G
Guest
Guest
Good work Scott! She'll be together in no time now 
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81 GS550T Full Rebuild...In Ohio
- Thread starter cowboyup3371
- Start date
M
mike_of_bbg
Guest
Looks great, Scott. Almost makes me want to take my engine out and polish and paint the old girl. Almost.
Your outer cylinders don't need to be at TDC for head placement. Trying to do so can shift your cylinders, which is not a really big deal I suppose. Dunno, if I felt like I got all the O-rings seated right I'd probably not risk any disturbance. Anyway, you can get the head bolted on, without cams the valves will all be closed so no interference worries. After it's torqued down you can then put the cyls in position for cam installation.
Your outer cylinders don't need to be at TDC for head placement. Trying to do so can shift your cylinders, which is not a really big deal I suppose. Dunno, if I felt like I got all the O-rings seated right I'd probably not risk any disturbance. Anyway, you can get the head bolted on, without cams the valves will all be closed so no interference worries. After it's torqued down you can then put the cyls in position for cam installation.
J
JvZ
Guest
Looking good!
I was able to take a couple of hours this evening and get over to the garage. Things went fairly smoothly as best I could tell so far and I'm finally able to see an engine in my frame again.:clap: I first put a new gasket under the oil pressure switch but couldn't find the new screws I thought I bought for it so I'll need to run over to Ace Hardware this week for them. Then it was off to the engine.
I threw the front Cam Chain guide in first; it took some doing but it's sitting in there.
I realized later I had put it in too early so I redid it after putting the head on and it slid into place much easier.
I then set the number 1 and 4 pistons to TDC and put the new oring in the center groove and head gasket in place. Does the marking look correct to everyone?
Put the head on and placed the nuts on the studs barely even finger tight as I can still move them off. I didn't want to torque anything down yet until I could verify I did this right.
I didn't realize until tonight that the head had gotten as dirty as it did again. Using the air compressor, I blew away the big chunks but it looks like I need to grab a rag and wipe things down again.
Here you can see the marking for the number 1 piston through the spark plug hole
I didn't install the cams as I really needed the service manual and my previous pictures with me before doing much more but forgot the laptop. I'll be back to it later this week after my daughter's surgery.
I threw the front Cam Chain guide in first; it took some doing but it's sitting in there.
I realized later I had put it in too early so I redid it after putting the head on and it slid into place much easier.
I then set the number 1 and 4 pistons to TDC and put the new oring in the center groove and head gasket in place. Does the marking look correct to everyone?
Put the head on and placed the nuts on the studs barely even finger tight as I can still move them off. I didn't want to torque anything down yet until I could verify I did this right.
I didn't realize until tonight that the head had gotten as dirty as it did again. Using the air compressor, I blew away the big chunks but it looks like I need to grab a rag and wipe things down again.
Here you can see the marking for the number 1 piston through the spark plug hole
I didn't install the cams as I really needed the service manual and my previous pictures with me before doing much more but forgot the laptop. I'll be back to it later this week after my daughter's surgery.
Although I've been cleaning carbs this past week, I didn't have a chance to make it over to work on the bike until yesterday. But after my youngest step-son's baseball game, I left everyone and put in a few hours or so.
First off, I torqued down all of my head bolts to 17.5 ft lbs (specs are 16.5 to 19.5) since my beam torque wrench only reads in 2.5 increments. I then replaced a couple of frame mounting bolts and applied blue threadlocker to all of those brackets. I'll still need to torque down the actual engine mounting bolts in the next few days or so.
Then came time to start working on the cams. I decided to remove the signal generator plate to find my timing mark but discovered there isn't one behind it to line up the T/F marks. Instead, Suzuki put it behind the top mounting screw head:
After taking this picture I saw I had the bracket misaligned too far to the left and readjusted it but it still shows where to look. I also realized this morning the line above the screw hole might also be the mark I needed but always thought it was just part of the casting. I don't understand why Suzuki did that nor why it's not better specified in the service manual but okay...
I then placed the exhaust cam in its spot. Although I got the 20 pins between cams, I did so incorrectly because of where i had the exhaust cam pointing. I would line it up correctly when I put it in but once I installed the intake it would pull it back to where you see it here. This would be fixed later after I questioned myself on how to install the cam caps as one side's cam cap wouldn't seat directly onto the holes and I thought I was doing it wrong.
After a couple of hours of staring, trying a couple of ideas and about at my point of frustration, I called Steve for assistance. Once he arrived, he fixed my exhaust cam by moving it one tooth in the chain. This is something I'd tried but every time I did it, it would move a lot more than just one. Essentially, I was moving it incorrectly to get the desired result and I should have just worked the cam differently. He then showed me how to put the caps in place by just tightening them down. For those who may read this, don't be fooled by the idea the cap must sit directly onto the pins before you put in place. The tightening of the cap will draw it down to where it is supposed to be. Had I just trusted myself and ignored the "misalignment", I would have been fine with that.
