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82GS750T - Seal, T/M Gear Shift Oil

These have been in Safety Clean off/on for 4 days...8hrs per. Lookin' so much better than when I removed em'.

picture.php



Ed

No kidding, very clean indeed.
 
Finally Painted Brake Parts

Finally Painted Brake Parts

I've let these components sit in Safety Kleen for a good 32hrs last week; today they finally got painted. I'm expecting more parts to put it all together this week--maybe in time for Saturday (I won't do any work on Super Bowl Sunday--GO BRONCOS!)

picture.php


The weather has been somewhat cold but no snow. It will be worth the wait to see how the new clutch cable and single braided front brake will work for me.

I've investigated the Gear Shift Seal and don't see too much oil coming out of it as I suspected. It may be that I have to change the oil pan gasket.

I've got plenty to do in the future but taking things one step at a time.


Ed
 
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Replies

Replies

You must have meant "Go Sea Hawks" :)

I'm a RAIDERS fan (we use to play you guys twice a year when they were in the AFC West) but I like Peyton...he's got a great Father.

The way I see it, experience trumps...most of the time. Secondly, weather is going to be a factor. Yeah, the Seahawks play in the rain/cold but not with snow/chill factor. I'm not saying they can't play in it...they just don't do it as often as Denver.

Good luck to both teams! :D

Man once you get started on something... :)

I'm tryna stay on top of things and learning along the way. My next job is to tackle the oil pan gasket...which involves removing the pipes!:eek:

Thanks for reading my documented story.


Ed
 
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[

I'm tryna stay on top of things and learning along the way. My next job is to tackle the oil pan gasket...which involves removing the pipes!:eek:

Ed[/QUOTE]


Ed, while you have the oil pan off, I would install a steel threaded insert into the oil drain hole. Why, cuz one of these days those sorry aluminum threads will strip out and you'll have to pull the pan again (the self tapping drain plugs are only a band aid fix, they'll eventually will strip out as well, mine did hence the steel insert) Make sure the insert is flush with the bottom of the pan area and cut two slots flush down to the inside the bottom of the pan where the oil can completely drain. Get a drain plug that fits the insert along with a copper crush washer and you'll be set. No worries of EVER stripping those original threads. Also might what to consider doing this as well. While the pan is off you might as well shim the oil relief valve to give yourself a bit more oil flow to the head. I just saw a thread on this yesterday though I can't seem to find it now. AHHA, found the thread lol. Here it is. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=216402&highlight=relief+valve
 
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Thread Insert

Thread Insert

Ed, while you have the oil pan off, I would install a steel threaded insert into the oil drain hole. Why, cuz one of these days those sorry aluminum threads will strip out and you'll have to pull the pan again (the self tapping drain plugs are only a band aid fix, they'll eventually will strip out as well, mine did hence the steel insert) Make sure the insert is flush with the bottom of the pan area and cut two slots flush down to the inside the bottom of the pan where the oil can completely drain. Get a drain plug that fits the insert along with a copper crush washer and you'll be set. No worries of EVER stripping those original threads. Also might what to consider doing this as well. While the pan is off you might as well shim the oil relief valve to give yourself a bit more oil flow to the head. I just saw a thread on this yesterday though I can't seem to find it now. AHHA, found the thread lol. Here it is. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=216402&highlight=relief+valve

Thanks Bill. If I decide to do this before I leave NM, I'll let you know. I'm looking forward to putting the caliper/MC/bracket and even the handles back together because I painted them all.

It will be quite evident what I've been working on when I take pics of the completed brake job.

I've done a valve adjustment, clutch breakdown, and now a front brake teardown. This is fun...I'm enjoying the fruits of my labor.


Ed
 
It is kind of fun working on a bike then being able to ride your own work !
 
Glad that you're enjoying it. Ive always considered maintenance a means to an end -riding-, so I dont enjoy it as much as some, but in recent years i have slowed down and enjoyed the process more then in the past. My goal when working on the cycle is a safe and good running machine. Looks and cleanliness are second priority.......
 
Bike Work

Bike Work

Glad that you're enjoying it. Ive always considered maintenance a means to an end -riding-, so I dont enjoy it as much as some, but in recent years i have slowed down and enjoyed the process more then in the past. My goal when working on the cycle is a safe and good running machine. Looks and cleanliness are second priority.......

I hear ya DB. I've been waiting on parts and have access to a dipping solvent container where all my brake parts have been sitting in. In the evenings, I kick back and wire brush everything...then dip again. Did it for 4 days and the parts are really KLEEN!

Since I'm spraying the handles, I took the brackets off too and will paint everything I removed. I don't care about cosmetics either...I have an "L" seat and an offline rear fender but everything is functional. You'll definitely see the difference...I'll post pics of my completed BRAKE rebuild with a single braided front line.

