G
Guest
Guest
I've been having a really hard time finding that double can compound. All I've ever found was the Pernatex stuff and I found it was too corse.
Does anyone still sell it ?
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81 GS550T Full Rebuild...In Ohio
- Thread starter cowboyup3371
- Start date
I've been having a really hard time finding that double can compound. All I've ever found was the Pernatex stuff and I found it was too corse.
Does anyone still sell it ?
The coarse grit lapping paste like the Permatex stuff breaks down really quickly into fine so you only need one.
There is no need to buy new valves unless they are really damaged (most often because some idiots think valve adjustment is optional). If the valves are pitted, find someone with a valve grinding machine and get the faces dressed. They will look like brand new for something like $5-7 each.
There is no need to buy new valves unless they are really damaged (most often because some idiots think valve adjustment is optional). If the valves are pitted, find someone with a valve grinding machine and get the faces dressed. They will look like brand new for something like $5-7 each.
L
loud et
Guest
I know I tend to obsess, as many of us do, especially when we are new to working of our beloved GS's. Especially when we are new to a particular procedure....Like Ed said, I looked at my valves and seats and saw no chipping, cracks, or any other defect that really jumped out. So I just lapped real quick for a cleaning and fine tuning and am happy with that.
I used this.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N0408_-1_-1&pt=N0408&ppt=C0139
Lap, clean, assemble, be happy
I used this.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N0408_-1_-1&pt=N0408&ppt=C0139
Lap, clean, assemble, be happy
I know I tend to obsess, as many of us do, especially when we are new to working of our beloved GS's. Especially when we are new to a particular procedure....Like Ed said, I looked at my valves and seats and saw no chipping, cracks, or any other defect that really jumped out. So I just lapped real quick for a cleaning and fine tuning and am happy with that.
I used this.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N0408_-1_-1&pt=N0408&ppt=C0139
Lap, clean, assemble, be happy
Thanks Loud et, that's what I ended up picking up today so I'll just be trying the fine grit as I don't believe I'll have much to worry about.
Today was cleaning day again; Charmayne and I took the cylinders, head, and valve cover out to the base to dip in their parts cleaner. We got most of the easy stuff off but there's still plenty of varnish and baked on grease/oil/grime that needs coming off. I also picked up a couple of small dremel wire wheels to use on them and hope I can get it ready for paint in the next couple of weeks. Sorry for the picture quality but I just had the phone today and not the good camera.
While i cleaned, Charmayne dried things off for me using the air compressor. She realized the power of that compressor when she blew some of the brushes off the table without meaning too
.
Here's the cylinders:
Head
We will work on doing more fine work at the house and then take it back to the base after we are done. They also have a sandblasting cabinet that should be connected in the next month or two. It's a small one, can't handle the frame, but I think it will work on the engine pieces.
Also, while we were out there, the other kids cleaned up parts for me here. Paul was really excited when I left the parts for him and, from what I understand, was upset when he was done. Here's him playing around afterwards pretending he was riding.
Scott,
Keep that cylinder head out of the blast cabinet. There are too many oil passages that can not be reached to clean out the grit so please don't be tempted.
Looking good so far.
Thanks Ed will do. I'll go find some other suggestions then for cleaning up those pieces better so I prep them for paint.
More Cleaning
More Cleaning
After a long week of late nights at work, I finally got out to the garage again today. I poured some simple green into a container with two gallons of water and let pieces soak for a bit.
Then I started taking the brushes to each piece. The cylinders look a bit better but I need to go get a gun cleaning brush for some of the harder to reach areas. I did run through a bunch of qtips and will do more with that after another couple of cleaning sessions.
But I noticed some rust marks (??) inside the sleeves. I think it will be a simple job of using the hone brush and some oil to clean them up right?
After some time with that, I started in on the head. I took my 1" brass wire cup brush and chucked it into the drill and managed to get the valve area looking a little better.
