82 1100e project running finally, idle needs some help

[wilsonsandy07]

i finally got my 1100 put back together, it starts right up and runs strong, but definitely has an erratic idle.

warmed up with choke, then choke off and set idle to just above 1k. it will slowly start to climb, so i rechecked all my seals and boots, everything is tight and seems to be oriented correctly. definitely had some spots where carb cleaner made a direct increase in rpm. thinking of getting some aftermarket hose clamps instead of the pinch point clamps. little more info.....

1. full carb dip/cleaning and jet verification. everything is stock but i do have aftermarket 4-1 exhaust (cant afford stock 4-2 rn)
2. brand new seals/boots from airbox to engine as well as pinch clamps.
3. i did vacuum synch the carbs but never had it running long enough to notice the idle rise (avoiding overheat)
4. adjusted fuel/air mixture to best throttle response, not highest rpm. i got it as lean as possible with best throttle response possible. (i forget how many turns im sittting at tbh. started at 2.5 and worked my way lean from there to minimize backfiring.)
5. It does sound a little backfire-y/poppy but keep in mind the bike hasnt been rode in at least 2 years if not more. so im hoping the italian tuneup will help her knock the dust off a bit.

Any tips/info would be appreciated, would love to stop spending 80 bucks to fill up my truck every week lol

 

[Rob S.]

...some spots where carb cleaner made a direct increase in rpm...

I think that's your only clue right now, so follow that.

I also have an 11EZ, and it's a thing of beauty. Starts quickly, idles beautifully and pulls to redline like a bat out of hell (has pods and 4-into-1). So don't give up.

 

[wilsonsandy07]

Definitely will be chasing air leaks like crazy, cant wait to have it running smoothly man. i do still have pretty loud clutch rattle or possible starter bolt rattle under 1k rpm but im sending it for now. cant afford the HD clutch set up at the moment and im never really under 1k anyways so oh well.

 

[gtem]

Strongly agree with Rob S. If you confirmed that you have air leaks via some carb spray (I personally like to use an un-lit butane/propane torch to "sniff" around the carbs and boots), that is where you should focus your efforts. Only once you've sorted that out 100% should you be looking at anything else.

 

[wilsonsandy07]

Alright update

got rid of all the air leak. Much steadier idle but for some reason it wants to keep returning to 2k rpm. I keep setting it just above 1k and after a few minutes or after blipping the throttle it’ll come back down to 2k.

another thing I noticed during carb Synch it didnt seem like I had enough vacuum. The write up bikecliffs site has about 24 cmHG I was only at about 14

 

[salty_monk]

The main thing is that it matches on each carb not the ultimate figure.... The Morgan Carbtune is a better tool than the gauges.

If you keep returning to 2k I suspect you still have airleaks or you need to open the idle screws. I've never worked on one that didn't need richer settings than the manual calls for... (but I'm at sea level). The popping would also suggest that too.

Could be your enrichment circuit is being held open (choke) or maybe the enrichment plungers are leaking fuel.... (there is a guy on here who refurbs them) but I would expect that to be pretty stable not climbing.

The seal to carbs is important (as is the seal to the head) but the one to airbox is also important as well as checking that your airbox itself isn't leaking air at all the seams. What filter do you have? Is it foam? Is it oiled properly?

 

[Rob S.]

If you keep returning to 2k I suspect you still have airleaks...

Agreed...........

 

[wilsonsandy07]

no air leaks detectable with carb cleaner anymore. gunna try the unlit butane to pinpoint. carbs were a huge bitch to put it and definitely possible not all my boots lined up perfect. Also suspect im running lean so may turn in my screws 1/4-1/2 turn and see what happens if theres for sure no leaks

 

[wilsonsandy07]

The main thing is that it matches on each carb not the ultimate figure.... The Morgan Carbtune is a better tool than the gauges.

If you keep returning to 2k I suspect you still have airleaks or you need to open the idle screws. I've never worked on one that didn't need richer settings than the manual calls for... (but I'm at sea level). The popping would also suggest that too.

Could be your enrichment circuit is being held open (choke) or maybe the enrichment plungers are leaking fuel.... (there is a guy on here who refurbs them) but I would expect that to be pretty stable not climbing.

The seal to carbs is important (as is the seal to the head) but the one to airbox is also important as well as checking that your airbox itself isn't leaking air at all the seams. What filter do you have? Is it foam? Is it oiled properly?

i sealed the airbox with weater stripping, all new boots as well and running paper filter

 

[salty_monk]

Try opening the screws to 3.5 turns... Check vacuum hoses for leaks. Check float height. Only other thing I can think of is the igniter box is shot & you have a weird advance number but I would still bet on an air leak. Good luck

 

[Carter Turk]

Maybe 47.5 pilot jets

 

[rphillips]

Vacuum "hoses", is there more than one?