• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

82GS750T - Seal, T/M Gear Shift Oil

Hi Ed!

Although this doesn't have anything to do with filling the brake lines with fluid, the only place the MC can realistically be clogged up (with as much cleaning as you've already done) is the pin-hole return port. It's one of the two holes in the bottom of the reservoir. One is large and the other is very, very small. Remove the piston, clear the MC completely of fluid, and shine a bright flashlight into the bore. You should see plenty of light through one hole and just a tiny pinhole through the other. The tiniest strand of copper wire you can find should be able to poke it out.

A dry, freshly-cleaned brake system often needs to be "primed" before the MC will start pushing fluid through of its own accord. This is where most people seem to have trouble and either can't get the fluid to flow at all or end up with non-functional or spongy brakes. I'm not an expert at this by any means, but this is my preferred fool-proof brake-bleeding procedure (so far):

1) Rig up your bleeding hoses or whatever you have down by the calipers.

2) Fill the brake reservoir with fluid. While bleeding, don't let it get empty enough to suck air into the system.

3) Remove the brake handle, fill the reservoir with fluid, crack open one bleeder and push the piston in with a screwdriver as far as it will go. Do this a couple times. It will push more air out of the MC than with the brake lever alone. Reattach the brake lever.

4) Use suction instead of pressure to bleed the lines. Down at the calipers, use some kind of vacuum source to pull fluid through the system. There are special vacuum bleeding setups you can buy at great cost, or you can be cheap like me and spend about $1 on a large plastic medical syringe: http://www.amazon.com/Special-Pack-...8&qid=1392051079&sr=8-1&keywords=60cc+syringe

You may have to alternate #3 and #4 once or twice to clear the MC of air. It may or may not help to lightly tap the MC with something plastic. Start to finish, this takes me about 15 minutes. Tying back the brake lever and letting it sit overnight is something I've seen recommended by fellow forum members.
 
Hey Charles,

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to use the suction device once I re-assemble the caliper and put everything back as it was before.

About the MC..I didnt realize the second hole had a tiny opening unlike the primary which I can see the grooves of the piston as I'm compressing the top part of the piston. Anyway, it will be worked on tonite and I'll post pics. Thanks for your feedback!


Ed
 
Okay, I used a bleeder suction tool and got fluid through the bleeder valve. Now, I'm just squeezing the brake lever (I didn't take your advice on removing the handle because I didn't want to disconnect the electrical unit that goes underneath the handle.

I'm happy that I got the piston back in the caliper...I didn't put the dust cover on first as was suggested in BassCliff's site. Instead, I used a scratch awl to push the seal inside/alongside the piston--I used a lot of brake fluid to make it pliable and it worked.

I'll tie something to the handle and leave it overnight as suggested. Man, this is a nuisance but an important part of safety for me and my bike.



Ed
 
Dang Ed, If I were feeling better, I would ride over and help ya. Not able to ride with a nice little arhritic flair up going on in my neck right now. Can't even stand the weight of the helmet on my neck.

Hope you get it sorted out soon.
 
Thanks Bill

Thanks Bill

mrbill5491 said:
Dang Ed, If I were feeling better, I would ride over and help ya. Not able to ride with a nice little arhritic flair up going on in my neck right now. Can't even stand the weight of the helmet on my neck.

Hope you get it sorted out soon.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the thought Bill...just relax and take care of yourself my friend. I'll figure this out.

Moar Pics:

















Ed
 
So is the lever fairly firm now? Tying it back overnight generally removes that last bit of sponginess, it can't bleed a significant amount of air from the lines/calipers if there's some left.
 
Status

Status

eil said:
So is the lever fairly firm now? Tying it back overnight generally removes that last bit of sponginess, it can't bleed a significant amount of air from the lines/calipers if there's some left.
Click to expand...

I'm gonna hit the gym and then spend the evening with my baby. I left the handle pulled back and tied overnight and all day while I'm at work. Once this is sorted, I still have to mess with my clutch cable!!!

Keepping me busy is my "T".




Ed
 
Trying Again

Trying Again

eil said:
Hi Ed!