Cylinder 1
2
3
and 4
I'm a little nervous about going too much further with the brush in the drill but I also think that's the only way I'm going to get it much cleaner before I do the lapping. What do you all think?
Well, off to Walmart to get that gun brush.
More Cleaning
After a long week of late nights at work, I finally got out to the garage again today. I poured some simple green into a container with two gallons of water and let pieces soak for a bit.
Then I started taking the brushes to each piece. The cylinders look a bit better but I need to go get a gun cleaning brush for some of the harder to reach areas. I did run through a bunch of qtips and will do more with that after another couple of cleaning sessions.
But I noticed some rust marks (??) inside the sleeves. I think it will be a simple job of using the hone brush and some oil to clean them up right?
After some time with that, I started in on the head. I took my 1" brass wire cup brush and chucked it into the drill and managed to get the valve area looking a little better.
Cylinder 1
2
3
and 4
I'm a little nervous about going too much further with the brush in the drill but I also think that's the only way I'm going to get it much cleaner before I do the lapping. What do you all think?
Well, off to Walmart to get that gun brush.
G
Guest
Guest
After washing, keep those cylinders oiled inside and out!! The rust marks will go away after you wash and wipe them with WD40. Then apply some engine oil.
Same for the head. Keep the valve guides oiled!!
Some spray nine and a coper wire brush worked well for me on the combustion chamber.
Let it soak in a few minutes, respray and start brushing again. The carbon comes off a little at a time but the brush takes it off just fine without damaging anything.
Same for the head. Keep the valve guides oiled!!
Some spray nine and a coper wire brush worked well for me on the combustion chamber.
Let it soak in a few minutes, respray and start brushing again. The carbon comes off a little at a time but the brush takes it off just fine without damaging anything.
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Just so I understand, I'll spray down both sides of the cylinder sleeves with WD40 and then wipe them down with a light coat of oil?
How do I oil the valve guides?
G
Guest
Guest
Wipe the rust off with Wd 40 a rag and when the rag comes clean coat with oil.
Aanything to get a coat of oil on it. Wd 40 is good for cleaning and the oil is to keep it from rusting again. You can just oil after washing before it starts to rust next time.
Q tips work for getting into the guides.
Aanything to get a coat of oil on it. Wd 40 is good for cleaning and the oil is to keep it from rusting again. You can just oil after washing before it starts to rust next time.
Q tips work for getting into the guides.
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It's OK to clean the cylinders with it, but do NOT use the WD-40 as a rust preventative. It will eventually cause rust in the cylinder.
Thank you for the information guys. I did some more cleaning today and made sure I oiled the cylinders before coming back in (didn't do the valve guides but will later this week).
Wiping the WD40 down first and then the oil
Here's where the cylinders are at today.
And the head
I think they are looking pretty good but there's enough scraped away paint that I'm not sure. Can anyone tell me what to look at to know if they are ready for primer and repainting?
Is there any other prep work I should do? I know there are areas I can't get a brush into nor can someone see deep into the recesses but I don't want to do a crappy job either.
Wiping the WD40 down first and then the oil
Here's where the cylinders are at today.
And the head
I think they are looking pretty good but there's enough scraped away paint that I'm not sure. Can anyone tell me what to look at to know if they are ready for primer and repainting?
Is there any other prep work I should do? I know there are areas I can't get a brush into nor can someone see deep into the recesses but I don't want to do a crappy job either.
Spent the day cleaning off the engine cases and really starting to miss my air compressor already. I'm hoping I can paint tomorrow since that will be the last warm day for the next two weeks but I'm not positive as there's still alot of grime to go.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Just mask off all that blue stuff on the right side of the picture. :-\\\
Can anyone tell me what to look at to know if they are ready for primer and repainting?
.
I didn't post any pictures last night as I didn't really have them ready but here's where I'm at.
Pistons are all cleaned up after soaking in carb dip for about 24 hours each.
