To answer your last question, yes, you always plug the vacuum nipple and you can use a fuel reservoir as long as it's venting well (just like your gas tank would).
And as for the air screws and thinking you were crazy, I told you over the phone that something had to be blocking the air. I wouldn't think that someone had introduced a huge intake leak :wink: . I did mention to be careful when installing the tools adapter tubes. Oh well, live and learn.
At least you now know the benefit of adjusting these screws for the highest rpm. The screws being adjusted is the only thing that's different from your first "successful" synch and road test, and the synch/test you just did.
After your first road test, you were excited about the performance. After this road test, you sound twice as excited. Before the last adjustments, I told you on the phone that your bike can run better, but you said you know what a good running 1000 feels like and this bike was awfully close to that feeling after the first synch. Your latest comments tell me I was right.
I have to believe your gas mileage and the heavy exhaust is going to improve significantly. With the air screws adjusted for highest rpm, the fuel is being atomized as it should at all 3 circuits. Before, the stream of mixture entering the carb throat was too solid. Unburned fuel just blew through the combustion chambers. Hydro-carbon heaven!
Now back to the jetting set up you have.
Because I can't see the plugs and ride the bike myself, I have to go by what you post. You're doing a good job, but nothing replaces being there. There's a chance that pilot screw adjustments will richen those lean plugs enough and help with that little low speed problem you mentioned. The pilot circuit does overlap the needle circuit. I hope we're at that point of the re-jet. At this point, if you've found the sweet spot on the air screws, do not touch them anymore. Only adjust the pilot fuel screws. The only time you should ever need to make a minor adjustment to the air screws is at higher elevations, if the bike is starting hard. An additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn out usually helps.
After pilot fuel screw adjustments, if the performance is still a bit off and/or the plugs are still lean at 2/3 during 1/3 throttle tests, then we'll have to go to the next step. This would be the opposite of trying to richen 2/3 with simple screw adjustments. This would mean raising the jet needles and then leaning out any rich reads at 1/4 with pilot fuel screw adjustments. We'll see. I'm just waiting to hear if the heavy exhaust/fuel smell has improved.
As I've said before, I'm still surprised the bike is running as good as you say while on the jet needles. The 4th position on the stock needles is lean from my past experience. As always, there must be a reason, but we'll worry about it if it comes up.
I always get several reads by the way. A lean running needle circuit is very deceptive. The leaner mixture will provide a lot of power, but the surging/hesitation that should accompany it may not be noticable to some riders. Always error on the rich side. After you're positive about the needle circuit, test for the main. From about 60 mph in 5th gear, the bike should roll on under full throttle without any noticable bogging. If it runs strong, you can go up to the next larger main if you want. The best main is the one that provides the highest top speed, WITHOUT causing any roll on bogging. Everday riding/passing performance is worth losing a couple of top end mph.
And be sure you remove those blasted float bowl tubes if you still haven't. The bowls will breath better and the jets will draw fuel correctly.
And as for the air screws and thinking you were crazy, I told you over the phone that something had to be blocking the air. I wouldn't think that someone had introduced a huge intake leak :wink: . I did mention to be careful when installing the tools adapter tubes. Oh well, live and learn.
At least you now know the benefit of adjusting these screws for the highest rpm. The screws being adjusted is the only thing that's different from your first "successful" synch and road test, and the synch/test you just did.
After your first road test, you were excited about the performance. After this road test, you sound twice as excited. Before the last adjustments, I told you on the phone that your bike can run better, but you said you know what a good running 1000 feels like and this bike was awfully close to that feeling after the first synch. Your latest comments tell me I was right.
I have to believe your gas mileage and the heavy exhaust is going to improve significantly. With the air screws adjusted for highest rpm, the fuel is being atomized as it should at all 3 circuits. Before, the stream of mixture entering the carb throat was too solid. Unburned fuel just blew through the combustion chambers. Hydro-carbon heaven!
Now back to the jetting set up you have.
Because I can't see the plugs and ride the bike myself, I have to go by what you post. You're doing a good job, but nothing replaces being there. There's a chance that pilot screw adjustments will richen those lean plugs enough and help with that little low speed problem you mentioned. The pilot circuit does overlap the needle circuit. I hope we're at that point of the re-jet. At this point, if you've found the sweet spot on the air screws, do not touch them anymore. Only adjust the pilot fuel screws. The only time you should ever need to make a minor adjustment to the air screws is at higher elevations, if the bike is starting hard. An additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn out usually helps.
After pilot fuel screw adjustments, if the performance is still a bit off and/or the plugs are still lean at 2/3 during 1/3 throttle tests, then we'll have to go to the next step. This would be the opposite of trying to richen 2/3 with simple screw adjustments. This would mean raising the jet needles and then leaning out any rich reads at 1/4 with pilot fuel screw adjustments. We'll see. I'm just waiting to hear if the heavy exhaust/fuel smell has improved.
As I've said before, I'm still surprised the bike is running as good as you say while on the jet needles. The 4th position on the stock needles is lean from my past experience. As always, there must be a reason, but we'll worry about it if it comes up.
I always get several reads by the way. A lean running needle circuit is very deceptive. The leaner mixture will provide a lot of power, but the surging/hesitation that should accompany it may not be noticable to some riders. Always error on the rich side. After you're positive about the needle circuit, test for the main. From about 60 mph in 5th gear, the bike should roll on under full throttle without any noticable bogging. If it runs strong, you can go up to the next larger main if you want. The best main is the one that provides the highest top speed, WITHOUT causing any roll on bogging. Everday riding/passing performance is worth losing a couple of top end mph.
And be sure you remove those blasted float bowl tubes if you still haven't. The bowls will breath better and the jets will draw fuel correctly.
:lol: 
:? 
I do a lot of riding over a ton almost all the time on these back roads here when I scoot alone. No one I ride with likes to move like that so I always have to enjoy that stuff when I am out by myself. I has been that way since my buddy I rode with in the early 90's sold his GPZ 
