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Anyone running a turbo?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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I am customizing a '79 GS1000. It will be ridden on the street, but not as daily transport. A *sleeper* is what I am after.

I'm worried about how the air-cooled motor will handle the heat if I decide to turbo-charge this engine. I see drag-racers do it, but those guys are known for blowing stuff up. What am I going to have to do to the oiling system to get it to handle the turbo?

If you have turbo-ed your bike, please advise. I can go with naturally aspirated mods just as easily, but I like the kompressor idea better.
 
Unforturnantly he never gave us any information about the oil system on that bike and I don't think he every posted where it was all working.

I suggest you go to dragbike.com, forums, turbos.
I have used turbocharging for both street and drag racing. My stuff is VERY old though and I don't think any information I could give you would be of much help. You can always go to my website and click on the bike.

The best advice I can give you would be to buy a kit, or copy someones designs that already work.

Good luck.
 
I know what your after, but having a turbo will hinder your sleeper approach...they are hard to hide :lol:
 
You will need a clutch hub for sure. Welded crank,good valve springs and a host of other things. Honestly you are getting ready to spend some big money then when its all done a stock hayabusa will outrun you. Just the facts. Think about it before you go that far.
 
cbxchris said:
You will need a clutch hub for sure. Welded crank,good valve springs and a host of other things. Honestly you are getting ready to spend some big money then when its all done a stock hayabusa will outrun you. Just the facts. Think about it before you go that far.
hide a bottle of nitrous, 1/3rd the money, and maybe you can talk the hyabusa into spoting you a few bike lengths then youll have a real shot. :lol:
 
Hi, thanks everybody!

Hi, thanks everybody!

The link to the 7/11 site was really helpful, as were all the replies. I'm still deciding whether or not I want to spend the $$$$ on this or not. Running squeeze had not even occurred to me, and it might be the best solution from a cost/benefit standpoint.

On the other hand, I have developed a warped Pavlovian response to turbocharged bikes: I see one, I start to drool!
 
I currently have a '78 GS1000 2v that has been turbo'd for five years. First year was some street riding, otherwise drag racing. Hasn't broken yet, despite the fact that I'm leaning on it pretty hard and have not performed many of the "mandatory" modifications typically recommended.

You have to understand how the power is generated and be intelligent in your approach. A motor will with stand more horsepower from a turbo than it will from the high compression/big cam/big carb route, a supercharger or the nitrous route.

Probably lots of opinions on this, but it seems to be proven in the performance and durability of the turbo'd bikes out there.

Search for forum entries I've posted over the last several months and you'll find a fair amount of information on my setup as well as some pictures. I'm convinced that turbo is the way.
 
I also had a 78 GS 1000, old ATP turbo kit ( Paid $200for it )it used a rayjay 25b turbo@ 17 lb boost ,welded crank, 1026cc pistons,APE valve springs and a modified KZ basket . The rest was stock . it ran a best of 5.49 @ 120 something .it never damaged any engine parts in 5-6 years of racing almost every weekend. Massakins is correct Turbocharging is the way to go. Same engine with a 40ef turbo the bike went 5.29@129mph
 
Shnikeeeees!!!!!!!!!

Shnikeeeees!!!!!!!!!

8O What to do, what to do? Have a whole bunch of fun or pay the rent? Hmmm... :D
 
Hi there,
I'm Marco, the GSX1168 turbo owner that the link refers to. Although I built it myself I'm not a turbo-guru, only a shady-tree mechanic. 8)

Lecroy, was your comment aimed at me? My bike runs fine, and is currently undergoing some detailing because the weather is very poor here, with lots of snow. You can be sure the dynosheet will be on the site when available.

The obvious route to tackle the oiling problem is to put GS 750 pumpgear in, then make an oil take-off point at the oilpressure switch, where you normally would put the tempsensor. You need to put a big oil-return somewhere in the clutchcover, making sure the returnline is sloping downward at all time.

Surprisingly maybe, a turbomotor on the road will suffer less heat than a ''normal'' bike would, because of the lower compression rate. Only when using the full turbo-power for longer duration (more than 10 seconds), heat will build up causing power fade. But who uses 200 Hp for more than 10 seconds on the road? Not me! I only run a small oilcooler and haven't had problems yet. The engine developed more heat when it had the 1168cc 10.25:1 setup.

