Hi All , I am restoring a 1979 GS 1000 S . The bike has been sitting a very long time , since like 1982 ( still had gas in the tank from then ) I knew there would be some issues but not the one that brought me to a halt. It had an old RC eng. pipe that was pretty much completely rusted off. I knew the motor was locked so I started putting Rust penetrate down the plug holes a couple months ago although a lot of it just ran out what was left of the head pipes. So I tried rocking the rear wheel with it in gear - wont budge. Tried the big nut on end of crank , don't want to break the end of crank off but still wont budge. Pulled the head off , more rust penetrate. #2 & 3 cylinders are at TDC. Head & cams look really good. Thought maybe I could pry cylinder off but not many pry points without messing up mating surface on crankcase - wont budge . Tried heating everything up with blow torch and sacrificing cylinder by using sledge hammer - still won't budge. Anyone have any ideas or have a spare motor they want to sell ?
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Any suggestions for freeing stuck pistons in cylinder
- Thread starter fasterzx
- Start date
if its feasible try the rear wheel trick again but go through the motions of a bump start. Far more energy input that way. Do be ready on the clutch if the tire breaks loose.
It is definitely is stuck with rust. Doesn't look that bad to me, Don't think a picture would show much. So started probably 3 months ago with PB Blaster sprayed down the plug holes. Didn't realize pistons 2 & 3 were at TDC until I got the head off. What ever I put in the cylinders does disappear after a while. #3 is the slowest to drain. After posting I tried a couple of the suggestions. I put the front wheel on the lift and raised it to level the engine as the PB Blaster was pooling at the front of the cylinders. Tried a mixture of diesel and Marvel oil and let that sit a couple days and back to the sledgehammer - no luck. More soaking for a day and then Tiki torch wicks soaked in kerosene burning on top of the pistons for an hour or so - more sledgehammer. Tried a gear puller after that with the bolt on top of the piston . Still won't budge , not even a little. Somebody mentioned patience but I guess at this point I have ran out of it. The bike is pretty much all original unmolested other than the pipe as far as I can tell and I was hoping to keep and rebuild the original engine. But at this point I have all the body work painted ( came out excellent ) staring me in the face. I have ordered another engine supposedly from a 7500 mile runner when pulled. I'll set this engine aside and keep pouring stuff in but when I read stories of stuck tractor motors taking 2 to 3 years to unstick I might not have that long. Thanks for all the suggestions.
I've un-locked 2 Honda single cam 750 engines by putting eng. in 5th gear and sitting on bike, on both wheels, just keep rocking back and forth, your weight on the bike will help keep tire from slipping and having in 5th gear will put a lot more gearing pressure to rotate the eng.
First Welcome, Now, sorry but I'm not understanding the questions, I don't see piston dia. affecting head cover at all. Nor am I understanding crankshaft degrees, crankshaft got to go 360 degrees. Also I wouldn't think a 63mm piston would fit in a 550.
Use the penetrant of choice from the suggestions. Leave plugs out and let sit for minimum of 2 weeks. Remove drive chain. Using 1st gear, Use HD impact driver on countershaft nut. you will have to rotate the engine backwards or the nut will loosen up. Someone chime in if turning backwards is a dumb idea.
you do realize metal is impermeable? nd that any chemical reaction in galvanic corrosion would occure far sooner than two weeks?
Yes. The time period mentioned is an attempt to give the penetrants time to work. With a seizure of this magnitude, what happens to the piston and bore are secondary to a point. Saving the pistons is out of the question and cylinders can be replaced, bored or re-sleeved depending on the owners intent on keeping it original. Any galvanic? corrosion has already occurred. The penetrants or other solutions mentioned here are petroleum based and should not cause more corrosion.
I wonder if getting some schedule 40 electrical pvc pipe slightly smaller than the bore diameter & some steel angle iron or box tubing wide enough to strap heavy duty ratchet straps on each side of 1-4 cylinders & another angle iron/box piece below frame with wood shims between frame rails & oil pan. Cut the pvc pipe into 1/2" rounds over 2-3 cylinders to start (assuming 2-3 or more stuck than 1-4), crank ratchet straps to more than snug & work the bolt on end of crankshaft in the proper direction to push the pistons down from TDC. Or 2 all-threads with bolts on each end, drilled thru angle iron or box. Maybe a second set of hands to do ratchets while one works the crankshaft bolt.
Have no idea if this would work, just a thought
Have no idea if this would work, just a thought
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