83 1100E oil 0/W 50W synthetic

[red1100]

I have a gallon of this and am wondering if anyone has used this weight in a GS. Pros and cons?

 

[Guest]

Probably more important than the viscosity would be whether the words "Energy Conserving" or something similar appear in the API donut on the rear label. You don't want to see them, they are bad for the clutch.

 

[Nessism]

Pretty sure an oil like that wouldn't fall into the EC spectrum. That said, some people get paranoid with using any oils that is not approved for use in a wet clutch.

 

[red1100]

Sez SP and I was looking at the wrong gallon in my cabinet, it's 5W 30 full synthetic Valvoline and it does say resource conserving. I could use it in my riding lawnmower instead.

 

[Guest]

As a general rule the 'energy conserving' oils will be either 20 or 30 weight on the high end of the multigrade rating (eg - 5W20, 5W30, etc.). So anything that is a __W40 or __W50 will not be energy conserving. Also, the diesel oils never seem to be rated as energy conserving and have always worked well for me in motorcycles with wet clutches. My go to oil for my street bikes is Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic.


Mark

 

[Guest]

My go to oil for my street bikes is Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic.

That is mine, as well, but I have noticed lately that there is also a 15w40 T6 full synthetic sitting right next to it. Same blue jug, so you have to be careful which one you grab. I'm sure the 15w would work, especially in the warmer climates, but I prefer the 5w.

 

[grcamna2]

As a general rule the 'energy conserving' oils will be either 20 or 30 weight on the high end of the multigrade rating (eg - 5W20, 5W30, etc.). So anything that is a __W40 or __W50 will not be energy conserving. Also, the diesel oils never seem to be rated as energy conserving and have always worked well for me in motorcycles with wet clutches. My go to oil for my street bikes is Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic.

Mark

Mark,I had tried some other brand synthetic(Castrol Actevo) 10/40 in my bike and it caused a few leaks around gaskets and seals.Have you ever experienced any leaks using the Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic ? I normally run Rotella T4 15/40 non-synthetic and have gone back to it after the way the synthetic oil leaked.

 

[Guest]

Mark,I had tried some other brand synthetic 10/40 in my bike and it caused a few leaks around gaskets and seals.Have you ever experienced any leaks using the Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic ? I normally run Rotella T4 15/40 non-synthetic and have gone back to it after the way the synthetic oil leaked.

I have not had an issue with leaks but that is a known side effect of some synthetics as they have better detergent properties than conventional oils and can scrub away the accumulated gunk that is keeping old seals from leaking. I don't have an answer for that aside from switching back to a conventional oil as you have done. There are some guys here that have delved way deeper into the nuances of synthetic oils (they aren't all the same by any means) and may have some better suggestions for dealing with leaks.


Mark

 

[grcamna2]

I have not had an issue with leaks but that is a known side effect of some synthetics as they have better detergent properties than conventional oils and can scrub away the accumulated gunk that is keeping old seals from leaking. I don't have an answer for that aside from switching back to a conventional oil as you have done. There are some guys here that have delved way deeper into the nuances of synthetic oils (they aren't all the same by any means) and may have some better suggestions for dealing with leaks.


Mark

Mark,I'm glad you're able to run Rotella T6 full synthetic in your 1100E without it sprouting leaks;I may try switching to it to see if I have the same results.

 

[Guest]

Synthetic oil does not cause leaks. It may scrub away the crud that is plugging an existing leak, making you think it causes a leak. It will be up to you whether you repair the cause of the leak or go back to an oil that will plug the leak.

Synthetic oil is not "slipperier" than 'conventional' oil. It will not make your clutch slip. For the most part, oil is oil. Just choose the correct viscosity.

There are some properties of synthetic where it tolerates heat better or will resist wear due to shear or other stuff, and can usually last a bit longer between changes.

 

[Nessism]

Synthetic oil does not cause leaks. It may scrub away the crud that is plugging an existing leak, making you think it causes a leak. It will be up to you whether you repair the cause of the leak or go back to an oil that will plug the leak.

Synthetic oil is not "slipperier" than 'conventional' oil. It will not make your clutch slip. For the most part, oil is oil. Just choose the correct viscosity.

There are some properties of synthetic where it tolerates heat better or will resist wear due to shear or other stuff, and can usually last a bit longer between changes.

Agree. Main attribute with synthetic oil is that it breaks down slower thus you can use it longer. Because it lasts longer the oil makers put more detergent and acid buffers in it. Pretty much every new turbo auto engine being built these days is using synthetic oil and they don't leak.

 

[Guest]

Pretty much every new turbo auto engine being built these days is using synthetic oil and they don't leak.

Not only that, but they put the synthetic oil in at the factory, further dispelling the myth that you need to use 'regular' oil to break it in, then you can switch to synthetic.

 

[Rob S.]

Synthetic oil does not cause leaks.

Agreed. I recall being told that it 'found' leaks. From day one with my Suzi (2013), it has been 'money is no object' when it comes to her care. Much like tubes vs. tubeless, I shied away from synthetic because it can be argued that she was not designed for synth.

But the bottom line is she already 'sweats horsepower' a wee bit (occasional drop on the floor), so I never fed her synth. But my 2016 Sportster never got anything but full synth.

A few years back, I was talking cars with a real old timer. When I asked him what was the main improvement from the olden days, he said it was the quality of the oil, particularly it's longevity.

Back in the '70's and '80's, ('71 CB350 & '73 Z1), I pretty much stuck to Castrol GTX 20w-50.

 

[limeex2]

I believe I read or was told manufacturer's can run tighter tolerances with synthetics due to synthetic oil molecules being all the same "size" as compared to conventional oils which are of many different sizes.

 

[grcamna2]

I believe I read or was told manufacturer's can run tighter tolerances with synthetics due to synthetic oil molecules being all the same "size" as compared to conventional oils which are of many different sizes.

That's a good point,thanks.

 

[Nessism]

I believe I read or was told manufacturer's can run tighter tolerances with synthetics due to synthetic oil molecules being all the same "size" as compared to conventional oils which are of many different sizes.

Incorrect. Whoever told you that doesn't know very much about bearing design.

 

[Guest]

Back in the '70's and '80's, ..., I pretty much stuck to Castrol GTX 20w-50.

Not a 'bad' oil, and the higher viscosity is great for generating pressure. Just remember that it's not pressure that lubricates the engine, it's volume.

Imagine for a moment if the oil passage just downstream of the pump and the sending unit for the pressure gauge was completely blocked. The reading on the gauge would be sky-high, but there would be NOTHING flowing through the bearings. It is far better to have an oil that is thin enough to flow through the thin clearances of the bearings. Fortunately, most GSes have roller bearings on the crank, but still have plain bearings on the cams.