Here's the engine so far. I had to use ALOT of q-tips to clean out the grease and oil and still have quite a bit to go. I'll probably remove the oil pan to get into the crevice between it and the cases. Course, I'm also kicking myself in the butt for not removing the front sprocket before pulling the engine out. But I'm cleaning around it.
I haven't decided which way I'll go with the engine color yet (still torn between aluminum and black) but the covers will be redone regardless.
Pistons are all cleaned up after soaking in carb dip for about 24 hours each.
Here's the engine so far. I had to use ALOT of q-tips to clean out the grease and oil and still have quite a bit to go. I'll probably remove the oil pan to get into the crevice between it and the cases. Course, I'm also kicking myself in the butt for not removing the front sprocket before pulling the engine out. But I'm cleaning around it.
I haven't decided which way I'll go with the engine color yet (still torn between aluminum and black) but the covers will be redone regardless.
Glass Busted
Glass Busted
I tried removing the glass from the speedometer today to clean the inside of it. Following Ed's procedures about using a small screwdriver and prying up the ring, I actually got most of it done. Unfortunately, as I pried in the last section, the glass cracked the length of the speedometer.
So now I have to try repairing it by finding new glass. I'm also going to need to find new rubber as well as the cement used to glue the rubber to the metal ring.
You can barely see the crack because of where I took the picture but it's there
Prying out the metal ring that sits on top of the glass but under another rubber ring
Here's the glass fully out of the metal ring. I had to break some more of it to get pliers under and separate the rubber from the epoxy holding it
Hopefully I'll be able to get the tach one apart without the drama.
ray:
Glass Busted
I tried removing the glass from the speedometer today to clean the inside of it. Following Ed's procedures about using a small screwdriver and prying up the ring, I actually got most of it done. Unfortunately, as I pried in the last section, the glass cracked the length of the speedometer.
So now I have to try repairing it by finding new glass. I'm also going to need to find new rubber as well as the cement used to glue the rubber to the metal ring.
You can barely see the crack because of where I took the picture but it's there
Prying out the metal ring that sits on top of the glass but under another rubber ring
Here's the glass fully out of the metal ring. I had to break some more of it to get pliers under and separate the rubber from the epoxy holding it
Hopefully I'll be able to get the tach one apart without the drama.
ray:
Well, this sucks. I'm now in the market for both sets of clocks as I busted both needles tonight trying to pry them off. The first repainting job I attempted didn't turn out so well so I thought I'd try to use model thinner on them. As that wasn't working great trying to rub it on, my next thought was to pry the needles off. Sadly, the speedometer one busted in half before I could get the entire needle off. Then, seeing how that one came off I figured I'd try on the tach...yep, that needle is busted too.
Definitely learning something - stop trying to do things myself......even if others have done it right.
So now I'm shopping for full clocks and not just the glass.
Definitely learning something - stop trying to do things myself...
...even if others have done it right.So now I'm shopping for full clocks and not just the glass.
Besides talking with Oshkosh about his clocks, I haven't had a chance to do much else on the bike. However, I finally have a close to proper home made paint booth. Following some basic ideas found on a painting website, I have this 6x6x6 foot booth of PVC and plastic. I'll still need another sheet to cover from front to back but it's done for the most part.
It's not the world's best booth as my helper left before I had the plastic sheeting finished and taped but I think it will work out. I'm only going to paint the engine, tank, and covers in it.
Since it's also turning winter and the garage was a toasty 44* this afternoon, I know I'll need to raise the temperature some. As I only am planning on heating the paint booth area, I'm going to try out this electric space heater.
Besides the plastic, I need to go get a fire extinguisher and respirator before I can even start testing things. But hopefully, I will have a good looking engine soon.
It's not the world's best booth as my helper left before I had the plastic sheeting finished and taped but I think it will work out. I'm only going to paint the engine, tank, and covers in it.
