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83 GS1100E tire sizes?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Airstream
  • Start date Start date
A

Airstream

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I just ordered some Michelin Active tires for my new / old 83 GS1100E in sizes
100/90-19 and 130/90-17

Now I was just on this site for Bridgestone tires and http://www.eurotred.com.au/lib/pdf/MC Tyre Data 2010.pdf

and they recommend
Suzuki GS1100E/ES /G 80-83 3.50-19 4.50-17 110/90-19 Spitfire S11 120/90-17 Spitfire S11

for sizes. Which size is better?

I am tempted to ask if I should be running tubes or not, or will that just cause trouble?
 
Good to go. Next time (long time from now.) try a 110/90-19 on the front. ;)

Daniel
 
Don't run tubes in tubeless tires unless you have wire spoked rims.
 
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You can run tubeless if you mill the wheels where the valve stem seats. I converted to tubeless when I (bwringer) installed my Avon RoadRiders. The rear wheel sealed adequately, but the front one leaked until he milled out a nice flat spot for the valve stem to seat up against. He went ahead and milled both wheels. Since then, no problems. I know several people who run the 83s tubeless. I would never run a tube if I could avoid it; you have to pull the wheel and break down the tire if you have a flat. With a tubeless, just plug and go.
 
Find below a summary of what I have read when doing research on tires in regards to using tubes in tubeless tires. Of course it is acceptable to use tubes in tubeless tires when fitted to rims that have wire spokes as air can leak past the spoke nipples and past the valve outlet on the steel rims if tubes are not fitted. It is concerning rims (wheels) made for tubeless tires that these comments are made.



"Now, as to using a tube within a tubeless tire ... It is often done but it is often done wrong and the advantages of doing so are often outweighed by the disadvantages.

Just as a new tire needs to stretch, so does a tube. Indeed, a tube stretches more than does a tire. If you use an old tube in a new tire then you can be sure that it no longer fits! In fact, you can almost be certain that doing so will result in a fold (pinch) failure of the tube in short order.

A tube within a tubeless tire adds weight (and makes balancing the tire more difficult) and results in substantially increased tire HEAT that, by itself, can cause tire failure. This added heat is particularly evident if the tube is slightly too small for the tire it is put into. On the other hand, if the tube does not fail from overheating, the odds of a catastrophic tire pressure loss is somewhat reduced when running with a tube within a tubeless tire.

There is some reason to believe that an inflated tube within a tubeless tire can also cause some tire/rim seal failures resulting from air trapped between the tube and the tire malforming the bead.

Generally, at least in my opinion, a tubeless tire should NOT be ridden with a tube inside it. There is insufficient gain potential compared to the greater risk of tire failure resulting from the combination."


 [FONT=&quot]Not my comments, but the best summary that I could find.
[/FONT]
 
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Don that is probably the best advice,IF YOU HAVE A TUBLESS RIM.I'd never run a tube on my 85 750EF with marked tubeless rims.The rims on the 78 1000 however are not so marked so tubes they will get.Pretty much need to here as the insurer here is being sticky about this.Anything to get out of paying:-\\\
 
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Yeah, they're not bad are they. Anyway I don't have to worry as I have wire spoked wheels so tubes are mandatory for my wheels no matter what tires I use.
 
The 83 1100E came with tube-style rims, for some curious, perverted reason. My bike came with Dunlop 501s and I put 5k more miles on them before changing them out and deleting the tubes as I mentioned. It is difficult to find tube-style tires these days in the appropriate sizes.
Not trying to be argumentative, just stating a fact.
I personally would not run tubes because of the hassle of repair in case of a flat, but that's just me.
 
I have tubes in both my bikes, as that's what is shows in the parts fiche,
I also have tubeless tires, Avon Roadriders, works for me.
 
Tubes are safe to run inside a tubless tire. Some tires even say as much printed right on the side. Since the majority of our GS bikes do NOT have tubeless compatible rims, which have an extra bead to hold the tire in place in case of a deflation, the only option is to either run tubes or risk it and change over to tubless by modifying the wheel to accept a tubeless valve stem. I don't want to start yet another thread discussing that modification since we already have beaten that dead horse several times before, but suffice it to say that a good many members have done the mod with success. But others don't like taking the risk since the wheels don't have the extra bead and/or they are not keen on modifying their wheels. Personally, I run tube inside my tubeless tire.
 
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After reading most of the posts on tube or tubeless I'm leaning toward the tubeless route. While picking up a part at the local Kawasaki dealer for the ZX11 the parts manager told me that the rim is too porous to hold air and that I would have to use tire sealant. Didn't sound quite right to me, what do you think?
 
Airstream said:
After reading most of the posts on tube or tubeless I'm leaning toward the tubeless route. While picking up a part at the local Kawasaki dealer for the ZX11 the parts manager told me that the rim is too porous to hold air and that I would have to use tire sealant. Didn't sound quite right to me, what do you think?
Click to expand...
Not sure what a tire sealant is going to do to keep air from going through the rim. :-k

What some have done with modest success is to apply a couple coats of epoxy to the rim before mounting the tire. :o

.
 
Suzuki_Don said:
Did I open a can of worms?????

SORRY
Click to expand...
YES! You bastich!
Airstream, if you want to install tubeless tires tubelessly (is that a word?) you need to mill a flat spot on the inside of the rim. A mill tool is different from a drill in that it makes a nice flat area for the valve stem to seat on.
bwringer and I experimented with a couple of different stems and the ones you pointed at seem to work well.
AFA the wider sealing area, that debate will never be resolved. We converts like the change, the purists condemn it.
 
Lots of guys around here have converted their rims to go tubeless. In most cases there is no leaking due to porosity, but there is a slim risk.
 
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