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Another rebuild / restoration (GS750)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Doona
  • Start date Start date
The carbs are actually VM26SS - not 28s. The easy 'tell-tales' are the choke lifters (solid ends on the 28s), choke lever (28s have a cable operated choke) and the idle adjuster knob is underneath on 28s.

26s were standard fitment on the 750 (though there are several variants with different internals) and the 28s were confined to some 1000s.
 
Ok, so got a little more done on my bike, but before we get to that, i have a quick question about my seat.

IMG_1223.jpg


I need to a replacement cover, & there are loads of different styles. Does any one know what the official name for it is? (I know its called a seat, i mean the model:))
 
GateKeeper said:
For all that I got, it was 120 CDN dollars and that was shipped, a bit higher only because I had the 2 extra lines that go to the anti dive.

He also has an Ebay web store, but just send a PM to the addy showing on the page I linked and let him know what your after, very nice guy and his product is top notch and shipping shouldn't be too bad, I believe a few of the guys down under, in Australia have used him as well...
Click to expand...

Not to hijack the thread, but I just ordered rennsport's set for the 1100E. Yours look fantastic. Are they as good as the pictures show them? The 6 lines were $129.95CDN. Most guys were in the $50 per line area. I hope they're good.

Back to Doona's resto.
 
6pkrunner said:
Not to hijack the thread, but I just ordered rennsport's set for the 1100E. Yours look fantastic. Are they as good as the pictures show them? The 6 lines were $129.95CDN. Most guys were in the $50 per line area. I hope they're good.

Back to Doona's resto.
Click to expand...

Yes !!

I believe they are very good, nice and solid feel to them, crimps are good, angles are spot on, length was correct and so on, I took the clear over the stainless, but he has other colors to chose from, plus he will send the banjo bolts (single, not for double line that is extra I believe) and all new crush washers as well
 
Hi all thanks for the help.

Hampshiredog: I thought it was original, but it could be aftermarket i guess? I haven't stripped it yet (I have too much in bits at the mo, its the next job whilst I'm waiting for my O ring set to arrive) Is it the pattern thats different then?
 
No I'm sorry. Those fork gaiters just have to go. It will take 10 years of the bike sitting outside for them to get pitted and rusty. You won't let them get that bad again surely. I mean the front forks look like an old British banger from the '60s. IMVHO.

Greetings

P.S. Love the bike. Had one myself about 35 years ago. Took my girlfriend to the South of France on it. Damn that was a great trip.
 
Last edited:
Cheers Londonboards. Been following your restoration as well, looks like its coming along a treat
 
Wheels:

Someone suggested that the bike had previously been owned by 'Prince' :)

The wheels have clearly been painted at some point & in fairness aren't in too bad condition

IMG_1236.jpg


The rims have been polished at some point as well, its tarnished, but not pitted, which is a result.

So i got to work with the alloy wheel cleaner, cleaning all the muck & grime from years of neglect. Then it was onto the wire wool.

Masking out, I was lazy & just masked the rim & not the spokes. Then it was satin black rattle can paint.

IMG_1238.jpg


Prior to it drying properly, i got a couple of cotton wool buds, some paint thinners & a steady hand.

I then swiped the paint from the spoke area.

IMG_1240.jpg


result is pretty good. Next it will be wire wool and then T cut.

What everyone's views on clear coat? Should i spray the whole rim (including the alloy)

Cheers
 
NO clear coat, it will just yellow, crack, chip, etc....

use a good polish on the rims and call it a day, a few minutes of polishing will be less work in the long run then trying to get the clear off and you will have to then repaint...etc....

my opinion

.
 
I have found with the polishes that are commercially available the lacquer doesn't adhere as good as it could, plus the above mentioned dulling, yellowing, cracking. Once you have them buffed up, a weekly wipe will keep them in good shape. Ignore them and its all over again.

*EDIT* and I agree with the Prince reference.:)
 
+1 on NO lacquer, I tried several including powdercoating and that alloy always found a way of looking crap after a while, even under an intact lacquer finish :confused:
 
If you use a clear use urathane its flexiable and does Not yellow sand the wheel with 800 grit then 1500 a little bulldog and you wont have to touch them again
 
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