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G
ggreenfield
Guest
Got the license plate mounted
I may still move it out from under the tail a bit more but as it sits the plate light lights the plate perfectly.
I may still move it out from under the tail a bit more but as it sits the plate light lights the plate perfectly.
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ggreenfield
Guest
The seat pan.
I need to weld some brackets on the frame for the seat pan front tabs much like the OEM seat brackets but much smaller.
The outside edge of the seat pan sits above the side panels but inside the panels outer edges. Once the seat foam and covering are applied it should (hopefully) flush up rather nicely. My intention is to use some 1/4"x1/8" flat aluminum stock around the edges to hold the covering in place. I can likely bend the 1/4" stock to fit the curved cuts toward the front. The pan overlaps the outside edge of the frame so the 1/4" stock will also serve to keep the pan in place from the sides. I'll simply wrap the covering one or two times around the 1/4" stock on all four edges and run a 1/4" self tapper through the stock into the pan from the bottom. That should be easy enough to make taught and keep almost any kind of material in place as well as look really nice.
Picked up some camper cushions from a friend. They're in really great shape and I'm going to try and use those for the seat padding. I just need to come up with some covering material.
I need to weld some brackets on the frame for the seat pan front tabs much like the OEM seat brackets but much smaller.
The outside edge of the seat pan sits above the side panels but inside the panels outer edges. Once the seat foam and covering are applied it should (hopefully) flush up rather nicely. My intention is to use some 1/4"x1/8" flat aluminum stock around the edges to hold the covering in place. I can likely bend the 1/4" stock to fit the curved cuts toward the front. The pan overlaps the outside edge of the frame so the 1/4" stock will also serve to keep the pan in place from the sides. I'll simply wrap the covering one or two times around the 1/4" stock on all four edges and run a 1/4" self tapper through the stock into the pan from the bottom. That should be easy enough to make taught and keep almost any kind of material in place as well as look really nice.
Picked up some camper cushions from a friend. They're in really great shape and I'm going to try and use those for the seat padding. I just need to come up with some covering material.
Z
Zooks
Guest
People here have suggested before that wetsuit material would make a great cover (neoprene). Why not try this? Instead of stitching it you should use 'contact' adhesive (like upholsterers use) so it would be 100% waterproof when you finish.
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StrtLegal
Guest
Why not use marine grade vinyl if you want it water proof.
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ggreenfield
Guest
Hmm a waterproof seat.....I really like that idea. There is a dive shop in town (amazingly enough). I wonder if they would have an old wetsuit lying around? Hopefully it would not smell like a wet seal!
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StrtLegal
Guest
Neoprene is not water proof, it is actually designed to soak up water so your body heat, heats up the water inside the suit
I don't think you would want a waterproof seat unless you live in a rainy place, pretty uncomfortable to sit on after a while. Remember how you butt itches sitting in a boat seat for too long?
B
Bad Kaw
Guest
Hey, that's comin' out pretty nice.
Keep the pics comin'!
-KR
Keep the pics comin'!
-KR
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ggreenfield
Guest
Got the seat made. I can't say that I love it. It's ok..... I happened across some seat vinyl for $0 so I used it. Perhaps I'll take a second stab at covering the seat and try to make it look a bit more professional. For the time being it will have to do. I've also GIMPped on the completed tail compartment. I think it'll look great with a sligh arch from front to back.
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StrtLegal
Guest
Its looking really nice! A homemade cafe is always awesome. It really keeps with the spirit. Heres a shopped version of what mine will look like next week when I get a chance to finish it.
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groundshock
Guest
Must. See. Updates.
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ggreenfield
Guest
Not much in the way of visually noticeable updates this week BUT a big thanks is due to this forum and the stator papers and several other electrically related threads. As of last summer I had planned on buying a new R/R since the charging system mysteriously died. I say mysteriously because it was working just fine and then....my brand new battery kept dying and every 3rd day or so it had to go on the charger. So after procrastinating all winter this last Monday I finally sat down and disconnected, cleaned and greased each and every connector on the bike as well as grounding the R/R directly to the battery. No, I did not replace the bullet conenctors (still on the todo list) but what a difference it made! As per the stator papers, my charging voltage is now dead on. I haven't actually ridden anywhere yet (no headlight) but I'm hopeful that it was just a case of dirty old connectors and poor ground. After looking at the way the R/R was grounded to the same screw that mounted the R/R itself I had to wonder what they were thinking.
A $7 rotary tool (dremel) from Harbor Freight was all I used to clean the bullet connectors. The tool came with some skinny shafts that were perfect for getting all the way into the female connectors as well as cleaning up the males. A $9 can of dielectric grease w/ trigger & tube made it really easy to fill the connectors.
I've got a bead on an 8" Honda headlight and will be trading some work for it next weekend.
The tail section I have not yet gotten to my liking. I've made about 6 different mock-ups out of cardboard and none of them was exactly perfect. It's kind of tricky keeping the lines flowing just right. I'll be back at it this weekend and with any luck the tail will be together by end of next week.
Lastly, I finally bought some tires! I got a pair of Bridgestone S11 Spitfires from motorcycle-superstore.com for $116 shipped. A friend loaned me some tire levers so I'll also be pulling wheels and perhaps painting them this weekend. Tires won't arrive till next week sometime and I hope to only have to pay for balancing of each wheel.
Of course more pics will follow.
