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81 gs1100e - track day tuning -mid throttle

CincinnatiKid

Forum Mentor
hi i'm looking for more performance out of my 1981 gs1100e

ive had it for a number of years now, i'd say it runs at like an 8.5/10 now, I'm very happy with the engine performance on the street, I commute with it during the year.

here's my issue: I've had it on the track for track days twice this season, and I'm feeling very impatient during corner exit, waiting for the engine to catch up to my throttle hand. the exit drive takes way too long to build up. In both track days, I was on track with a modern ninja 400 and I couldn't pass him on the straights. I could outbrake him like crazy, and had way more corner speed than him, but in corner exit, his bike responded to his throttle input while mine just took too long to get up to speed. embarrassing!! the morning rules were "no passing in the corners" so I was kind of stuck behind him for a lap or two until i could get him on the brakes.

Just did a track day last monday and it was a Aprillia demo day and I was able to ride an RS660 for the last session of the day and it helped illustrate where the GS was lacking. I realize there are many factors at play here, so i'm not looking for a silver bullet, but mostly trying to solicit input from people who have gotten great mid throttle performance out of this engine.

a) Bike has 4 k&n pods on the intake, 4-1 hindle exhaust, stock engine and carb bodies. 47.5 pilot jet, 130 mains, needle from a dynojet stage 3 kit with the clip at the lower middle position (slot 3 of 6). Earlier this week I raised the needle up to the highest position (slot 1 of 6) to try to get a bit more out of the mid throttle, and it was practically unrideable, with off-idle response disappearing. holding steady speed was tough, power came back once i opened the throttle more.
It's difficult to tune the main jet where i live (city of chicago), no real safe places to rip this thing WOT consistently, so it sometimes feels subjective to make decisions on "is this better than it was before?"

b) could be a technical riding technique issue as well... i dont have a tach or a speedo but the engine takes time to build up speed when exiting a medium speed corner @ full throttle in third or second. obviously it's a bit better in second. generally I would try to stay in third and fourth through the track, third kept the revs up around 7k at the start of corner entry, i would guess. there's an absence of "snappy" pull in third or second, and definitely in 4th if i missed the downshift. can't imagine any midspeed corner on a track would be a first gear exit. (as an aside, that Aprillia had a quickshifter and holy shit what a cheater piece of technology that is!!)

c) clutch adjusted well. doesn't slip.

d) compression is good, i can get #'s to justify. leakdown test a month or two ago had great results (all cylinders in the 90% percentile).

e) would a new set of carburetors help inject some life into the engine? swapping the stock CV's for a non-CV type? obviously would still need to be tuned for high performance either way.

f) I might be able to find a shop in the chicago area that does dyno testing, I've thought about paying to have empirical testing confirm the best main jet size, and work the needle from there on my own. I called a few places this season already and they didn't want to deal with carburetors, would only deal with fuel injection & engine mapping. I get it.

g) through my time owning this 40 year old dinosaur, i've always wondered what the "good enough" point is, where I have to temper my expectations for performance. is this just the character of an inline 4? you gotta keep revs above 6k to make the thing pull off the corner? i know it's not a modern GSX-R and i shouldn't expect it to perform like one. I don't know how this bike rode in stock format in 1981, but I feel like I should have a lot more jump off the line and pull below 4k rpm... it's an 1100cc superbike!! but when a modern 400 is pulling a gap on me, i have to imagine that there's more power available, and I'd like to find it! i feel like i should be able to feel the front wheel getting light when smacking the throttle coming off a corner @ 40mph in 3rd gear. am i wrong?


thanks, hopefully this summer I can continue to dial it in with some forum wisdom! nobody i know has any experience tuning these machines. everyone i talk to has got their opinions, but no credibility to back it up!!!

CK
 
I am not very familiar with the GSX1100E, but i think it has double the power and torque as the Ninja 400 ...
(and double the weight probably :) )

I bought a Moto Martin GSX1100E some time ago and reading up on it before starting the project.
There's a cool article on a new one they tested back then, standard engine, 4-1, original carbs with larger main jets (145) and pod filters.
Reported to wheelie out of corners !

Think you may benefit from a Dynojet session.

These engines benefit from slotted cam sprockets and RS carbs, RS36 said to be optimal size.

They have a pressed crank that cannot handle much more tuning without welding the crank.

Still popular for classic racing and drag racing, i think others here can give you more/better info than i can ...

edit : 40mph in 3 ? Do you have standard gearing, i have a feeling the bike should do that in 1st or 2nd
 
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...40mph in 3 ? Do you have standard gearing, i have a feeling the bike should do that in 1st or 2nd

I have never ridden my '82 11E on a track, but I agree with Rijko. Yes, it pulls like a (fast) truck at 4k, but racing?!? 6k is where the music starts! And get yourself a tach!
 