Here's how the cams now look:
I also installed my stator cover with a new decal but didn't get a picture of it yesterday. It looks nice but I could do a better job in the polishing department.
First off, I torqued down all of my head bolts to 17.5 ft lbs (specs are 16.5 to 19.5) since my beam torque wrench only reads in 2.5 increments. I then replaced a couple of frame mounting bolts and applied blue threadlocker to all of those brackets. I'll still need to torque down the actual engine mounting bolts in the next few days or so.
Then came time to start working on the cams. I decided to remove the signal generator plate to find my timing mark but discovered there isn't one behind it to line up the T/F marks. Instead, Suzuki put it behind the top mounting screw head:
After taking this picture I saw I had the bracket misaligned too far to the left and readjusted it but it still shows where to look. I also realized this morning the line above the screw hole might also be the mark I needed but always thought it was just part of the casting. I don't understand why Suzuki did that nor why it's not better specified in the service manual but okay...
I then placed the exhaust cam in its spot. Although I got the 20 pins between cams, I did so incorrectly because of where i had the exhaust cam pointing. I would line it up correctly when I put it in but once I installed the intake it would pull it back to where you see it here. This would be fixed later after I questioned myself on how to install the cam caps as one side's cam cap wouldn't seat directly onto the holes and I thought I was doing it wrong.
After a couple of hours of staring, trying a couple of ideas and about at my point of frustration, I called Steve for assistance. Once he arrived, he fixed my exhaust cam by moving it one tooth in the chain. This is something I'd tried but every time I did it, it would move a lot more than just one. Essentially, I was moving it incorrectly to get the desired result and I should have just worked the cam differently. He then showed me how to put the caps in place by just tightening them down. For those who may read this, don't be fooled by the idea the cap must sit directly onto the pins before you put in place. The tightening of the cap will draw it down to where it is supposed to be. Had I just trusted myself and ignored the "misalignment", I would have been fine with that.
Here's how the cams now look:
I also installed my stator cover with a new decal but didn't get a picture of it yesterday. It looks nice but I could do a better job in the polishing department.
No pictures tonight but I did get some work accomplished. I replaced the starter to solenoid cable with a new 8 gauge wire and connectors from OReillys. It was nice to have the same cable for $6 compared to the $40 OEM price. The old one was burnt enough at the connectors that I just figured I'd replace it since everything is looking nice.
I also picked up new screws for the clutch cover and installed it with a new gasket. I just have to remember I don't have any oil in the engine yet.
Finally, I cleaned off and installed the cam chain tensioner which is seemingly working well. It took me a few times to get it right but I finally heard the pop you should hear when putting it in place. I tested it by rotating the engine and made sure the chain stayed tight. Once I get the new sealing washers for the oil pressure unit and install the tach drive, I'm done with the engine until I can do a valve adjustment.:clap:
Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to strip off paint from the tank, wheels, and brake calipers and start working on repainting them.
I also picked up new screws for the clutch cover and installed it with a new gasket. I just have to remember I don't have any oil in the engine yet.
Finally, I cleaned off and installed the cam chain tensioner which is seemingly working well. It took me a few times to get it right but I finally heard the pop you should hear when putting it in place. I tested it by rotating the engine and made sure the chain stayed tight. Once I get the new sealing washers for the oil pressure unit and install the tach drive, I'm done with the engine until I can do a valve adjustment.:clap:Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to strip off paint from the tank, wheels, and brake calipers and start working on repainting them.
M
mash35231
Guest
I tried looking through the entire thread and maybe I missed it but, who did the seat upholstery?
Cragers Auto Interiors off of Franklin close to Clyo here in Centerville. They did a wonderful job from the looks of it and I'm looking forward to seeing how well it works. I'll PM you their phone number.
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So I slapped the carb boots on tonight with new orings and polished up the fork lowers - definitely looking much better. Started to put the tach drive back together but thought the threads looked pretty messed up on the outer piece (part number 14 below).
It explains why I needed a set of pliers anytime I connected my tach cable. It's still available but at $17 I'll try to make it work for awhile longer.
It explains why I needed a set of pliers anytime I connected my tach cable. It's still available but at $17 I'll try to make it work for awhile longer.
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Yea sure can Tom as we're moving the bikes to another garage next weekend anyway. Plus, I'm still waiting on parts from Z1 (had to order sealing washers from Suzuki) and Partsnmore (needle seats).
I'll PM you my address.
I'll PM you my address.
G
Guest
Guest
Excellent stuff Scott, glad to see her coming together!
If Tom can't find that part and the 450 part is the same, mine is also sitting here doing nothing as I have blanked mine off due to having the Acewell. Shipping could be an issue though...