I've taken the turbo-route because it interests me, and in the end it will be cheaper- or as expensive- as doing natural aspirated big-bore tuning. I think all in all I've spent $1000 on my engine strengthening/ turbo setup. Building a bike like mine isn't very difficult. (Because, well... err... I could do it, see?) :wink: I agree you don't need the full dragworks such as straight cut gears, IMHO it isn't needed for the street. But I would urge you to weld the crank, put HD studs in and put a backplate on the clutchbasket. Also you need adj. camwheels to correct the base-spacer height.

I don't know what power can be taken out of a 2v GS 1000 turbo, but hey... Even if it makes as much or little more power as a 'Busa, wouldn't this make a much more interesting (and surprising) bike?... :twisted:

If you go the turbo-route, please put decent brakes and suspension on it too.

Let me know if I can assist you in any way.

Greetings, Marco.
 
Marco, I was refering to your comment: ".... and I'm still ironing out hefty carb problems....".

The Rajay is a high pressure bearing. They wanted something like 30psi with about a quart of oil per minute. That was the only reason I changed to the 750 gears. Even with the 750 gears I can't meet the flow rates. I get close to a quart when I start to build pressure. I don't know what the newer turbos require for flow and pressure. I guess a few of the guys run a small electric lift pump with the new bikes and supply the turbo off the mechanical pump.

The first turbo I bought I think cost about $800 back in the mid 80's. I lost the bearing in just a few passes. I think it was from cutting the engine at the end of the track. After that I had a second bearing fail last summer.
 
My first turbo was in 1978 on a GS1000. What a learning experience. I ran turbo`s for years drag racing. The new fuel injected bikes like hayabusa`s are light years ahead for tractability on the street. You can get one so fine tuned that it will actually run better than a stock bike. Making easily 350HP. My problem still with doing the 1000 is you still have a late 70`s suspension and frame. The 1000 is not nearly as good a motor as a 1100/1150 for turbo charging. And those are not as good for street use as a hayabusa. What the 1100 series bike offers is a unlimited aftermarket supply of parts. Personally I would do a hayabusa. I guess it boils down to what you want. I just never had a lot of luck with the carbs on a street turbo and I treid a lot of them. Drag racing was a completely different matter.
 
And the hits just keep on comin'!!!

And the hits just keep on comin'!!!

I already have GSXR front setup, and a ninja rear suspension with 1100 Katana wheel. I braced the frame accordingly. Should be *ace* chassis-wise.

I ordered some 1100 bodywork from pointshyofgenius (I think he posts here?) so my bike can look all nasty and stuff.

I am still only $1100 into this bike :D :D :D! I think I can do this shadetree style and still come in under $3000, realizing that I risk blowing the motor up and upsetting restoration purists.

Thanks for all the responses. Reading these posts is my version of "Measure twice, cut once." I appreciate all of it.

Oh. Hayabusa? Great bike. Probably a thousand times better than anything I can build, but not my style. I like gnarly old dinosaurs and Brit-style streetfighters circa 1992. In 15 years I will like the 'busa.

Cheers everybody.
 
Hi Lecroy,
Sorry, thought it was about the oil issue. I don't think that the Gs750 gears are able to satisfy the spec-needs for my turbo either, but everyone seems to do it this way and the turbos keep running ok. The hefty carb problems were caused by old and brittle o-rings in the T-s that connect to the floatbowls. This way, because of the pressure leaks, the fuel gets blown back instead of drawn in. Fixed now. Liked your site by the way!

Dictator,
After everything I've read about the 2v GS, I have to agree with CBXChris that it might not be the best engine for turbo-ing. So, what I would do is keep the 2v motor as it is, only put an extra steel plate in the clutch, then build a ''shadytree'' turbosystem on it which is limited to 7psi. It'll probably give something like 140-160HP. This will keep the engine in one piece, and if you have the money/ inclination you can put a ''seriously adapted'' 4v 1100 engine in later, or rebuild the 2v. The frame stuff sounds cool! Must be a major improvement. BTW do you have CV carbs or the older slide carbs on it? The sliders aren't suitable for pressure I'm afraid. :?

So, think about it some more (and save up in the mean time :lol: ) and don't start doing anything on the ''shadytree'' turbo until you have summer-time proof from me that all works absolutely OK, dyno sheet and all.

Greetz, Marco.

Ps: Busas are great but my turbobike costs about $3500 all-in, where a Turbobusa may set you back at least $10.000. Not really in the same league. And how many times do you see one on the road?
 
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