Thanks for stopping by with your feedback.


Ed
 
Clean Parts

Clean Parts

I've painted most of the brake parts...I finally removed the other brackets and will paint them soon. You can see the left bracket & the other half of the MC bracket on the bottom left need some attention:

picture.php


My parts from BlvdSuzuki are due today; I'm getting excited!



Ed
 
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Dang bill how hard are you tightening those plugs? You must be going Super gorilla on those to be talking about those stripping like that lol. Always used 2 fingers to tighten them plugs and never had any issue
 
Dang bill how hard are you tightening those plugs? You must be going Super gorilla on those to be talking about those stripping like that lol. Always used 2 fingers to tighten them plugs and never had any issue

Being the threads what they are, they will eventually strip. I tightened to what the book said maybe a tad less knowing the metal. Sh*t happens lol.
 
I'm the first/only owner of a 2003 Honda Pilot and the metal is about the same...somewhat soft. I don't torque the bolt but since I've done all the oil changes, I know how much to turn it without stripping the threads. I would think it's the same principle on this bike and I've done one oil change so far. (The shop did the first)

Good info provided Bill...thanks again.


Ed

EDIT: Reading through my Clymer's owner manual, I'm going to have to soak the inner parts in brake fluid 15 minutes before installing. This will make it pliable to install...trust me, I was tryna put the piston in both the MC and the Caliper and was met with a little resistance. This is going to be fun!
 
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Caliper

Caliper

Here's what I spent part of my Saturday working on; why did I bother painting the caliper? The Dot 3 brake fluid removed the paint...oh well.



I painted the remaining brackets...spent about 30 minutes setting up the tape.



The Caliper bracket kept it's nice color:


Fun times compressing the piston--I ended up removing it and re-installing the piston after dipping it in Dot 3 and it dropped into the chamber. I didn't need the C-clamp.


I gotta compress this and put a snap ring on it...the seal isn't cooperating.


It all started with this first seal:



Ed
 
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Paint Dried - 3Feb2014

Paint Dried - 3Feb2014

Brackets and MC came out pretty good. Got the piston in the MC...that outer piece of rubber is a dust protector.






Ed
 
Now, Back to this Seal for a Minute

Now, Back to this Seal for a Minute

While waiting on parts and soaking components: caliper/MC/bracket/bolts/washers...I had a chance to do some cleaning up in this area. All I used was isopropyl alcohol, q-tips, and a wire brush to clean up the area that started this thread. I'm going to find this oil leak soon enough. Check out the difference:

BEFORE


AFTER


And by the way, here's the right/left handlebar. I'm adjusting the clutch cable at the moment but wanted to show you guys this:




My camera phone sucks for pics but that's what I have atm.

Now, back to adjusting the clutch cable.

Ed
 
Bleeding the Brakes "NO WORKIE"

Bleeding the Brakes "NO WORKIE"

Boy, I'm telling you...I'm starting to envy the riders I see now that the weather is clearing up here in NM.

I took the CALIPER off and figured there would be fluid in the line: NOPE.



I took the line off the MC and there is something amiss.



Something is clogging the MC so I will ONCE AGAIN put it in Safety Kleen (I kept squeezing the handle to drain the MC but nothing). In the meantime, I will tackle removing the piston from the caliper and installing the dust cover first before squeezing the piston in there. I've noticed that it will slide in when I turn the piston--like it's not a perfect circle. Wierd but that's what I see.


Ed
 
I havent had to diagnose M/C problems yet, but during my last brake fluid change, in order to get the fluid moving, I had to very gently and slowly move the lever in and out, to bleed out the air from the M/C piston. You may see tiny bubbles when doing this. After that I do It the lazy mans way....keep the M/C topped off, open the bleeders, and let gravtiy do the rest.
 
Trial/Error

Trial/Error

I havent had to diagnose M/C problems yet, but during my last brake fluid change, in order to get the fluid moving, I had to very gently and slowly move the lever in and out, to bleed out the air from the M/C piston. You may see tiny bubbles when doing this. After that I do It the lazy mans way....keep the M/C topped off, open the bleeders, and let gravtiy do the rest.

I'm squeezing the handle and see bubbles coming up in the MC bowl but no fluid is flowing through the piston. Maybe I installed the spring/rubber seal incorrectly. I used my Clymer's book as well as the fiche diagram so this is a trial and error experience for me.

I'm glad I'm not in a rush...this is part of learning my bike. I'm not frustrated yet...just wanna figure this out...and I will. Then I will enjoy riding my "T" knowing I did the maintenance on her. (I'll always check my work at slow speeds before taking it to the limit).



Ed
 
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