So what's the plan for paint? Anything firm yet or a surprise?
If Tom can't find that part and the 450 part is the same, mine is also sitting here doing nothing as I have blanked mine off due to having the Acewell. Shipping could be an issue though...
So what's the plan for paint? Anything firm yet or a surprise?
Thanks Pete, I'll let you know as I believe it does fit on the 450 as well (looked yesterday don't remember today).
Paint - yea, that's the issue. I'm still sold on keeping it blue but haven't decided on the tint
. Looking today I'm thinking a cobalt or a pearl color but I can't make up my mind as I am more of a visual person - I need to see what it looks like on the bike to know if I like it.We'll see though.
G
Guest
Guest
I know what you mean there, I originally thought blue for mine but there are so many different tints and shades of blue I gave up and stuck with maroon... still happy with that though 
Keen to see how she turns out!
Keen to see how she turns out!
I received front brake parts and handlebar grips from Z1 as well as needle seats and needles from Parts N More today so I'm about done for needing new parts, I hope. I won't be rebuilding either of my MCs (front is still good as best I could tell and my rear was rebuilt three years ago) but will repaint the rear. The front calipers will need to be fully rebuilt but I think my rear is also still good from its rebuild when I did the MC. Of course, that might change when I take it apart to paint.
I also received my exhaust pipes back on Monday. I haven't had time to take any pictures thanks to work and the weather but they look great. Basically I had them ceramic coated at a shop who's supposed to be better than the one I had the frame powdercoated (and claimed ceramic coating sucked).
I also received my exhaust pipes back on Monday. I haven't had time to take any pictures thanks to work and the weather but they look great. Basically I had them ceramic coated at a shop who's supposed to be better than the one I had the frame powdercoated (and claimed ceramic coating sucked).
G
Guest
Guest
Good stuff Scott, coming together now!
Ceramic coating is good stuff... the only thing I'm finding is that due to the weather I haven't washed my bike for far too long and because I therefore haven't polished the pipe, it's starting to get a slightly yellow tinge to it in places.
When I wash and polish it next I know it will be back to it's nice silver self though
Ceramic coating is good stuff... the only thing I'm finding is that due to the weather I haven't washed my bike for far too long and because I therefore haven't polished the pipe, it's starting to get a slightly yellow tinge to it in places.
When I wash and polish it next I know it will be back to it's nice silver self though
No work done today as it was moving day in my friend's household. He's moving into a nicer house with a HUMONGOUS garage for the bikes and so all of them had to be loaded up on the trailer. So my frame, two engines (both Hondas), his Suzuki Boulevard cruiser, and his SV1000 race bike were loaded onto my truck and Steve's trailer (yes, I strapped my frame down after this picture was taken).
Once over at the new house, we offloaded the bikes (I got to walk his SV down off the trailer and put it in its spot as the battery died) and then unloaded the engines and the tool boxes. I will say those Hondas are MUCH MUCH heavier than my 550 engine (did them by myself
) to pick up and drop on the ground but I got it.
This was taken after we offloaded mine but before the others.
He's been banned from working in the garage until the house is finished but I'm tempted to put a lift table in there and a few other odds and ends; especially since I'm allowed to keep working on my bike there even after I have it running.:clap:
Once over at the new house, we offloaded the bikes (I got to walk his SV down off the trailer and put it in its spot as the battery died) and then unloaded the engines and the tool boxes. I will say those Hondas are MUCH MUCH heavier than my 550 engine (did them by myself
) to pick up and drop on the ground but I got it.This was taken after we offloaded mine but before the others.
He's been banned from working in the garage until the house is finished but I'm tempted to put a lift table in there and a few other odds and ends; especially since I'm allowed to keep working on my bike there even after I have it running.:clap:
S
SVSooke
Guest
Thanks dude,now I'm really jealous.Even if it's not yours.
Went by the new garage today and continued trying to strip paint off the tank and carbs. The tank went well but that's a given and now just need to take the wire wheel to finish it off before priming it. Speaking of primer, I picked up some sprayable primer and hardener from a local auto paint store. I'm hoping to put some on by next weekend if everything goes well.
As far as the carbs go, I'm still no closer to getting the old paint off. I posted these in my other thread but will add this one here too:
Also took the bike off the lift finally and placed it on the center stand/jack stands.
As far as the carbs go, I'm still no closer to getting the old paint off. I posted these in my other thread but will add this one here too:
Also took the bike off the lift finally and placed it on the center stand/jack stands.
G
Guest
Guest
I use a dremel and the small wire wheels you can get for them. They get into most every crevice. Carb cleaner spray has also been known to work to get paint out of the crevices. I spray a small, thin rag with cleaner then wrap it around the end of a screwdriver and slowly work the area. I use the dremel method the most except for the few areas it won't reach.
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