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Another rebuild / restoration (GS750)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Doona
  • Start date Start date
Doona - great to follow another UK GSer rebuild. I'm doing a GS1100G but it's taking me 3 times as long as you!

My blog and GS Resources Thread are listed in my signature below.

We have 14 members in our GS Resources UK social group if you want to add your name: UK social group

You never know, we might all meet up one day.

Greetings
 
Right, done a little bit more on the bike:

IMG_1193.jpg


IMG_1194.jpg


Forks, headlight bracket etc fitted.

Whats your views on the fork cover things? They were on the bike when i bought it, but I understand they are not original?

I'm not sure if i like the look or not.
 
In my opinion those fork gaiters look ok. If you're going for a cafe look they work better. If you're bring her back to standard(ish) I think they make the bike look more workmanlike than sporty. Just a matter for personal taste I suppose - but they are the answer to preventing pitting.
 
Cheers, that's kinda my thinking as well. I don't want to build it up, to realise I don't like them and have to disassemble the front end. I might take them off and have a think about it.
 
Great progress on the bike. I like gaiters (fork covers) but I wouldn't use them on a bike I'm keeping stock, but the headers I'd keep in the name of proformance.

cg
 
Hi, like your build i'm currently tinkering with a 79 gs750.I'm just wondering about your engine....i'm just about to remove mine from the frame and its running like a dream so im unsure whether to take apart to get it blasted and then painted or is it best to keep it together and cleanup??????
 
Fork Gaiters

Fork Gaiters

It is my understanding that Great Britain gets a lot of rain. You might want to reconsider the aesthetics vs. functionality argument carefully. Now if you plan on only taking it out when it is sunny, and don't mind constantly cleaning the fork tubes to remove acidic bug guts, and keeping them oiled/waxed. Then take them off, but they may be the reason you don't need fork seals, or need to have the tubes re-chromed.
 
Cheers fellas, still undecided on the gaiters, but in any even the bike will be a fair weather only ride. The weather can be rubbish in the UK, & to be fair, I have ridden through a few winters & it is not fun. Both the bikes will go away in the winter & not come out until the weather gets better.

Bomber: I left the engine complete, as it was running ok (needs a carb rebuild), but the compression was good on all the cylinders. The cleaning was a royal pain in the a**, but the results are pretty good, even if i say so myself.

I used a paraffin gun attached to a compressor & shot lots a 'gunk' degreaser through it. Then it was wire brushes (of various sizes) lots of hot soapy water, job done! (it did take me about 4 days)
Then it was 3 x coats of engine enamel (aluminium colour). The pictures flatter it a bit, but it has turned out nice.

Got a bit more done on the brakes today:

Started like this:

IMG_1203.jpg


IMG_1205.jpg


Got this far:

IMG_1204.jpg



Now i need some help, coz the carbs are getting close to the top of the 'to do' list.

Can anyone give me a breakdown of what i need to replace when i rebuild them & suppliers?

I have never done carbs before, so I intend to go through them with the aid of the forum.

Cheers Rich
 
Don't be scared of those VM carbs at all. they are simple to work on and tune up. Just a note of caution. make sure you put the float bowl caps on when not actively working on the jets. The choke tube is brass and snaps very easily (ask me how I know :-\\\). Anyway, just be careful of that part and the best way to keep it intact is to keep the float bowl on the carb. Oh and the air screws are glued in using paint, be very careful removing them as they are also brass and strip easily.
 
So finished a bit more on the brakes:

IMG_1206.jpg


The union block has been media blasted, a coat of etch primer, a coat of normal primer & then 2 x coats of satin black. Considering what i started with, I'm fair happy with the result.

All the callipers have been rebuild as well, so its just the master cylinders that need the same treatment.



Cheers for the advice on the carbs, as i said, 1st time for me, so I am a bit daunted be them. I read through the tutorial (on Basscliffs site) last night, but I wanted to confirm a couple of things;

I take it this is the VM variant?

IMG_1208.jpg


IMG_1207.jpg


If so i intend to order the complete O ring set (but as it comes from the States, i need to make sure i order the correct ones!)

I have had a quick look at them & they have clearly been 'bodged' by the previous owner(s)

IMG_1212.jpg


Its a nylock nut & wood screw!!!!!!

IMG_1214.jpg


I reckon they snapped off the proper screw, judging by the next image:

IMG_1216.jpg


Can you still get replacements??? Thats assuming I can get the snapped bit out!
 
So finished a bit more on the brakes:

IMG_1206.jpg


The union block has been media blasted, a coat of etch primer, a coat of normal primer & then 2 x coats of satin black. Considering what i started with, I'm fair happy with the result.

All the callipers have been rebuild as well, so its just the master cylinders that need the same treatment.

and to really finish up the brakes get some Stainless Steel lines for the bike from this guy

http://www.rennsportautoparts.com/Default.asp

send him an email on what you need, he might have it for your bike and if not, he will work with you to get the right measurements, and you will get something like this from him.

P1060877.jpg



more pics

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1549077&postcount=225

.
 
Very nice!, Can i be cheeky & ask how much they game to? (PM me if you like) I need to add postage as well i guess.
 
For all that I got, it was 120 CDN dollars and that was shipped, a bit higher only because I had the 2 extra lines that go to the anti dive.

He also has an Ebay web store, but just send a PM to the addy showing on the page I linked and let him know what your after, very nice guy and his product is top notch and shipping shouldn't be too bad, I believe a few of the guys down under, in Australia have used him as well...
 
You do indeed have VM carbs on there. The drain plug is still available new - part # 13247-45010 (?6.98 at Robinsons). The o ring comes with the kit from Robert Barr.
 
I see Hampshirehog answered your question. Yes those are VM28SS carbs, I'm pretty sure they are physically identical to the VM29 (except for venturi size) they were also used on the old KZ900/Z1000. So spares and parts are readily obtainable.
 
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