Kawa., as it left me stranded for not doing it.

I live in a very high humidity area and with brake fluid being hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air) I replace the brake fluid every 12 months, in March each year once Summer is over.

 

[rphillips]

Congrats Shin, I wish I did but I just put it off till something like replacing brake pads, or this clutch problems like I just had. Keep it up, no doubt the best thing to do.... In March each year once summer is over, you're on the wrong side of the world, over here, on the right side of the world it's In March each year once winter is over, summer is just about here.

 

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Congrats Shin, I wish I did but I just put it off till something like replacing brake pads, or this clutch problems like I just had. Keep it up, no doubt the best thing to do.... In March each year once summer is over, you're on the wrong side of the world, over here, on the right side of the world it's In March each year once winter is over, summer is just about here.

Thanks for the kind words. Yep, we are on the wrong side of the world and miles from everywhere, hhmmmm, not always a bad thing these days unless ordering parts from overseas when the cost of shipping and the time it takes for shipping to get here is a downer!

I have a maintenance routine for my vintage GS Suzuki's that has helped to keep them going for the last 45 years of riding with a minimum of issues. The three main areas that have helped are engine oil, brake fluid and fork oil. Keeping on top of these has I believe helped in contributing to the reliability and mileage my bikes have clocked up.

The GS1100G with 420,000 km, still with original factory clutch plates

A stock 1982 Kat 1100 with 318,000 km, still with original factory clutch plates.

The project 1981 Kat 1100 has 74,000 km on the clock but being a donor engine who knows what the genuine mileage is or clutch plate history?

Apart from the usual tinkering the routine for the fluids is:

Engine oil and filter change every 3,500 km,

Fork removal, strip down, clean, inspect and oil change every 10,000 km,

Brake fluid change every 12 months along with caliper cleaning and pin/slide lube.

Some of those intervals may seem extreme however, owning and riding Suzi's for over 45 years has provided me with enough evidence to be confident that I am doing the right thing for my bikes.