Yes I have been searching for a decent tach for a while that doesn’t a) look dumb b) cost a fortune or b) work only sometimes. I have one in the garage that I need to install and try out soon, before the return policy expires!!

link up any recommendations, if you have any. I don’t have access to the mechanical tach anymore, plugged the hole. So electronic pickup/input is the only way for me.

And as far as my metrics about speed and/or rpm, the figures provided are not to be trusted as accurate, just estimates. Upon consideration, that 30mph is probably more like 50.

Time to buy some Jets… 145 is way bigger than what I have, I appreciate the reference point !! Also my gearing, I believe, is a tooth up in the front for torque, but I’d have to go count it, I replaced chain and sprockets at the end of last season with the tires.

thanks!!!
 
So for reference…
put a Dynojet stage 3 jet kit in a few years ago. Came with DJ130 and DJ132 mains. I ran the 132’s for a long time. This season I wanted to get back to a different baseline, and use mikuni jets (a bit cheaper for all the swapping I intended to do)

on this forum, I saw that people with pods and exhausts were speaking about having success running 127.5 mikuni mains, so I got a set of 127.5s and a set of 130s.

using the table on JetsRUs dot com, I see that those are both supposedly richer than the DJ132’s I had been using for a long time. Now this thread is mentioning as high as 140s. Strange that the Dynojet stage3 kit for a 80-81 gs1100e would spec such a lean jet for a open intake and hi flow exhaust.

i hate to spend another $100 on Jets (probably $25 per size, four sizes 132.5 135 137.5 and 140) but I guess that is what the next step might be!
 

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Also my gearing, I believe, is a tooth up in the front for torque...

Bigger front sprocket will lower your RPMs. Sounds like you might want bigger in the rear.

You keep talking about tuning and jetting, but I think it's your riding. I started riding big bore inline fours in 1979. Practically every ride is a race for me. Your red line is at 9k. Your maximum torque is about 6500 rpm, your maximum horsepower is about 8500. You get caught with your revs below 6k, you lose.
 
This is exactly the information I’m looking for. Thanks.
Definitely need to get a tach on there for some objective measurements. I do a lot of second guessing myself with an absence of any authoritative opinion. Best case scenario would be having someone like you around who could hop on the bike, rip it around, and offer context.

i am fully aware that my riding technique has tons of room to improve, but at the same time, while I’m not on track, I want to use my time to maximize the machine if there’s room to improve there, as well!!

i went out and tested that tach I had in the garage, but it is a piece of junk also. Doesn’t seem like it should be that hard to find one that works. 12v hot, switched and unswitched, ground, and a signal wire that is connected to one of the 2 ignition coil leads from the CDI….

re:sprockets yes thanks, I misspoke, but I did hear it for torque, it’s a 15t up front.
 
For track use time the cams at 106 inlet 108 exhaust lobe centers. This gives enormous midrange. In the past i've improved mid range response from the carbs by enlarging the vacuum holes in the bottom of the slides. Often with an aftermarket pipe the vacuum signal to the carbs changes and you have to retune to suit.
Larger holes will give a faster lift to the slides. Stock is usually 1.80mm. I go up in .05mm increments. But I have the drills....No idea how easy it is to get small metric drills in the US sorry. This info comes from many years roadracing the GSX1100's - in both stock and modified forms.
What you describe is the typical pipe and pods symptoms.
 
Been following and wondering why cam timing hasn't been brought up, For me, it did more for moving where the power was, in the rpm range, than anything else. It may sound odd, but after getting my cams set to 107 & 109, while just out riding, every now and then I'd back off the gas & pull up on the shifter just to be sure I was in 5th, it pulled like I was in 4 th. Don't see how you're trying to do what you are, without a tach. seems maybe for less effort than spent on electric, unplug tach dr. hole, or get another cam cover, install a cable and tach. and move on... Good luck
 
seems maybe for less effort than spent on electric, unplug tach dr. hole, or get another cam cover, install a cable and tach. and move on... Good luck


thanks that hadn’t crossed my mind but I can definitely go back to a cable setup, and mechanical drive tachs are available for sure, no monkey business.
[edit: ordered cable and mechanical tach]


the carb slides have been drilled out at least a little bit when that stage 3 kit went in, a drill bit came with the jet kit. Don’t know the dimension off the top of my head though.


truly appreciate everyone offering their input.
It seems that the bike definitely needs to be ridden more aggressively in the appropriate rev range, but also that there is more power to be unlocked, though not as simply as better technical riding skills would offer. Difficult to practice keeping revs up on the street when commuting, it seems very EXTRA to ride that thing around just howling, but in the name of forward progress, I’m willing to irritate some strangers.

i ordered some 140 Jets, let’s see how it affects the tune. In the meantime I can find time/place to do one main jet plug chop. The plugs have looked nicely light tan when I recently examined them but I know that’s not speaking to any particular circuit.
 
