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Airbox - Carb not staying on properly.

  • Thread starter Thread starter sandrael
  • Start date Start date
S

sandrael

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Guys, so far you were able to help me to clean the crabs, stop the leakage in them, start the bike and identify the problem with why it wasn't starting. So I can't say "thnx" enough!

For me this is the first major mechanical endeavor so everything is new but I am learning fast.

So now, bike is starting and no fuel leakages from the carb. But the engine heats up like crazy!!!!

Yes I know it is an air leak, and most likely from my carb-airbox boots. Because for some reason after putting the carb back in to the boots the rightmost just doesn't want to stay in place... Is it boot itself? Or the metal clamp got deformed? Any way to keep in place? (like zipties?)

And yes I am still going to repalce intake boots and o-rings, already ordered them, and I even wouldn't bother with the old air boots, but today while trying to order them from dealership they told me they stopped manufacturing them (bike is GS650E).

Please help.. Photos are attached.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/Ievgen_Kasian/IMG_0269_zps96abcd12.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/Ievgen_Kasian/IMG_02711_zps5916fb13.jpg
 
Check out Z1 Enterprises for carb boots and gaskets. The other alternative is soaking them in wintergreen oil. There are some threads on this site on this. It makes the rubber soft and pliable.
 
Thanks, it does seem that they have some, more precisely all but for the center one lol.. How come I wonder?

Also I might be going to the mechanic on a bike to replace the intake boots, do you think the 30 minutes ride of overheating the engine is going to damage it?

Did you try spinning the intake boot? There is a wide side and a narrow side for my two outer ones. Loosen the clamp and try. I had the same problem until I got the position right.

You shouldn't need to go to the mechanic. If you're okay with taking the carb rack off again then use an impact driver (manual or electric) to get those pesky screws out of the head. Replace with good allen bolts. If you think the engine is getting too hot because you're running way lean, don't risk it. Seal your airbox too. I used regular house skinny weatherstripping.

I would think the two center ones have the same part # and the outer ones share another part #.
 
Did you try spinning the intake boot? There is a wide side and a narrow side for my two outer ones. Loosen the clamp and try. I had the same problem until I got the position right.

You shouldn't need to go to the mechanic. If you're okay with taking the carb rack off again then use an impact driver (manual or electric) to get those pesky screws out of the head. Replace with good allen bolts. If you think the engine is getting too hot because you're running way lean, don't risk it. Seal your airbox too. I used regular house skinny weatherstripping.

I would think the two center ones have the same part # and the outer ones share another part #.

WOW man, you literally saved me a trip I think!

Feel so stupid, because after I rotated the outer airbox boot it fit just perfect... However two middle ones are still not as close! Should I ortate them as well, or just try to pus in as close as possible?

Also you mentioned sealing the airbox, sorry for such a stupid question but what part of it do you seal? around the boots? or around the top lid of the air filter itself? (Really new to all this)

Finally I took it for the spin to see whether temmp came down, right now engine temp is around 105c or 220F is that still to hot? (after about 20 minute ride)

Also when you stop the engine it makes slight, very quiet sound, like the sound cars make as well when they cool down, is that bad?

Thanks again!
 
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seal the airbox usually entails installing new carb to airbox boots (rather then silicone sealing old ones into box which if a piece of silicone gets sucked into engine not good) and using closed cell foam tape like you can get at home depot or lowes to seal the lid(s) on the airbox itself. It's the same foam tape they use to seal doors and windows at times amongst other things. I use the 1/4" wide, 1/4" thick stuff and before i lay the tape i clean the surface it will stick to with denatured alcohol to remove as much dirt as possible and promote good adhesion.
Edit: foam weatherstripping is the word I couldn't think of rather than tape. Here is a link with some pics as a bit of a guide.
http://picasaweb.google.com/roostabunny/GS850AirboxFixup
 
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WOW man, you literally saved me a trip I think!

