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Anybody recognize this voltage regulator/recifier?

ddaniels

Forum Sage
Mounted to the bottom of the battery box on my new GS1000G?
IMG_0873.jpg
 
Not OEM. The seller gave me a box full of stuff too, and the OEM one was in the box. I think this monstrosity is bad because when I hooked up the battery charger and tried cranking the bike over, all of a sudden a little smoke started coming out of the left side where all the stuff is. I found out that one of the yellow wires connected to this R/R had started to melt the insulation off. Anybody know why that would happen?
 
Loose connection or moisture in the connection. Guess its time to get the voltmeter out and go through the stator papers.

Does the bike run?
 
Loose connection or moisture in the connection. Guess its time to get the voltmeter out and go through the stator papers.

Does the bike run?
Yep. I was digging for the multimeter in the garage, but so far the darn thing has eluded me. I really need to clean out my man-cave.
 
I've seen those before somewhere, but I can't put a name to it.

I see it's nicely grounded... to the rubber-mounted battery box. Just like OEM. :rolleyes:

Ah well. It should be pretty straightforward to sort out.

But be careful -- wouldn't want a fire to mar that gorgeous tank!
 
Ground that R/R to the battery and frame.
Solder the connections from the stator and shrink wrap.
 
Ground that R/R to the battery and frame.
Solder the connections from the stator and shrink wrap.

Before he does all that shouldn't he test it to make sure it works?
 
size does not matter comes to mind after seeing that thing.. Still my much smaller electrosport stator and r/r working good...
 
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Ground that R/R to the battery and frame.
Solder the connections from the stator and shrink wrap.
Is it really necessary to solder those connections? What if I want/need to disconnect some day? Then I have to cut them apart. What's wrong with just a good spade connector?
 
Is it really necessary to solder those connections? What if I want/need to disconnect some day? Then I have to cut them apart. What's wrong with just a good spade connector?
I've had too many failures there to mention. No problems since I did this.
I may have been using cheapo spade connectors. Bought them at the local Auto Parts joint.
 
Connections made using a professional die crimper (not the $4 cheapie from the hardware store) are supposedly superior to soldered connections, especially where there's vibration.

I finally drank the Kool-Aid and bought a good ratcheting die crimper last year (and lots of quality connectors). So far, I've been quite happy. I have seen poorly soldered connections fail, but with the crimper, it's either a good tight connection or it pulls apart -- there's no guessing.

I also use antioxidant grease on all connections and cover everything with heat shrink.
 
$15 too much for you? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97420

Regarding grounding that R/R, it might not work if you don't. Look close at the wires to see where the ground path runs. And for heavens sakes, don't use the rubber mounted battery like Suzuki did.
I have one of those, but not the ratcheting type. Requires hand strength.

I'm definitely going to ground directly to the negative battery terminal. But first I need to find out if the R/R is good. What setting on the multimeter do I go to to test it? Mine has DC V, AC V, DC A, and Ohms. Do I have the correct kind to do the test spelled out in the stator papers?
 
I have the RTL ratchet crimper from Vintage Connections.
It's $35 but well worth it..
It comes with the dies for open barrel connectors.
Those are the OEM type.. It makes beautiful factory looking crimps.

http://www.vintageconnections.com/

I have to do the R/R plugs tonight. I can take pics of the crimps and post em if you want.
 
Do I have the correct kind to do the test spelled out in the stator papers?

You should be fine with your multimeter. You'll need a fully charged battery to test the system.
 
If I read the stator papers correctly (always a possibility that I didn't) you have to disconnect the R/R completely to test it. The battery would not be in the loop. I am I wrong?
 
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