About to pull the trigger on a GS450

[BoCoMoMann]

I found a nice 1986 GS450 w/18,000 miles on it that has been sitting for "a couple years".

NADA says the following:

Excellent $1,125
Very Good $750
Good $445
Fair $215
Poor N/A

As it's not running, I'm thinking that the "good" price is applicable -

Any major issues with the GS450 series?

 

[dorkburger]

Not sure, but a 450 E or S is on the list of bikes I hope to own. Keep us posted.

I would think the E or S would fetch more money then a T or an L as typical of most of our GSs.
Your NADA listing doesn't show sub models.

 

[Guest]

The 450's are fun little bikes, still have a ball on my 82.

The 83 onwards got different carbs and ignition with electronic advance so some of the rarity issues in the 80 - 82 models don't affect you which is a good thing. The good bits are still in common.

And of course there's still plenty in common with the GS500's so there are many ways to keep them going for a long time yet.

I can't help you on pricing, everything's stupidly expensive here compared to there.

 

[eil]

You can completely disregard NADA, KBB, and any of those price guides for vintage motorcycles. They're so off true market value it's hilarious.

Price is determined by overall condition and demand. GSes are typically pretty cheap compared to Hondas and Kawasakis of the same vintage because they are plentiful and don't have the same nostalgia factor for a lot of people, for some reason. But they're still great bikes with a good following.

My own rough guide is that a project bike which will require a significant amount of work to get it back to decent is never more than $500. A runner in average condition is between $500 and $1000. One in great condition (and well-cared for) would get between $1000 and $2500 from me. But it varies drastically by bike and how much I like it, of course.

If you were to post the pictures and what (supposedly) needs to be done to get it road-worthy, chances are our fellow forum members would be able to shout out some decent guesses at value. But we tend to be a "cheap" group, so take them with a grain of salt.

And remember that you will have to go through the bike with a fine-tooth comb, catching up all the neglected regular maintenance. You can easily spend hundreds on tires, battery, gaskets, replacement cables, brake parts, etc after purchase. The seller won't tell you (either through deception or ignorance) all of the issues the bike has. But for me, getting all that stuff taken care of is half the fun.

 

[tkent02]

Eil's price guide is accurate for the bigger GSes, but not for these. Take about half off of the price for being a 450, they are great bikes to ride but they just don't pull the prices the bigger fours do. Not running, it's a parts bike, a couple hundred max unless it is a really beautiful complete example that just needs a battery or something. Missing some parts, rusty, a few dents and having sat outside a few years, not going to pay much for it.

It will take as much money to get running and in safe operating condition as the bigger bikes, usually around $1000 or so if you go through it all as you should. If the fact that the 450 isn't ever going to be worth much more than that bothers you, look for something else.

If it doesn't bother you, grab it up, they really are great bikes.

 

[Guest]

I paid $300 for a no title, no key, doesn't run 1983 450A with 14k miles, a Windjammer, crash bar and rear rack. Sold the 'Jammer & rack for $50, so $250 bike. Now, new tires, new battery, key, title, clean & rebuild carbs, E-bay seat and tank, misc. bits & rattle can paint, maybe another $700. Great little "get around town" bike. Excellent starter for the daughter. I enjoy bringing them back to life anyway.

 

[BoCoMoMann]

Thanks for all the good information. I plan to go check it out early next week.
Fell into a nice TC185 and then a TC400 as well, it's been a good year.

 

[BoCoMoMann]

Back in 1982, Suzuki had the GS450L for their middleweight cruiser.

The 450L was cast in the mold of the "UJC" or Universal Japanese Cruiser".

Take your standard, add a small teardrop fuel tank, a stepped seat and buck-horn bars, instant cruiser.

These little bikes would run the quarter in about 14 seconds flat, quick enough to function in traffic.

The bikes was rated at 38hp at 9500rpm and a top speed of 100MPH.

Weight - about 386 pounds.

Honda's little CB400T pumped out 34hp at 9000rpm and also topped out at the ton. It weighted in a few pounds heavier at 391lbs.

Yamaha, the XS400 with 34hp@10,000rpm and again, topping out at the magical one hundred. The Yamaha was the lightweight of the group, coming in at $372lbs.

Kawasaki had the heavyweight of the middleweights - the KZ440. It did put out around 27hp@7000, making for a nice torquey ride. It topped out at a little under a hundred, and was porky at a little over 400 pounds. Many feel it offered the best "style" for the UJC's of the era, but that's totally up to the individual.

NADA is as follows:

• Excellent $2,050
• Very Good $1,290
• Good $725
• Fair $415

This particular bike was bought for $400.00 from a friend who just wanted it to go away, he had no interest in riding.

At 16,250 miles it had been ridden and did show some minor damage.

Normal, the sidecovers were cracked but usable. This is totally common on these, as most owners had no clue how to remove or install them without breaking them.

As shown in the picture, there is a minor dent in a muffler, the right footpeg needs to be bent out a tad.

The front brakes, out of fluid. Add fluid, would not pump up. The bleeder did break free and fluid was now in the entire system - unless a miracle happens and the seal swell up and work on the next visit, the plan is to rebuild the master cylinder and caliper. Maybe even replace the line, With fluid, probably looking at a 31-1118 rebuild kit for the cylinder and about $15.00 for the piston seal and boot for the caliper, if needed. Looking at about $50.00

The battery was shot, wrong one anyway but it fit and costs less than the original. Figure $35.00 for that, $50.00 maximum. It will be zip stripped in, as the previous owner lost the band, I probably have one around somewhere.

