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Any good reason not to bypass kill switch

  • Thread starter Thread starter Boriqua
  • Start date Start date
I like the idea of always using the kill switch to turn off the bike. With that being my habit, when an emergency arises, I don't even need to think about how to kill the bike.
 
Time you get the thought to hit the switch whatever is happening usually already has. About the only use is to kill the engine if its laying on it side so it doesn't seize due to oil starvation. Or to prevent a fire if the tanks leaking. But in ewither of these instances its already way past "thinking" or instinctively "reacting" to hit the switch.
 
chuck hahn said:
Time you get the thought to hit the switch whatever is happening usually already has. About the only use is to kill the engine if its laying on it side so it doesn't seize due to oil starvation. Or to prevent a fire if the tanks leaking. But in ewither of these instances its already way past "thinking" or instinctively "reacting" to hit the switch.
Click to expand...

Hey Chuck .. have you bypassed or disabled your switch or do you just not bother with it. I would have thought to leave mine alone and just not use it if it hadnt been for my past towing incident and yesterday accidentally flipping it.
 
Boriqua said:
Hey Chuck .. have you bypassed or disabled your switch or do you just not bother with it. I would have thought to leave mine alone and just not use it if it hadnt been for my past towing incident and yesterday accidentally flipping it.
Click to expand...

If you neglect it, it remains a failure point. Personally I'd either fix it so it works or bypass it so it doesn't become a future failure point. Either way but just ignoring is probably not a prudent decision.
 
well I bought some contact cleaner and will pull it apart tomorrow and have a looksy. I will decide then whether the solder iron comes out!! :)
 
I just leave THEM alone. When any of them finally give up then ghost I will clip the wires and hot wire it inside the switch box. Until that happens they arent getting flipped on and off.
 
The only problem I have with the kill switch is people using them and then forgetting to turn off the key and wearing their battery down. That's why I stress the use of the key only. I can't tell you how many times I've see people not being able to start their bike, only to find out they didn't put the switch back to the run position. Plus with Honda's, the engine will turn over without firing with the kill switch in the off position, so they never think about seeing if it is in the run position.
 
gsrick said:
Plus with Honda's, the engine will turn over without firing with the kill switch in the off position, so they never think about seeing if it is in the run position.
Click to expand...
Make that SOME Hondas. :-k

I don't know exactly what year it changed, but the Goldwing would do that, up through about '96 or '97. We would walk down the line of bikes at a rally and randomly move the kill switch, then watch the frustration. My 2000 Wing will not crank if the kill switch is in the OFF position.

.
 
Steve said:
Make that SOME Hondas. :-k

I don't know exactly what year it changed, but the Goldwing would do that, up through about '96 or '97. We would walk down the line of bikes at a rally and randomly move the kill switch, then watch the frustration. My 2000 Wing will not crank if the kill switch is in the OFF position.

.
Click to expand...
I didn't know that. I'm mostly working on CBR600 and CBR1000s and they all still turn over. Makes some testing easy not having to raise the tank and disconnect the fuel pump.
 
Cosmically, I ended up looking at my 400E's contact switch yesterday because the starter button failed me when I wanted to goto town... luckily I have a lot of bikes but it took me another half an hour to choose....:)

On my orange toggle type (have you the same?) a mere glob of solder would do it... a piece of tin tucked in across the two contacts might also do as well. But your original complaint is that yours moves too easily so maybe just tucking some "friction" ( a bit of innertube? etc.) on the other side of the switch from the contacts would fix this too?
 
Gorminrider said:
Cosmically, I ended up looking at my 400E's contact switch yesterday because the starter button failed me when I wanted to goto town... luckily I have a lot of bikes but it took me another half an hour to choose....:)

On my orange toggle type (have you the same?) a mere glob of solder would do it... a piece of tin tucked in across the two contacts might also do as well. But your original complaint is that yours moves too easily so maybe just tucking some "friction" ( a bit of innertube? etc.) on the other side of the switch from the contacts would fix this too?
Click to expand...

My wife picked up contact cleaner yesterday. It was 9 freagin dollars!! I guess now I am obligated to use it. Ugh ... If I knew it would have been 9 dollars I would have just broke out the solder iron.

Anyone think of other stuff to do on the bike with my rather expensive can of stuff. Has to be some other crap I can sray.
 
Never heard of only using the ignition switch instead of the kill and ignition switches. My OEM ignition switch began to fail on me. Had it resoldered at a cell phone repair shop and it failed again shortly after. Just saying the ignition switch isn't infallible either. I replaced it with an Emgo unit and I continue to use the ignition switch and kill switch. Based on the comments here, maybe I should leave the kill switch on run and use my new ignition switch only.
 
Boriqua said:
My wife picked up contact cleaner yesterday. It was 9 freagin dollars!! I guess now I am obligated to use it. Ugh ... If I knew it would have been 9 dollars I would have just broke out the solder iron.

Anyone think of other stuff to do on the bike with my rather expensive can of stuff. Has to be some other crap I can sray.
Click to expand...

Lots of electrical plugs on a GS.....
 
I like my kill switch, it has saved my butt a few times, especially on a hill or two.
 
Boriqua said:
My wife picked up contact cleaner yesterday. It was 9 freagin dollars!! I guess now I am obligated to use it. Ugh ... If I knew it would have been 9 dollars I would have just broke out the solder iron.

Anyone think of other stuff to do on the bike with my rather expensive can of stuff. Has to be some other crap I can sray.
Click to expand...

My can of contact cleaner has a picture of a guy working on tube radios!
Really, the stuff is not needed often except on an old transistor radio with a scratchy dial volume control or the odd Suzuki switch that has the contact points plainly accessible.
the multi-connectors on the harness can be happier with a careful squirt but don't do em until you happen to be taking them apart..

Think of it as an investment, that will pay off long term. But don't get it in your eyes. :)Wearing gloves is a modern idea too. the stuff comes out awful fast if you're not super gentle on the button so back drop with cloth around so it doesn't get on any paint...
 
Steve said:
I will agree with the "emergency" part, but the kill switch handles less current than the ignition key switch. :-k

If you are using the key to save wear and tear, all you are doing is pitting the contacts there, rather than the kill switch, which is less likely to do that, due to lower current.

.
Click to expand...
Now THAT is a good point I can use to bolster my own bias!
Seems to me the key switch could be much closer to the battery saving a long loop up to the handlebars (old school I recall..?) But the modern convenenience of incorporating the fork lock too.
Plus with Honda's, the engine will turn over without firing with the kill switch in the off position, so they never think about seeing if it is in the run position.
Click to expand...
yes I think that would be those with the extra highly wound coil on the stator CX500 comes to mind. "Off" actually grounds the CDI unit versus the so-similar GL500 that works like ours...
 
Last edited:
Gorminrider said:
My can of contact cleaner has a picture of a guy working on tube radios!
Really, the stuff is not needed often except on an old transistor radio with a scratchy dial volume control or the odd Suzuki switch that has the contact points plainly accessible.
the multi-connectors on the harness can be happier with a careful squirt but don't do em until you happen to be taking them apart..

Think of it as an investment, that will pay off long term. But don't get it in your eyes. :)Wearing gloves is a modern idea too. the stuff comes out awful fast if you're not super gentle on the button so back drop with cloth around so it doesn't get on any paint...
Click to expand...

Grumble grump grumble ... I knew it. When I was 30 and I bought something that was gong to last forever I was all ... Cool wont have to buy this again. Now .. if the can lasts 20 years ... well it will probably have been part of my daughters inheritance!!

Gong to have to buy another bike now just so I can use the spray! :)
 
Cipher said:
hook up a lanyard switch to your nipple clamp.
Click to expand...

... I always did that with my snowmobiles...I had two times that I guess I was having way too much fun pitching her around and parted ways with the sled....not so bad in powder snow or a banked S corner...
 
80GS850GBob said:
... I always did that with my snowmobiles...I had two times that I guess I was having way too much fun pitching her around and parted ways with the sled....not so bad in powder snow or a banked S corner...
Click to expand...

Btw... that was with a lanyard "only".....I've got enough holes in my head as it is....no body piercings for me.
 
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