S
Sparkster
Guest
Disclaimer:
Everything mentioned here is pretty much specific to my 1980 GS 850g. Do a reality check on your own wiring before doing anything rash. And don't violate any federal lighting regs. Not that there's any federal police driving around with photometers and ticket books...
If 1 then this is your 12v+ lead and your negative terminals from the LEDs will need grounded to the ground screw inside the flasher housing. The flasher housing then grounds to the chassis when its all hooked up.
If 2 then EITHER one should be ground and one should be 12v+ OR both are 12v+; one for turn signal and one for running lights. Mine was like that; red for turn signal, blue for running light but I don't know if it was factory or an aftermarker addition by a previous owner.
If 3 then one will be ground and TWO will be 12v+ (one of those will be a running light and one will be the flasher lead. Use a volt meter to find out by turning the turn signal on and off.
I cut the plexi into a square small enough that, once the corners were ground off, it would fit inside the signal... (On the flasher housing the bigger screw hole is the ground screw)
I then drilled pairs of tiny holes about a centimeter apart for each LED to be mounted:
Just make sure that when you feed them power you do so in parallell, NOT series. You want them all sharing the same common hot and ground connections as opposed to the neg from one wiring to the pos from the previous in a chain. If you get these from the "Light of Victory" guy on ebay they will always come with resistors rated for use with 12v. Heat has never been a problem for me using his resistors.
Everything mentioned here is pretty much specific to my 1980 GS 850g. Do a reality check on your own wiring before doing anything rash. And don't violate any federal lighting regs. Not that there's any federal police driving around with photometers and ticket books...
Your signals will contain 1, 2, or 3 wires running to them:... I'm just trying to visualize how I would get the power to the plexie lights...
If 1 then this is your 12v+ lead and your negative terminals from the LEDs will need grounded to the ground screw inside the flasher housing. The flasher housing then grounds to the chassis when its all hooked up.
If 2 then EITHER one should be ground and one should be 12v+ OR both are 12v+; one for turn signal and one for running lights. Mine was like that; red for turn signal, blue for running light but I don't know if it was factory or an aftermarker addition by a previous owner.
If 3 then one will be ground and TWO will be 12v+ (one of those will be a running light and one will be the flasher lead. Use a volt meter to find out by turning the turn signal on and off.
The relay replaces the existing one. You will find it under the right side cover and it is a black rectangular box mounted to the battery box. Lift up to slide it off its mount. It is a three prong but replace it with the two prong pictured. It will then not be exposed.that relay to get the LED to flash...common places those are placed?.. I'm sure I don't want it too exposed...
Not sure if this will be excessively easy. Soldering is the most reliable method of wiring everything and the only way to make it "easily switchable" is to use something like a twist on splicer. I wouldn't trust those for bike lighting.Idealy I would try and keep the units swapable to easily switch back to standard bulbs if I so chose to.
I cut the plexi into a square small enough that, once the corners were ground off, it would fit inside the signal... (On the flasher housing the bigger screw hole is the ground screw)
I then drilled pairs of tiny holes about a centimeter apart for each LED to be mounted:
Just make sure that when you feed them power you do so in parallell, NOT series. You want them all sharing the same common hot and ground connections as opposed to the neg from one wiring to the pos from the previous in a chain. If you get these from the "Light of Victory" guy on ebay they will always come with resistors rated for use with 12v. Heat has never been a problem for me using his resistors.
Last edited: