G
Guest
Guest
lol over thinking it a bit I think.
The bolt on the end of the advancer and the big nut behind it are fixed to the crank.
You use the big nut with a wrench to rotate the crank and everything should go with it. That's its designed purpose.
Just under your spacer the advancer rotor is the only thing that should move and it should only move forward. If you hold the crank and rotate that you'll notice that it moves forward a bit and then springs back.
If its locked down tight then you might want to loosen the bolt holding the advancer on the crank and see if the rotor rotates better then. If so then your spacer might be too thick and binding things up.
Take the advancer out before you clean it. You don't want to get any solvent on your new electronics.
Take the plastic rotor off as well. Just soak the weights and springs if they don't move freely and grease them up again after.
The center bolt is normal right hand thread.
As for it not firing:
Are you sure that you have the left and right firing in the right order ?
The reason I mention that is because the rotor could be on backwards and firing the wrong cylinder at the wrong time.
You usually would find this out with a loud backfire.
Look at Pete's setup and try to align your plate the same way so the timing will be close to where it has to be.
For the light test, connect a light between ground and the - on one of the coils, Left or right.
When you rotate the engine and the light turns on, that's how you know where it is timed.
So to do it right. look in the window to make sure you see the F mark for the left side and that that side is on the compression stroke.
Then grab the rotor and turn it by hand clockwise so that its fully advanced. Then while holding it that way try and rotate the crank a bit until the light comes on.
When it does come on look in the window again and see how far off you are.
Adjust the plate a bit and try again until your marks lign up and the light comes on at the same time.
The bolt on the end of the advancer and the big nut behind it are fixed to the crank.
You use the big nut with a wrench to rotate the crank and everything should go with it. That's its designed purpose.
Just under your spacer the advancer rotor is the only thing that should move and it should only move forward. If you hold the crank and rotate that you'll notice that it moves forward a bit and then springs back.
If its locked down tight then you might want to loosen the bolt holding the advancer on the crank and see if the rotor rotates better then. If so then your spacer might be too thick and binding things up.
Take the advancer out before you clean it. You don't want to get any solvent on your new electronics.
Take the plastic rotor off as well. Just soak the weights and springs if they don't move freely and grease them up again after.
The center bolt is normal right hand thread.
As for it not firing:
Are you sure that you have the left and right firing in the right order ?
The reason I mention that is because the rotor could be on backwards and firing the wrong cylinder at the wrong time.
You usually would find this out with a loud backfire.
Look at Pete's setup and try to align your plate the same way so the timing will be close to where it has to be.
For the light test, connect a light between ground and the - on one of the coils, Left or right.
When you rotate the engine and the light turns on, that's how you know where it is timed.
So to do it right. look in the window to make sure you see the F mark for the left side and that that side is on the compression stroke.
Then grab the rotor and turn it by hand clockwise so that its fully advanced. Then while holding it that way try and rotate the crank a bit until the light comes on.
When it does come on look in the window again and see how far off you are.
Adjust the plate a bit and try again until your marks lign up and the light comes on at the same time.
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