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'82 GS300L Restore & Timing Adjustment - Complete Noob

  • Thread starter Thread starter hjacobmiller
  • Start date Start date
Well the charging system is the Achilles Heel for the GS.

Its the one thing you want to fix right from the start.

It doesn't have to be for a gsx300 either. The charging system is the same design for most motorcycles.

Its known as a 3 phase Regulated and Rectified charging system.

Rectified to turn the AC power coming out of the stator into DC voltage and then Regulated down to 13-15 volts.

At the begining of that post you can find a list of all RR's that will work. Thats the most important one to understand.

FH-014AA 12V Is a common one that you can find on E-bay.

http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=...br+1000&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

Browse around E-bay for the ones in the list. The blue highlighted ones are the most common.
 
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A few update pics...

Adjusting the valve clearance & checking timing:

0424122106.jpg


Shiny goodness:

0424122224b.jpg


Anybody know what these are on the carbs? Someone mentioned EPA plugs that need to be removed in order to access the air/fuel mixtures screws? Does anyone know of a place that creates carb rebuild kits because I can't seem to find one for my bike...?

Carbs.jpg


Going to start looking for a r/r now...
 
Yes those are the plugs to remove that you circled in red.
I just screw in a wood screw or similar and extract.
Spray some penetrating oil in there after you remove the plugs.

Eric
 
After cleaning do I replace them? I'm guessing they are destroyed when I extract them?
 
They are destroyed when you remove them. They're there to keep you from doing exactly what you're planning to do. It's a smog thing, supposed to keep Joe Public from fiddling with his carbs, thereby destroying the ozone and life as we know it. You don't replace them.
 
There is a place near by that is sort of a salvage yard for bikes and I called them asking about a r/r. He said he doesn't have any GS300s but does have several Suzukis from the 80's that I may be able to grab a good one off of for around $45. Are there any specific Suzuki models that I should be looking for that would have compatible r/rs? There are also a lot of other bikes there so I am thinking about bringing the list from the r/r thread to see if he has any of those models.

Also, what tests can I do to make sure the r/r is good? Just the resistance tests? Are there any more conclusive tests that I could do to make sure I don't buy a non-working one?
 
Best advice I can give is.... buy a used Shindengen (honda style) R/R off ebay- Maybe $25 bucks- the chances of it being no good are mightly slim according to member Duaneage who used to sell them. A used suzuki R/R is a crap shoot.

try these ebay item#
180869019728 or 250772745689... first item is my favorite, I got one installed and another as backup. might be slightly big for your 300. the ninja 250 R/R's are slightly smaller but still good.
 
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how can you tell? the white tag.. ahhhh i see
 
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Yes, plus corrosion makes me skeptical. If you don't like ebay offerings, PM me. I have a tested R/R (spare off my son's departed ninja 250 ). It's made by Shindengen, slightly smaller to Kawasaki request and has sense wire. Bolt centerline is 56 mm. How big is your present R/R?
Honestly, there are tons on ebay for less than $25.


Update; ebay item #370570156063 ; $25, free shipping; in GA; nice clean unit
 
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So here is a bit of update on it.

I went to the salvage yard on Friday hoping to see if I could grab a r/r. Ended up having one and I had him test it to see if it worked (according to the service manual). Tested out fine. Then, since I had brought mine I thought I'd have him double check mine. It worked too. Apparently my ohm meter needs a new battery. Thankfully I hadn't paid for the one he had yet!

So, after several hours of going through the wiring diagram and making sure all the connections were straightened out, I decided to see if I could get it going with the jumper cables and then check the output of the stator with my new multimeter. Well, I turned the key and hit the button and the starter motor turned, but it didn't turn the engine. It sounded like it was just spinning. So, I thought maybe somehow the gears weren't lined up correctly, popped the stator cover over (because removing it involves taking out cam tensioner, etc.) and they were fine.

I don't think that my clutch is engaging right. I had taken the clutch cover off last weekend so that I could get the stator cover off to check for any signs of overheating (which there are not) and then I clean out all the gunk that was behind the clutch cover. In doing so I took what I think is called the "clutch rod" out. But I don't think it is going in all the way now and when so the starter motor tries to turn it over the clutch is not in causing it to not start turning the engine.

How far is this clutch rod supposed to go in? And if I have (probably) done something to cause the transmission to be out of alignment so the clutch rod goes in correctly, what can I do to fix?

I just want to ride!!! :(
 
Well now.

1. I think you have the cables backwards and the starter is spinning backwards.

If this is the case, your Ignitor may have fried, this has happened before.

Everything will work with the cables backwards. Lights, horn , starter... the only things that can be damaged are the ignitor and RR unless they have protection from reverse current.

2. The clutch pushrod goes through a solid shaft straight through to the other side where it pushes on the clutch. Some newer models have a 2 piece unit with a shaft you can pull out like you did. Maybe its just catching on a ledge as your putting it back it. Keep playing with it until it goes it all the way.

3. The starter drives the crank directly through a 1 way clutch, not the main clutch or transmission.
 
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Wait, like the cables from the battery or within the starter? I thought that maybe inside the starter, but I definitely have everything outside the starter connected correctly...

Do I need to take apart the starter again? It only went back together one way, but maybe I missed something.

Is a fried ignitor guaranteed? Or is there some hope that it may be fine...
 
The cables from the booster battery when you were jumping it are what i thought were backwards.

Its hit and miss with the igniter. It would be just fine if the battery wasnt connected backwards.


What has changed since you last started it ?
 
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Mekanix said:
The cables from the booster battery when you were jumping it are what i thought were backwards.

Its hit and miss with the igniter. It would be just fine if the battery wasnt connected backwards.


What has changed since you last started it ?
Click to expand...

Yeah everything was connected from the battery correctly. Had me scared there for a bit! I just tested the r/r and it was in spec (5-6 ohms where appropriate).

Since the last time I had it running (last weekend) I took the starter apart and cleaned it. Corner of magnet broken, chunks inside, cleaned, reassembled, etc.

Anything else has just been mechanical, nothing electrical other than cleaning connections, putting new connectors on and routing wiring. I had to take the r/r off to go to the salvage yard but it has been testing fine.

I do think the starter may be spinning the wrong way though. Could it possibly be spinning the wrong way (and subsequently fry up all the stuff) even if the battery was connected correctly? Could I have reassembled it wrong?

Thank you so much. I really appreciate all of the advice!
 
It should be fine then. Its only by reversing the polarity that you do damage.
The starter can't hurt anything if its spinning backwards.

It could be the starter assembled wrong. Could be the gear the starter engages is in backwards. You could take the stator cover off and watch the starter spin. It should be counter-clockwise.
 
Mekanix said:
It should be fine then. Its only by reversing the polarity that you do damage.
The starter can't hurt anything if its spinning backwards.

It could be the starter assembled wrong. Could be the gear the starter engages is in backwards. You could take the stator cover off and watch the starter spin. It should be counter-clockwise.
Click to expand...

The starter gear is spinning clockwise from the view point of standing on the left side of the bike. Now what? I checked the battery and it is correctly connected...
 
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Ok your going to half to take the starter out and rebuild it by the sounds of it. But while its all together take your meter and check to see if your getting positive voltage on the starter lead.

You can miss align the starter to make it spin backwards. I remember a similar post a while back where this was the case.
 
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