Feel so stupid, because after I rotated the outer airbox boot it fit just perfect... However two middle ones are still not as close! Should I ortate them as well, or just try to pus in as close as possible?

Also you mentioned sealing the airbox, sorry for such a stupid question but what part of it do you seal? around the boots? or around the top lid of the air filter itself? (Really new to all this)

Finally I took it for the spin to see whether temmp came down, right now engine temp is around 105c or 220F is that still to hot? (after about 20 minute ride)

Also when you stop the engine it makes slight, very quiet sound, like the sound cars make as well when they cool down, is that bad?

Thanks again!

Great! If I remember right, the inner airbox boots have a slight taper to them, so rotating them might help.

ShadowFocus broke down the air box sealing as I would have. If your intake boots aren't pliable anymore then they probably aren't sealing perfectly. In that case get fresh ones. You should be able to lightly compress the foam weatherstripping on the airbox lid and seal that good.

I can touch my exhaust for a split second and I think maybe a full second on the cylinder head. This is with hands that can take abnormal abuse. I don't know the proper temp. off hand. If your headers aren't turning crazy colors, plugs aren't super white then it probably isn't too hot. You will hear little exhaust/engine popping noises on cool down. Normal.
 
Great! If I remember right, the inner airbox boots have a slight taper to them, so rotating them might help.

ShadowFocus broke down the air box sealing as I would have. If your intake boots aren't pliable anymore then they probably aren't sealing perfectly. In that case get fresh ones. You should be able to lightly compress the foam weatherstripping on the airbox lid and seal that good.

I can touch my exhaust for a split second and I think maybe a full second on the cylinder head. This is with hands that can take abnormal abuse. I don't know the proper temp. off hand. If your headers aren't turning crazy colors, plugs aren't super white then it probably isn't too hot. You will hear little exhaust/engine popping noises on cool down. Normal.

Awesome, buddy you were a great help! Thank you again.
 
However nobody still told me what is the acceptable temperature of the engine for our gs motorcycles? (not oil)

Because I took another ride, about 2 hours long and it was about 280-300 . Am I burning the engine or it is normal? Help me out guys?
 
When I pull back in the driveway after a good ride and idle a few seconds, it wouldn't surprise me to be upwards of 300 deg. F. If you're not running too lean and you have clean oil at the proper level then it's probably not too hot. I usually shut mine off when it feels like a steady flow of brutally hot air instead of waves. The next time I take mine to work I'll get out our infrared, test it and give you a range.
 
Also, look at the face of the airbox itself. After time they seem to start caving in and are no longer straight flat across. This makes the center boots draw back away from the carb throats and consiquently hard..if not impossible ..to get on and make stay put. What I do is slowly heat soften the plastic and push the centers out with a hammer handle and hold for it to recool back to a flatter state.

Obviously, this doesnt apply to the metal airboxes!!!
 
When I pull back in the driveway after a good ride and idle a few seconds, it wouldn't surprise me to be upwards of 300 deg. F. If you're not running too lean and you have clean oil at the proper level then it's probably not too hot. I usually shut mine off when it feels like a steady flow of brutally hot air instead of waves. The next time I take mine to work I'll get out our infrared, test it and give you a range.

Awesome, thank you so much!
 
Also, look at the face of the airbox itself. After time they seem to start caving in and are no longer straight flat across. This makes the center boots draw back away from the carb throats and consiquently hard..if not impossible ..to get on and make stay put. What I do is slowly heat soften the plastic and push the centers out with a hammer handle and hold for it to recool back to a flatter state.

Obviously, this doesnt apply to the metal airboxes!!!

I am afraid that might be the case with mine, boots are not sitting perfect but better now after tinkering with them, and even without sitting perfectly it doesn't seem that she is running lean.
Well I mean as far as I can tell, since performance is fine and doesn't have any other symptoms of running lean. (steady, good idle)

Thanks for the advice, if needed I might will have to acquire a heat gun and learn how to wield it :)
 
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