Since it's also turning winter and the garage was a toasty 44* this afternoon, I know I'll need to raise the temperature some. As I only am planning on heating the paint booth area, I'm going to try out this electric space heater.
Besides the plastic, I need to go get a fire extinguisher and respirator before I can even start testing things. But hopefully, I will have a good looking engine soon.
D
D-Mac
Guest
I'm really enjoying this thread. It's like re-living my last summer. 
To chime in on a couple of issues that have been discussed....My opinions only (although these topics have been covered in motorcycle engine rebuilding classes I've taken).
I've used Prussian Blue and a black sharpie to mark valves. Personally, I like the sharpie method better (less messy). I know professionals who endorse both methods.
You don't need to get the combustion chamber sparkly clean. The extra carbon only adds compression anyway Lapping the valves will clean out any crud there. Nothing wrong with gentle cleaning though - just stay away from harsh brushes, or anything that might damage the valve seats.
You don't want to be cutting valve seats unless you know exactly what you are doing. Lapping is almost always all that's required. I agree with earlier posts that lapping doesn't have to be excessive, and it only serves to clean valve faces/seats. Lap a little and then install the intake/exhaust valves and make sure they seal (put some kerosene in the combustion chamber and leave it for 8-12 hours). Or tilt the engine on its side and put a little kerosene in either the intake or exhaust side (behind a valve) to check just one valve.
As for the cylinders - do keep them oiled. You do NOT need to re-hone them (that can remove a lot of material). As long as the bores measure OK, you just need to **de-glaze** them (you want to do that to restore a nice cross-hatch). Just use a hand drill and attachment for this (I don't know where you buy them as I borrowed one from a shop). You move in and out of the cylinder to control the cross hatch angle, and use lots of lubricant as you do it. There's a pic of me doing it in my 550 thread. Although I had faint cross-hatching already in the cylinders, it made a big difference in how my cylinders looked after I did it (cross-hatching was much clearer when I finished). I could have run the bike without deglazing, but the rings would like take longer to seat. De-glazing removes almost no material, so it's safe to do. It is also useful for removing the edges on the cylinders caused by rings that have been sitting there for a long time.
To chime in on a couple of issues that have been discussed....My opinions only (although these topics have been covered in motorcycle engine rebuilding classes I've taken).
I've used Prussian Blue and a black sharpie to mark valves. Personally, I like the sharpie method better (less messy). I know professionals who endorse both methods.
You don't need to get the combustion chamber sparkly clean. The extra carbon only adds compression anyway
Lapping the valves will clean out any crud there. Nothing wrong with gentle cleaning though - just stay away from harsh brushes, or anything that might damage the valve seats.You don't want to be cutting valve seats unless you know exactly what you are doing. Lapping is almost always all that's required. I agree with earlier posts that lapping doesn't have to be excessive, and it only serves to clean valve faces/seats. Lap a little and then install the intake/exhaust valves and make sure they seal (put some kerosene in the combustion chamber and leave it for 8-12 hours). Or tilt the engine on its side and put a little kerosene in either the intake or exhaust side (behind a valve) to check just one valve.
As for the cylinders - do keep them oiled. You do NOT need to re-hone them (that can remove a lot of material). As long as the bores measure OK, you just need to **de-glaze** them (you want to do that to restore a nice cross-hatch). Just use a hand drill and attachment for this (I don't know where you buy them as I borrowed one from a shop). You move in and out of the cylinder to control the cross hatch angle, and use lots of lubricant as you do it. There's a pic of me doing it in my 550 thread. Although I had faint cross-hatching already in the cylinders, it made a big difference in how my cylinders looked after I did it (cross-hatching was much clearer when I finished). I could have run the bike without deglazing, but the rings would like take longer to seat. De-glazing removes almost no material, so it's safe to do. It is also useful for removing the edges on the cylinders caused by rings that have been sitting there for a long time.
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