Although this doesn't have anything to do with filling the brake lines with fluid, the only place the MC can realistically be clogged up (with as much cleaning as you've already done) is the pin-hole return port. It's one of the two holes in the bottom of the reservoir. One is large and the other is very, very small. Remove the piston, clear the MC completely of fluid, and shine a bright flashlight into the bore. You should see plenty of light through one hole and just a tiny pinhole through the other. The tiniest strand of copper wire you can find should be able to poke it out.

A dry, freshly-cleaned brake system often needs to be "primed" before the MC will start pushing fluid through of its own accord. This is where most people seem to have trouble and either can't get the fluid to flow at all or end up with non-functional or spongy brakes. I'm not an expert at this by any means, but this is my preferred fool-proof brake-bleeding procedure (so far):

1) Rig up your bleeding hoses or whatever you have down by the calipers.

2) Fill the brake reservoir with fluid. While bleeding, don't let it get empty enough to suck air into the system.

3) Remove the brake handle, fill the reservoir with fluid, crack open one bleeder and push the piston in with a screwdriver as far as it will go. Do this a couple times. It will push more air out of the MC than with the brake lever alone. Reattach the brake lever.

4) Use suction instead of pressure to bleed the lines. Down at the calipers, use some kind of vacuum source to pull fluid through the system. There are special vacuum bleeding setups you can buy at great cost, or you can be cheap like me and spend about $1 on a large plastic medical syringe: http://www.amazon.com/Special-Pack-...8&qid=1392051079&sr=8-1&keywords=60cc+syringe

You may have to alternate #3 and #4 once or twice to clear the MC of air. It may or may not help to lightly tap the MC with something plastic. Start to finish, this takes me about 15 minutes. Tying back the brake lever and letting it sit overnight is something I've seen recommended by fellow forum members.
Click to expand...

I walked away from bleeding the brake this past week; today is laundry day and a perfect time to re-engage this brake bleeding process.

As I was using the "suction" tool and squeezing the handle. I did notice the second hole had a tiny hole that, on occasion, let some tiny bubbles come up to the top. I did not want to remove the handle so I'm pumping away but have yet to get a proper seal.

Since I am not in a real quick hurry, I'll continue to add brake fluid and try to get that resistance needed to engage the caliper piston to squeeze the brake pads.

I've already filled the MC 3+ times and have about 3-4 oz in the suction tool reservoir. The fluid has yet to apply pressure to the caliper piston. I've tightened the bolt/banjo/2 washers (one on each side of the banjo) going in to the caliper because there was a slight leak.

I've also opened the bleeder valve and then closed it so that the fluid can go into the caliper. I think that's where the fluid needs to fill the most.

Like I said, I'm in no hurry so not getting too frustrated with this process.



Ed
 
Have you tried to barely pump it just enough to dislodge the tiny bubbles that are trapped in the first 1/4" of brake lever through? As long as you keep getting those tiny bubbles, you still have too much air in the master.
 
Keep Plugging At It

Keep Plugging At It

GSX1000E said:
Have you tried to barely pump it just enough to dislodge the tiny bubbles that are trapped in the first 1/4" of brake lever through? As long as you keep getting those tiny bubbles, you still have too much air in the master.
Click to expand...

Hmmmm....I'm just pumping what seems like plenty of fluids through the suction reservoir but not getting a complete cycle of fluids going. At some point, I'm guessing, I'll pump this so much that the air bubble/pocket I'm messin' with will eventually vacate the line.

Like I said, I'm not in any hurry and I know it will eventually FILTER through the line. Plus, it doesn't help that I'm in watching NetFLIX while I'm doing this work and get easily distracted. (Breaking Bad is DARN good!)

It doesn't mean I'm not determined...just get easily side-tracked instead of getting frustrated with this task.

Thanks for your input...I truly appreciate the feedback I get from everyone. Don't lose faith in me...I'm just getting sidetracked instead of frustrated.



Ed
 
Almost there

Almost there

Still going at it...maybe today I will get the air out.

Planning my trip to DE...been a little preoccupied.


