• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

A Final Desperate Plea for Help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Uruka
  • Start date Start date
U

Uruka

Guest
I've posted on the board a few times asking for assistance in getting my GS650 to run. When I first got the thing I did a half assed job of cleaning the carbs, fixed the wiring, cleaned the plugs, and I was able to travel about 100 miles on it (with no air filters). It would die at over half throttle, I figured it was the carbs. I followed the carb cleanup tutorial to the letter. I bought pod filters, upped the jetting to 115, new battery, new rear shocks, rebuilt the front shocks. I painted the frame, tank, engine, and body work. I put alot of work into it. So every once in a while I would fiddle with it and try to get it running. I discovered that one of the connections on the ignitor was bad, I replaced the igitor, I have good spark, and still no go. The only way the bike will start is if I place my hand over the intake on the main carb. Can somebody help me???
 
Not enough fuel going thru the starter (enrichning) circuit, or pilot circuit. Don't know of a main carb, they are all the same, except one has a vacuum for the petcock. I'm no expert, but I'd try a yardstick or thin plank so I could "choke all the carbs equally, at the same time. If you can get it to run long enough to warm up, the rpm should start to rise. back off on the choke to keep the rpm down. See if that does anything & holler back the results
 
I took a couple of rulers and held them over one another to nearly completely cover the carbs and it would start, smoke a lot, and the RPMs would go really really high. After I removed the rulers the engine died.
 
You say engine work, have you checked the valve clearance? What is the compression? Are you absolutely sure the choke and idle mixture circuits are clean? Is the tank rusty inside giving you a bad fuel supply? Oxygen, fuel, and compression are all needed to run.
 
jjmaag said:
You say engine work, have you checked the valve clearance? What is the compression? Are you absolutely sure the choke and idle mixture circuits are clean? Is the tank rusty inside giving you a bad fuel supply? Oxygen, fuel, and compression are all needed to run.
Click to expand...


I'm using an auxiliary fuel supply while I'm working on the bike so the fuel is clean. I don't have the tool to check compression and I haven't had the head off to adjust valve clearance. I used Gumout and the special wire tool to clean the carbs, I sprayed Gumout into every passage but maybe that wasn't good enough?
 
Uruka said:
I'm using an auxiliary fuel supply while I'm working on the bike so the fuel is clean. I don't have the tool to check compression and I haven't had the head off to adjust valve clearance. I used Gumout and the special wire tool to clean the carbs, I sprayed Gumout into every passage but maybe that wasn't good enough?
Click to expand...

Correct - strip them and dip them

Read the Carb cleanup page and follow it completely

And adjust your valves - all other work is futile until you completely clean your carbs and set your valves
 
Uruka-Even if you dip them, there MAY be some varnish/crap still hiiden in the smallest jets. If you take the jets out, hold them up to the light. You should be able to see all the way throught the jet holes and see a full circle of light. If you can see through them, you may need to use you wire tire to poke the debri out.
 
You have to remove the choke plunger and idle mixture screw and make sure you can spray cleaner and or compressed air thru all the passages from the bowl to the outlet in the carb. It is best to completely disassemble the carb, dip it in carb cleaner over night then spray cleaner and air thru the passages. The holes are very small and get varnish build up from old gas. It has to be perfectly clean to work right.
 
Ok, I'm out to get the carb dip. I will go over these carbs like I'm performing brain surgery. Then I'll do the valves while the carbs are bathing.

I found a tool to check my compression, it was about 130 all around. I think the compression may be higher than that actually, the tool didn't thread in, it was just a rubber cone that you press into the plug holes.

I'll report back in a day or two. Thanks everyone.
 
Uruka said:
The only way the bike will start is if I place my hand over the intake on the main carb. Can somebody help me???
Click to expand...


You are using your hand as a choke. Reducing air flow thus creating a richer mix.
I agree with the others here, the problem is in the carbs.
 
While you have the carbs off, now is a good time to make sure your intake boots have a good seal. Get new o rings, gaskets, sealer, whatever... I'ts a pain to have to take them off again.
 
dirtyfingers said:
While you have the carbs off, now is a good time to make sure your intake boots have a good seal. Get new o rings, gaskets, sealer, whatever... I'ts a pain to have to take them off again.
Click to expand...

Brand new intake boots and o-rings all around.

I have the carbs soaking right now, well actually just one. That's all I can fit in that one gallon bucket. After I opened the carbs up I noticed that there was muck in them. The little filter screens had tarnish stuck to them and all kinds of good stuff. I guess the chem dip is a necessary procedure.
 
So is making sure the tank is clean & correct jetting with pod filters... you're lucky you didn't kill it running lean with stock jetting & no air filters for 100 miles!

Dan :)
 
Dipped all the carbs for 24 hours, rebuilt them, installed them and now it runs.
 
Uruka said:
Dipped all the carbs for 24 hours, rebuilt them, installed them and now it runs.
Click to expand...

Good news. Now you need to do some plug chops to make sure the jetting is not too lean. Lean running can cook your engine so don't take this step lightly.
 
It's not lean, there's gas leaking out of the pod filters!

Nessism said:
Good news. Now you need to do some plug chops to make sure the jetting is not too lean. Lean running can cook your engine so don't take this step lightly.
Click to expand...
 
gas leak?

gas leak?

Gas leaking out doesn't mean it's rich...it means it's leaking. That should not happen, ever. Eventually you will need to check the plugs to see how it's running. Try this: http://www.dansmc.com/sparkplugs1.htm

But first stop the leak. You could have a petcock problem or float bowl needle valves not working right. If one of those is stuck open it will leak not only into the pod, but also into the engine. It will also make your bike run like crap. So make it stop leaking before you do anything else. Then fix the rich/lean issue.

If you were running it without filters you are doing way more than allowing dirty air into the carbs. These things are very dependent on proper air flow to control the mixture. Removing the stock filter requires re-jetting the carb. Running without a filter at all makes a huge difference in mixture. You have to allow for that. Covering the intake with a ruler only simulates the flow restriction an airfilter provides. You really need to jet for the filters and then run with them in place.

Same goes for changes in the exhaust.
 
Just because you have too much gas going the wrong way (through the air filters) does not mean you have enough going the right way (through the jets). :eek:

If you have gas coming through the air filters, you have problems with the float needles. The float level might be off, or the needles are not seating properly on their seats.

You still need to make sure that the other jets are clear. Nice to hear that you dipped them for 24 hours, but I hope that you then sprayed carb cleaner and compressed air through all the small passages to make sure you get out all the gunk that the dip softened up.

Stock main jet size is 110. I would imagine that you need to go to something more like a 117.5 or even a 120 for your pods. Do you have a header on it, too? Think about using 125 or so mains.

.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top