a jump in revs from 5k to 6.5-7k

[timebombprod]

whenever im riding the bike and giving it a good amount of throttle while in a higher gear, the bike will jump in its revs from about 5k to 6.5-7k and then keep going, if im giving it good throttle from a low gear and run through the band it acts fine, im wondering if this is a lean condition.

also when i go to the redline from first gear i get a pretty good response but once i go to second it feels pretty anticlimactic, im also wondering if that would be because a air/fuel mixture issue. i can post a video of me running through the gears to show how it acts for a much better visual if yall would like.

 

[Rob S.]

Clutch slippage?

 

[timebombprod]

i was thinking it could be that at first but i dont really lose any power, and it doesnt engage back in place or anything like that

 

[93Bandit]

Does engine noise match what the tach is doing? Or is your tach just acting up?

 

[Cipher]

Does engine noise match what the tach is doing? Or is your tach just acting up?

A half broken tach cable winding up then loosening
Happens to speedos to
The instrument and the swimwear

 

[timebombprod]

Does engine noise match what the tach is doing? Or is your tach just acting up?

Yes it does, I'm gonna have to take a video of it soon enough

 

[rphillips]

If the eng. speed goes up, & tach needle goes up to match, & the bike doesn't speed up to match those two. I'd say the clutch or the rear tire is slipping, there's nothing else in there to slip. Also the clutch slipping should show up in Hi gear, way before in the lower gears. I took 3 of the 6 springs out of my wife's Kawa. 600 bikes clutch so she could pull it in easier. Rode it pretty hard myself & in Hi gear was the only place I ever felt any slipping.

 

[timebombprod]

If the eng. speed goes up, & tach needle goes up to match, & the bike doesn't speed up to match those two. I'd say the clutch or the rear tire is slipping, there's nothing else in there to slip. Also the clutch slipping should show up in Hi gear, way before in the lower gears. I took 3 of the 6 springs out of my wife's Kawa. 600 bikes clutch so she could pull it in easier. Rode it pretty hard myself & in Hi gear was the only place I ever felt any slipping.

then it probably is clutch slip, ill take a video anyways. never done clutch work so this will be a first

 

[Cipher]

rolling steep hiills are a good place to check a clutch

 

[rphillips]

Did you check the tach. cable yet? A buddy told me yrs. ago, always check the cheapest simplest things first...He was right.

 

[timebombprod]

Did you check the tach. cable yet? A buddy told me yrs. ago, always check the cheapest simplest things first...He was right.

The tach cable is fine as the engine noise matches the rpms, you can hear the jump from the engine when you see the jump on the tach. It'd be nice to be the cheapest solution!

 

[Cipher]

The tach cable is fine as the engine noise matches the rpms, you can hear the jump from the engine when you see the jump on the tach. It'd be nice to be the cheapest solution!

Never bothered to check
Checking would kill you

 

[rphillips]

Cipher...you did your part. That's all we can ask.

 

[timebombprod]

the tach cable is fine....i can assure you that, in no way am i doubting your knowledge i just can 100% assure its not the cable. it would be nice if it was that but as i said when the engine speed jumps up so does the tachometer and its never acted odd in any way, i really wish it was the tach cable as that is an easy and cheap fix. my exhaust is pretty dang loud so it is very easy to distinguish the jump in the engine speed.

please wait until i can get a video i had to do a valve adjustment (so the tach cable was able to be checked and it was fine) aswell as drop the pan to put a new one on and that required taking off the exhaust aswell so it will not be today unless i go for a night ride.

 

[timebombprod]

just to update i have to wait for exhaust gaskets so it will be a good bit until the video comes out, sorry rp i just know its not the tach, i always do check the cheapest things first, been able to only spend about $30 excluding a new battery for the virago and i got all the electrics working just fine, most of it was just deep cleaning and testing bits to make sure they worked and it saved me over $300 to ensure any electrical bits are working as they should.

if it somehow ends up being the tach ill send you $20 through paypal lol

 

[rphillips]

Naw Ian, all is good, I didn't realize you had already looked at the tach cable when you adjusted the valves, you just said you were sure it was OK & I just took it wrong. No way to be 100% sure without taking it out & looking. A clutch, if that turns out that is the problem, isn't as bad as it sounds. Just asking, you aren't using any kind of "Slick 50" or any other oil additive are you? That or even some of the new super slick motor oil will make the clutch slip. I know, I've been there & done that.

 

[timebombprod]

Naw Ian, all is good, I didn't realize you had already looked at the tach cable when you adjusted the valves, you just said you were sure it was OK & I just took it wrong. No way to be 100% sure without taking it out & looking. A clutch, if that turns out that is the problem, isn't as bad as it sounds. Just asking, you aren't using any kind of "Slick 50" or any other oil additive are you? That or even some of the new super slick motor oil will make the clutch slip. I know, I've been there & done that.

no i just use the rotella 15w-40, i heard from one of the members here that it causes clutch grab but not slip so its probably the clutch itself. i kinda ride the crap out of it because my low end is still acting up, gonna run through the pilot circuit and mixture screws on the carbs to ensure that they are clear and then see if it goes back to being smooth. i know that i run on all 4 when idling but hey maybe its not running as strong as it should due to a inefficient fuel delivery through the pilots.

i still plan on getting a video, i just have to wait almost a week for the dang exhaust gaskets.

 

[timebombprod]

checked the pilot circuits with a spray test, making sure that when i spray in the pilot circuit from where the jet is and seeing the spray come out the pin size hole that the mixture screws are located at, and of course all 4 circuits spray clean, i might have possibly had one pilot jet sitting in there loose but now all 4 are certainly tight, all i have to do is wait for the exhaust gaskets. maybe ill mess around a bit more with the bike but all i really can do is cleaning lol, oh, and getting the rear brake working, had a leak and i never fixed it but im sure if i have the rear working correctly with a solid pressured pedal i will notice a difference.

 

[timebombprod]

video will be out today mark my words...

 

[timebombprod]

okay so in the beginning of the video i just show my engagement point on the clutch maybe it helps with showing what i might need to do, if you go to 2:57 my clutch will slip and ill say there it is as it happens, and also if you go to 5:58 my clutch slips again, figured a video would be good to do to show the most accurate visual of whats happening. after the second time my clutch slips the rest is just riding and just talking out random crap.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tmt9SmfbnYw

also my brake just started squeaking recently, i havent noticed any difference in brake performance but i should still figure out why it is squeaking, you will hear a constant valve tick as i had to do a valve adjustment due to hard starting and backfiring, was 2 intake and exhaust valves, theyre just a bit loose as of right now but with enough riding it will go back to normal, and then my idle is high lol, no intake leaks as far as i can tell ive tried multiple times spraying the boots with flammable sprays and nothing ever changes, might just be running leanish or something to do with the carbs.