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Aftermarket Cables Suck

bwringer

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I installed a Motion Pro clutch cable on my GS850G a few months back. Ever since, the clutch didn't feel right -- it would slip and stick when I released the clutch slowly, making smooth takeoffs sort of a problem.

I lubed and adjusted the cable a few times with no joy. So I ordered up a new OEM cable. I just installed it tonight and the problem is gone.

The OEM cable is only about three bucks more than the aftermarket crap, and when comparing them side-by-side, you can see several differences:

1) Thicker cable
2) Barrel at lever end on OEM cable has a plastic "sleeve" around it.
3) Thicker housing
4) Clevis, springs, and other hardware thicker and higher quality
5) Higher quality, thicker boots on engine end.
6) Pre-lubed

The MP cable is now hanging on the wall as an emergency replacement -- that's all it's good for.

I had a similar experience earlier this summer when replacing the throttle cables on my V-Strom -- the OEM cable set was backordered indefinitely, so I was stuck ordering a Motion Pro set. The MP set was very obviously a cheap imitation, with low-rent hardware, thinner housings, and chintzy boots and covers. And it was actually a few bucks more than the OEM cable, although the shop I ordered from only charged me the OEM price. Throttle cables are under much less stress, so I'm hoping it'll be OK until the OEM units are available again.

The moral of the story: order OEM parts whenever possible. There are lots of companies out there selling all kinds of dangerous imitation junk -- gaskets, carb kits, brake and clutch levers, fork seals, and most worrying of all, shoddy brake caliper and master cylinder kits that cost more and don't even include new pistons.

To add insult to injury, the imitation crap actually costs more in many cases.

Of course, there are cases where modern aftermarket parts are better and/or save significant amounts of money -- tires, shocks, brake pads, brake lines, wheel bearings, steering stem bearings, some brands of oil filters, etc.

There are also times when OEM parts are not available, so you have to make do with aftermarket.
 
I've just replaced the clutch cable as well. It pulled out from the clevis and looks repairable if I can find a good swaged or swageless marine fitting. I don't know if it is an oem. The sheath is stiffer then the new one, there are two foot long external extra sheaths about where it goes past the head and down between 1 and 2 carbs. Both cables have a bigger inch long protection just about where the oil flow switch is.
Both have the barrel 'sleeve'. The original has a thicker boot at the bottom with a spring inside but the 'grip' on the clevis is a few mm shorter.
An oem cable here was going to be ?40 delivered and a week away. I bought a Slinky Glide from Wemoto for ?15 plus shipping which was nothing because I had a bunch of other stuff coming.
The inner cable is longer and you can see the bottom adjuster is backed off. There is about 1 1/2 diameters engaged in the clutch cover and I'm slightly pigeon toed out at the lever. The old cable adjuster was all the way through with the lever set straight fore and aft.
No complaints with the action.
Time will tell.
 
Anyone ever had any success soldering there own barrels?

I never tried it but I heard it works.
 
Never had a problem with motion pro. I guess it's luck of the draw with aftermarket stuff. I tend to have bad luck with the gaskets.
 
Never had a problem with motion pro. I guess it's luck of the draw with aftermarket stuff. I tend to have bad luck with the gaskets.

I'm pretty picky, I guess, although the clutch cable issue was not subtle.

Parts Unlimited cables and levers are even worse. Like MP, they're better than nothing and they'll get you moving again. If your original was hashed or missing, you'd never know there's a difference.

MP does know how to make good cables -- they make a nice heavy-duty clutch cable for the KLR650 that's thicker and better than stock. And they have a nice service where they'll make custom cables if you are building a GS850 with ape hangers or doing some sort of wacky engine/carb swap.

It's certainly possible to solder up your own cables, but the parts and such can get spendy. Not many old-school shops these days can do it.
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166
 
The problem is that aftermarket companies are only making cables, and they're making them with the hopes of turning a profit. With the OEM parts essentially 'setting' the price point for a cable, they have to come in at that price or less, and still be able to turn a profit on each cable they sell (and sell them, more or less, one at a time).

Suzuki, on the other hand, is selling the cables first-and-foremost as part of a complete bike. A bike costing $5k to $10k, that comes with a warranty and carries the reputation of the brand along with it. Suzuki can see past the extra $1 or $2 cost of a higher-spec cable in the interest of the bigger goal, that being building a quality bike.

Suzuki also buys these things by the 1000's, so the actual cable manufacturer can build and sell them for less based on the volume. Even then, Suzuki isn't in the business of selling cables, so the price is what it is to buy just a cable, and Suzuki's business is not hanging on you choosing to buy a cable from them or not.

I just did OEM cables on my 1100 this summer. You can just tell the quality of them when you take them out of the bag. They just look like something you would expect to see on your bike after spending $5k to $10k to take it home.
 
bwringer: you mentioned one of the advantages of the oem cable is that it is pre-lubed.

How can you tell if it is pre-lubed? I recently bought a clutch cable on ebay and the ad said it was pre-lubed. But I couldn't see any lube on either end of the cable where it stuck out of the sleeve. Also, the picture on ebay showed a spring wrapped around the cable and the one I got did not have that. I wonder if I was sent a different cable than the one I thought I was ordering. Seller had 100% feedback.
 
bwringer: you mentioned one of the advantages of the oem cable is that it is pre-lubed.

How can you tell if it is pre-lubed? I recently bought a clutch cable on ebay and the ad said it was pre-lubed. But I couldn't see any lube on either end of the cable where it stuck out of the sleeve. Also, the picture on ebay showed a spring wrapped around the cable and the one I got did not have that. I wonder if I was sent a different cable than the one I thought I was ordering. Seller had 100% feedback.

I don't think they are pre-lubed. I just put an OEM cable on my 550, it was still a little stiff. Shot some lube down the cable, now it's quite a bit better. Still a little stiff, not sure why yet.
 
Tried a MP clutch cable once and only once, only got a couple years of service out of it. Went back to a OEM cable.
 
bwringer: you mentioned one of the advantages of the oem cable is that it is pre-lubed.

How can you tell if it is pre-lubed?



Well, uh, the OEM cable had lube on it. You know, oil. The MP cable didn't seem to have anything.

Perhaps MP uses some sort of dry lube, or very small quantities, or depends on a liner. I dunno, but the OEM cable's action was markedly smoother and easier. And still is.

I don't know if you can count on catalog or fleaBay descriptions to tell you if you're going to get a properly prelubed cable.

OEM tach and speedo cables come with a white greasy substance of some sort on the wire and last for decades; aftermarket cables don't seem to be coated with anything and never last long.

FWIW, I just installed a heavy-duty MP clutch cable on my KLR. The wire is much heavier than OEM, the casing is stronger, and the wire cable was oily. I have every confidence this one will last a long time. Shame this isn't their standard construction, and is only available on cables for more popular models.
 
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