Ed
 
My Loss in Ride Time

My Loss in Ride Time

eil said:
Hi Ed!

Although this doesn't have anything to do with filling the brake lines with fluid, the only place the MC can realistically be clogged up (with as much cleaning as you've already done) is the pin-hole return port. It's one of the two holes in the bottom of the reservoir. One is large and the other is very, very small. Remove the piston, clear the MC completely of fluid, and shine a bright flashlight into the bore. You should see plenty of light through one hole and just a tiny pinhole through the other. The tiniest strand of copper wire you can find should be able to poke it out.

A dry, freshly-cleaned brake system often needs to be "primed" before the MC will start pushing fluid through of its own accord. This is where most people seem to have trouble and either can't get the fluid to flow at all or end up with non-functional or spongy brakes. I'm not an expert at this by any means, but this is my preferred fool-proof brake-bleeding procedure (so far):

1) Rig up your bleeding hoses or whatever you have down by the calipers.

2) Fill the brake reservoir with fluid. While bleeding, don't let it get empty enough to suck air into the system.

3) Remove the brake handle, fill the reservoir with fluid, crack open one bleeder and push the piston in with a screwdriver as far as it will go. Do this a couple times. It will push more air out of the MC than with the brake lever alone. Reattach the brake lever.

4) Use suction instead of pressure to bleed the lines. Down at the calipers, use some kind of vacuum source to pull fluid through the system. There are special vacuum bleeding setups you can buy at great cost, or you can be cheap like me and spend about $1 on a large plastic medical syringe: http://www.amazon.com/Special-Pack-...8&qid=1392051079&sr=8-1&keywords=60cc+syringe

You may have to alternate #3 and #4 once or twice to clear the MC of air. It may or may not help to lightly tap the MC with something plastic. Start to finish, this takes me about 15 minutes. Tying back the brake lever and letting it sit overnight is something I've seen recommended by fellow forum members.
Click to expand...

#3 worked and I feel like a dummy because I was being too lazy to remove the electrical line going to the bottom of the MC.

I pushed the piston in with a screwdriver a couple of times and viola, instant pressure. Of course, I also used the suction tool and filled in the MC once before the caliper compressed the brake pads!

My loss is riding time...so I'm not going to be too hard on myself. I have my SUV scheduled for Maintenance tomorrow and I needed my "T" to take to work this week while the Honda is in the shop. It's gotta get done before my flight on Friday.

So I'm a "push-come-to-shove", "light a fire under my butt", type of person when it comes to my bike.

I'm happy now...FINALLY!



Ed
 
Last edited:
Tough Start

Tough Start

Killed the battery trying to start my bike. Key points:

-Gas tank read under 1/4 tank
-Switched the fuel petcock to PRI after a couple of starts

A fellow neighbor saw me and said, you're gonna kill your battery. He suggested some "Miracle Oil" so off I went to get gas and a red bottle of this oil.

Returned and added fuel and 1 cap-full of the miracle oil; also had the petcock on PRI. It turned over but would stay on. One last try and the battery was exhausted.

She's back in my apartment with battery tender connected. I shall try again tomorrow.

Front brake feels awesome...barely have to squeeze and the front wheel stops. I noticed a slight leak on the caliper/banjo which I will take care of immediately.




Ed
 
Continuous Learning

Continuous Learning

I put my "T" on battery tender for 6 hours and took her outside for a RESTART.

She fired up!

But I think I'm gonna need a new battery and maybe other components because it's the first time I drained her.

I'm gonna try and ride to work this week. Let's see how things work out.



Ed
 
Riding Time - 24 Feb 2014

Riding Time - 24 Feb 2014

Rode to work today! Man it feels good; weather is perfect!

BRAKES WORK GREAT!

She's a little sluggish...I was right about the battery...need a new one. I had to push-start her this morning but she fired right up!:D


Ed
 
Ed remember what I said about your charging system when I saw the R/R unit you had on your bike. Once you get the new battery and I would do a complete test on the charging system to make sure that isn't part of the problem. These systems are famous for crapping out when you least expect it. It can literally happen in minutes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top