Some wiring needs massaging, that's free on my time, nothing major so far.

The tank - I looked in the tank, very minimal rust, Plan to add some fresh fuel, slosh it around and dispose of it in an ecologically sound manner. Fill it up fresh with alcohol free premium, install the battery, and hope to ride it away -

Luckily, when the drain plug on the bottom of the carb was pulled, there was nothing scary, that would of been close to a deal breaker.

Still - those carbs were notoriously lean from the factory. I'll probably turn the air screws out a bit and might even replace the pilot jets with the next size up. The needles should be adjustable, but I'd rather not mess with the carbs.

Is this bike a classic or an antique?

Probably not, but it would qualify as vintage due to it's age.

Time will decide if this ones a dolphin or not -

 

[BoCoMoMann]

The 450's are fun little bikes, still have a ball on my 82.

The 83 onwards got different carbs and ignition with electronic advance so some of the rarity issues in the 80 - 82 models don't affect you which is a good thing. The good bits are still in common.

And of course there's still plenty in common with the GS500's so there are many ways to keep them going for a long time yet.

I can't help you on pricing, everything's stupidly expensive here compared to there.

I found out it's a 1982, with those few items that are, "unique" -

Hopefully this turns out OK, thanks to you and the others for the info, much appreciated!

 

[BoCoMoMann]

Hopefully my dragbike gets picked up today, putting some space in my "shop" (storage unit) and some extra cash in hand.

I'm needing a set of tires on my FJ, plus it's ready for a clutch and a few other maintenance items -

But I need to get a move on this GS450L - get it going, and decide if I even want my wife riding.

She does fine on scooters, but I'm not sure how well she will adapt to the clutch, probably fine.

I know it's going to need a starter cover, part number 11382-4411, new they're less than $20.00, but if someone has a used one in great shape for less, I'd consider it.

Interesting times, if things are pretty normal in your life, be thankful.

 

[Guest]

One thing that struck me is that the cam chain tensioner is on upside down. I guess it would work that way, but I'd want to verify that the motor turns freely and has compression and that the tensioner is installed correctly before subjecting it to starting.

I rode a 450L once; not fast and not far. The bars are just weird, but that's an easy fix. And if you decide it's not working out, you could probably part it out and make money. Which is my answer to your question 'Is this bike a classic or antique'. I see them as organ donors. But if you're short, they're maybe a wonderful thing. Could be love?.

 

[BoCoMoMann]

One thing that struck me is that the cam chain tensioner is on upside down. I guess it would work that way, but I'd want to verify that the motor turns freely and has compression and that the tensioner is installed correctly before subjecting it to starting.

I rode a 450L once; not fast and not far. The bars are just weird, but that's an easy fix. And if you decide it's not working out, you could probably part it out and make money. Which is my answer to your question 'Is this bike a classic or antique'. I see them as organ donors. But if you're short, they're maybe a wonderful thing. Could be love….

The cam chain tensioner is correct for the period. Later models (85-on) used a different design.

I'm 6'4" 245ish, but it's about perfect for my wife, who is a scooter rider, and/or my daughter.

The bike has sat for a couple of years, but the tank did not look bad nor did it stink.

You know that smell - the smell of "maybe I better think about this" - it was not there, the tank was topped off with fresh alcohol free premium.

The battery wiring was a little wonky, but it appears acceptable for testing.

Yesterday I bought the wrong battery (YTX9-BS) for the application, but it was in stock and I knew it could work. (I paid $20.00 more at a local shop that I could of bought it for because the owner is a good guy and they treat me like a human.)

Proper battery prep is critical to long life and something most ignore. Simple, I added the acid and let it sit for an hour. Then I connected it to my "smart" low amp charger and left it overnight. It will last.

Connected the positive cables to the battery, routed them through the other side and connected them.

Slide the battery all the way in, used some zip strips to hold it in place.
Connect the negative side - no sparks, nothing scary.

Turned the fuel to prime - and hit the start button.

Nothing happened.

For a moment, a flashing moment, I felt a little bit of a feeling I've not enjoyed, ever. But it was brief, and I quickly started at the top of the troubleshooting list:

Check kill switch

That was it, hit the starter button, cranked over fine.

It took a little time for the fuel to work its way into the carbs, but once I put the choke in the correct position, it fired right up.

Let it idle a bit, checked it over, had to take it for a ride, had too.

I understand that is a mistake, a flaw in judgement, but that is who I am.

No front brake, those were inoperative, the rear worked, whatever.

Took off and the bike performed well through the gears, no worries.

The bike starts to develop a wobble at speed, and I remember that I did not check the flat looking now nearly totally flat coming off the bead tires.

Rode very slow back to the sellers house.

The owner found his air pump, they inflated fine, whew.

What about that front brake -

Opened up the master cylinder cover and there was fluid - checked the bleeder on the caliper, some came out -

Bled the fitting at the master to the upper line and a big pocket of air came right out and the brakes felt great.

Next test ride was longer, for the money, it's a great bike.

The handlebars are bent, easily replaced. And the forks tweaked a little to the left, not enough to worry me, enough that I believe I can take out when I check the steering head bearings.

It's coming home shortly and my wife can start cleaning it up.

I'm still taken back at how well it ran, and for what it is, how fun it was to ride!