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rode from chicago to iowa last weekend. running i-88 the whole way allowed me to do some plug chops and see what condition my condition was in:

https://youtu.be/kNrp5U_yZcA

thoughts? to me it looks equally lean on both runs.
i did a chop after about 30 miles straight @ 1/2 throttle, and another one a bit later after running wide open 5th gear for about a minute or so.
this is still with 130 main jets in, clip in middle position. 140 jets are coming soon.
 
The main jet affects the full spectrum so you may need to adjust the needles & the pilots again after fitting them....

One other thing you can also look at is float height, that can also affect the full spectrum. :)
 
Definitely. I often refer back to the FactoryPro cv carb tuning reference, where they recommend starting w getting the main jet correct first before tuning the lower circuits, definitely makes logical sense.

my float heights are dead on spec, as measured with a calipers, I haven’t confirmed with a wet test.

a fun surprise was that when I bought jets I did future me (present me?) a favor and got a set of 135s as well as the 140s. So I have 130s in there now, and can test two options instead of just one.

it will need to wait a week or so for new throttle cables… riding yesterday, the throttle cable melted itself from the inside out near the triple clamps and is frozen in the sheath. Big mystery there. Was able to get it home but haven’t dug into it yet… electrical short? So strange
 
Put 140 mains in. Started it and ran it. It was starting to rain so i didn’t get a chance to open the gas up at all. tomorrow.

Found the throttle cable melting culprit. For some reason, the 12v supply spade terminal on my turn signal relay melted itself out of the relay itself and the hot wire came to rest on the carburetor mounting rail, as pictured. That must have energized the carb bodies and then the throttle cable by extension. Oddly the lighting fuse didn’t blow, and no other electrical faults are obvious…
 

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140’s!!!!!

inital test ride on the interstate says WOW speed and pull! Need to look towards the low-end richness… it’s a bit stumbly when snapping the gas open off the line.

having a tach is nice!!!!
 
Pulled the plugs expecting to see them looking richer, but they looked basically the same as before the 140 jets. Just checked them in the garage, cold engine…. Not sure if that test means anything if it’s not a proper plug chop.

Might try up another size?? Speed costs money but $4 per jet is stacking up slowly but surely!!

______


An aside: off thread focus, the zuki left me stranded at peak rush hour on a busy Chicago interstate interchange near downtown (290 out of downtown, just under the renovated us post office building… if you’re familiar). All spark lost. Crank, no start. Lights ok. Full tank of gas. No tools. Awesome.
happened unexpectedly in early June about 160 miles from home in Wisconsin but spark came back about 30 sec after it left, I didn’t even come to a stop, and it never happened again until a few days back.

got the Moto ambulance, made it back to the bike, let in, started right up. Carted it home, still starts, haven’t ridden it since. I suspect CDI advance unit. Just fought through diagnosing a shot, intermittent cdi unit on a 87 kawi 500 ninja a few months ago.

had a Dynatek S ignition sitting in new in box for a few years that I didn’t end up needing (new coils fixed it), but in order to run it, I found out yesterday after opening the box, I need to source a centrifugal spark advancer plate from a pre-80 gs1000.

anyone got a lead?
 
New ignition in, secondhand advancer installed.
timing shows accurate with the gun for both coils, but I had to really go to the limits of the adjustment on the Dyna pickup plate to get both pickups to register @ the right times. Made me suspicious. So far so good though

Had a small gasket leak on the stator cover that turned into a full stator and R/R replacement. Hopefully for the last time.

i have 145’s in there now, have taken a ride to work with them, but haven’t checked wot performance yet. I dropped the needle down one clip position preemptively, helped keep the midrange drivable. Pilot seems rich at this time but I’m going to leave it along until the needle and main gets set.

I think stock size pilots are in there now (27.5??)
any precedent for people having to use one size down from stock after going up on the mains?
 
Mains: 145
needle: dynojet needle at the 4th slot from the bottom (a bit leaner than middle)
pilots: 47.5
idle screw: 2.5 turns out

hindle 4-1 stainless exhaust
k&n pod filters

this is the best the engine has ever run, and I can’t imagine needing more from it for my street riding

thanks
 
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