• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

83 1100E oil 0/W 50W synthetic

Probably more important than the viscosity would be whether the words "Energy Conserving" or something similar appear in the API donut on the rear label. You don't want to see them, they are bad for the clutch.
 
Pretty sure an oil like that wouldn't fall into the EC spectrum. That said, some people get paranoid with using any oils that is not approved for use in a wet clutch.
 
Sez SP and I was looking at the wrong gallon in my cabinet, it's 5W 30 full synthetic Valvoline and it does say resource conserving. I could use it in my riding lawnmower instead.
 
As a general rule the 'energy conserving' oils will be either 20 or 30 weight on the high end of the multigrade rating (eg - 5W20, 5W30, etc.). So anything that is a __W40 or __W50 will not be energy conserving. Also, the diesel oils never seem to be rated as energy conserving and have always worked well for me in motorcycles with wet clutches. My go to oil for my street bikes is Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic.


Mark
 
mmattockx said:
My go to oil for my street bikes is Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic.
Click to expand...
That is mine, as well, but I have noticed lately that there is also a 15w40 T6 full synthetic sitting right next to it. Same blue jug, so you have to be careful which one you grab. I'm sure the 15w would work, especially in the warmer climates, but I prefer the 5w.
 
mmattockx said:
As a general rule the 'energy conserving' oils will be either 20 or 30 weight on the high end of the multigrade rating (eg - 5W20, 5W30, etc.). So anything that is a __W40 or __W50 will not be energy conserving. Also, the diesel oils never seem to be rated as energy conserving and have always worked well for me in motorcycles with wet clutches. My go to oil for my street bikes is Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic.

Mark
Click to expand...

Mark,I had tried some other brand synthetic(Castrol Actevo) 10/40 in my bike and it caused a few leaks around gaskets and seals.Have you ever experienced any leaks using the Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic ? I normally run Rotella T4 15/40 non-synthetic and have gone back to it after the way the synthetic oil leaked.
 
Last edited:
grcamna2 said:
Mark,I had tried some other brand synthetic 10/40 in my bike and it caused a few leaks around gaskets and seals.Have you ever experienced any leaks using the Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic ? I normally run Rotella T4 15/40 non-synthetic and have gone back to it after the way the synthetic oil leaked.
Click to expand...

I have not had an issue with leaks but that is a known side effect of some synthetics as they have better detergent properties than conventional oils and can scrub away the accumulated gunk that is keeping old seals from leaking. I don't have an answer for that aside from switching back to a conventional oil as you have done. There are some guys here that have delved way deeper into the nuances of synthetic oils (they aren't all the same by any means) and may have some better suggestions for dealing with leaks.


Mark
 
mmattockx said:
I have not had an issue with leaks but that is a known side effect of some synthetics as they have better detergent properties than conventional oils and can scrub away the accumulated gunk that is keeping old seals from leaking. I don't have an answer for that aside from switching back to a conventional oil as you have done. There are some guys here that have delved way deeper into the nuances of synthetic oils (they aren't all the same by any means) and may have some better suggestions for dealing with leaks.


Mark
Click to expand...

Mark,I'm glad you're able to run Rotella T6 full synthetic in your 1100E without it sprouting leaks;I may try switching to it to see if I have the same results.
 
Synthetic oil does not cause leaks. It may scrub away the crud that is plugging an existing leak, making you think it causes a leak. It will be up to you whether you repair the cause of the leak or go back to an oil that will plug the leak.

Synthetic oil is not "slipperier" than 'conventional' oil. It will not make your clutch slip. For the most part, oil is oil. Just choose the correct viscosity.

There are some properties of synthetic where it tolerates heat better or will resist wear due to shear or other stuff, and can usually last a bit longer between changes.
 
phydeauxmutt said:
Synthetic oil does not cause leaks. It may scrub away the crud that is plugging an existing leak, making you think it causes a leak. It will be up to you whether you repair the cause of the leak or go back to an oil that will plug the leak.

Synthetic oil is not "slipperier" than 'conventional' oil. It will not make your clutch slip. For the most part, oil is oil. Just choose the correct viscosity.

There are some properties of synthetic where it tolerates heat better or will resist wear due to shear or other stuff, and can usually last a bit longer between changes.
Click to expand...

Agree. Main attribute with synthetic oil is that it breaks down slower thus you can use it longer. Because it lasts longer the oil makers put more detergent and acid buffers in it. Pretty much every new turbo auto engine being built these days is using synthetic oil and they don't leak.
 
Nessism said:
Pretty much every new turbo auto engine being built these days is using synthetic oil and they don't leak.
Click to expand...
Not only that, but they put the synthetic oil in at the factory, further dispelling the myth that you need to use 'regular' oil to break it in, then you can switch to synthetic.
 
phydeauxmutt said:
Synthetic oil does not cause leaks.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I recall being told that it 'found' leaks. From day one with my Suzi (2013), it has been 'money is no object' when it comes to her care. Much like tubes vs. tubeless, I shied away from synthetic because it can be argued that she was not designed for synth.

But the bottom line is she already 'sweats horsepower' a wee bit (occasional drop on the floor), so I never fed her synth. But my 2016 Sportster never got anything but full synth.

A few years back, I was talking cars with a real old timer. When I asked him what was the main improvement from the olden days, he said it was the quality of the oil, particularly it's longevity.

Back in the '70's and '80's, ('71 CB350 & '73 Z1), I pretty much stuck to Castrol GTX 20w-50.
 
I believe I read or was told manufacturer's can run tighter tolerances with synthetics due to synthetic oil molecules being all the same "size" as compared to conventional oils which are of many different sizes.
 
limeex2 said:
I believe I read or was told manufacturer's can run tighter tolerances with synthetics due to synthetic oil molecules being all the same "size" as compared to conventional oils which are of many different sizes.
Click to expand...


That's a good point,thanks.
 
limeex2 said:
I believe I read or was told manufacturer's can run tighter tolerances with synthetics due to synthetic oil molecules being all the same "size" as compared to conventional oils which are of many different sizes.
Click to expand...

Incorrect. Whoever told you that doesn't know very much about bearing design.
 
Rob S. said:
Back in the '70's and '80's, ..., I pretty much stuck to Castrol GTX 20w-50.
Click to expand...
Not a 'bad' oil, and the higher viscosity is great for generating pressure. Just remember that it's not pressure that lubricates the engine, it's volume.

Imagine for a moment if the oil passage just downstream of the pump and the sending unit for the pressure gauge was completely blocked. The reading on the gauge would be sky-high, but there would be NOTHING flowing through the bearings. It is far better to have an oil that is thin enough to flow through the thin clearances of the bearings. Fortunately, most GSes have roller bearings on the crank, but still have plain bearings on the cams.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top