A $7 rotary tool (dremel) from Harbor Freight was all I used to clean the bullet connectors. The tool came with some skinny shafts that were perfect for getting all the way into the female connectors as well as cleaning up the males. A $9 can of dielectric grease w/ trigger & tube made it really easy to fill the connectors.
I've got a bead on an 8" Honda headlight and will be trading some work for it next weekend.
The tail section I have not yet gotten to my liking. I've made about 6 different mock-ups out of cardboard and none of them was exactly perfect. It's kind of tricky keeping the lines flowing just right. I'll be back at it this weekend and with any luck the tail will be together by end of next week.
Lastly, I finally bought some tires! I got a pair of Bridgestone S11 Spitfires from motorcycle-superstore.com for $116 shipped. A friend loaned me some tire levers so I'll also be pulling wheels and perhaps painting them this weekend. Tires won't arrive till next week sometime and I hope to only have to pay for balancing of each wheel.
Of course more pics will follow.
G
Guest
Guest
good work mr ggreenfield
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ggreenfield
Guest
Finished the rear fender. It's a 2 piece. I suppose it could easily be a single piece and perhaps in the future I will make it so. The stock mount for the tail section has simply been moved forward. I still need to weld it on. Think I'll also be extending the frame ends.
Here is a notch in the lower fender for the chain guard.
The 2 holes in the back section of the fender fit the stock mounting holes for the taillight. Note the new rubbah as well.
Hopefully tomorrow I have time to make the rest of the tail section and then I'm done with metal fabrication.
Here is a notch in the lower fender for the chain guard.
The 2 holes in the back section of the fender fit the stock mounting holes for the taillight. Note the new rubbah as well.
Hopefully tomorrow I have time to make the rest of the tail section and then I'm done with metal fabrication.
S
StrtLegal
Guest
Out of curiosity, what are you going to do about the seat lock? i am doing this exact same mod and I have everything figured out except that.
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ggreenfield
Guest
Once I make the forward part of the tail section it should be easy enough to reach inside and get a measurement from the top of the tail to the locking mechanism. Locking mechanism in the closed position of course. The latch will be basically the same as the OEM latch made from a heavy wire and bent or welded to a bracket that enables mounting under the new tail section. The bolts will be of the carraige variety. The carriage bolts could even be nutted on or tack welded so that they worked as studs.
The below view is looking into the tail from the front.
If you manipulate the locking mechanism you'll notice that it pulls the latch down and snugs it up. It'll probably take a few guesses to get the latch just the right length. It would likely be easiest to make it slightly short of your required length and use washers (as spacers) between the latch and tail to make adjustments. It should be possible to make it fit really nice.
I'll post some photos and measurements when I get it worked out. They'll be much more accurate than my crappy drawings.
I can't really visualize the mounting of the tail section at the front until I get the welding done. The seat pan I currently have will definitely have to be redone.
The latch will be basically the same as the OEM latch made from a heavy wire and bent or welded to a bracket that enables mounting under the new tail section. The bolts will be of the carraige variety. The carriage bolts could even be nutted on or tack welded so that they worked as studs. The below view is looking into the tail from the front.
If you manipulate the locking mechanism you'll notice that it pulls the latch down and snugs it up. It'll probably take a few guesses to get the latch just the right length. It would likely be easiest to make it slightly short of your required length and use washers (as spacers) between the latch and tail to make adjustments. It should be possible to make it fit really nice.
I'll post some photos and measurements when I get it worked out. They'll be much more accurate than my crappy drawings.
I can't really visualize the mounting of the tail section at the front until I get the welding done. The seat pan I currently have will definitely have to be redone.
B
bowzer
Guest
The more info and pics the better! I'm a week or two away from this myself.
G
ggreenfield
Guest
Round headlight
Round headlight
Got an 8" Honda headlight from an 81 Silver WIng GL500. It looks much better than the square one IMHO. Twas very simple to install with only a slight enlargement of the mount holes required in the brackets to accomodate the larger bolts.
I really like the look of the round headlight on StrtLegals bike (the whole gauge/handlebars area actually). Eventually I too will get rid of the OEM gauge cluster but the handlebars I currently have are actually quite confortable and the mirrors are in the perfect position. I think that'll stay as it is.
After a short ride today it has been determined that I need new rear shocks. They're now on the "list of things to do before I can ride" And it was soooo nice today. All the other kids were riding.
Round headlight
Got an 8" Honda headlight from an 81 Silver WIng GL500. It looks much better than the square one IMHO. Twas very simple to install with only a slight enlargement of the mount holes required in the brackets to accomodate the larger bolts.
I really like the look of the round headlight on StrtLegals bike (the whole gauge/handlebars area actually). Eventually I too will get rid of the OEM gauge cluster but the handlebars I currently have are actually quite confortable and the mirrors are in the perfect position. I think that'll stay as it is.
After a short ride today it has been determined that I need new rear shocks. They're now on the "list of things to do before I can ride" And it was soooo nice today. All the other kids were riding.
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StrtLegal
Guest
The guages on my bike are mounted to the same holes as the stock cluster was, so you cant use the handle bar excuse . They are pretty damn affordable too. The only downside is that the backlights don't match, but I think it just adds charater. Love the way the headlight looks on your bike, ten times better than the square one!
. They are pretty damn affordable too. The only downside is that the backlights don't match, but I think it just adds charater. Love the way the headlight looks on your bike, ten times better than the square one!
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