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Best way to keep carbs clean during extended storage?

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS2GO
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GS2GO

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I am putting my 1982 GS1100G into indefinate storage, and would like to know the best way to keep the carbs from getting gummed up. I've been through the carb cleaning process a few times and am not looking forward to doing it again. I use Stabil during winter and it runs great now. I'm hoping to keep it that way. Any suggestions?
 
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GS2GO said:
I am putting my 1982 GS1100G into indefinate storage, and would like to know the best way to keep the carbs from getting gummed up. I've been through the carb cleaning process a few times and am not looking forward to doing it again. I use Stable during winter and it runs great now. I'm hoping to keep it that way. Any suggestions?
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Drain them. if there is no fuel in there then it can't dry out and clog the jets.
 
The generally method seems to be Stabil, run the bike a bit, then drain the carbs. Not sure about how to prevent the tank from rusting though.
 
I use a mixture of Stabil and Sea-Foam. Pour it in, run the bike for a few to get it into the carbs, then store.

This is only for the Winter, though. Not sure longer term.

You do want to avoid having fuel in the bowls and allowing it to evaporate off over time. A friend of mine would start his every month or so for a few, thinking that was helping, but all it was doing was replenishing the fuel supply, which would evaporate off, causing deposits in the main-jet to build. Ultimately it wouldn't run any-longer, and, upon inspection, I found that his main jets were completely clogged.
 
I would run your tank low using stabil then drain the carbs ( leave out the drain screws for thee / four days then reinstall them. As for the tank enpty out the remaining fuel, spray wd40 in and around the inside drain out excess. store the tank somewhere dry and preferably warmish.
 
Drain them and blow some air down the fuel line for 3 or 4 minutes. The air will push that last little bit out and also blow it out of the holes in the jets. My Cooley was laid away for 15 1/2 months. Threw a battery in and a gallon of gas and rode way like I had ridden it yesterday.
 
Before I put my bike in for it's winter nap, I put a good fresh dose of the marine Stabil (the blue stuff) in the tank and run it for one final ride . I drain the tank down, remove it, and put it somewhere where the temperature doesn't swing much...my basement! This scheme has yet to fail me....come spring, bike starts right up with no issues. For extended storage, consider sealing gas tank cap so no moisture can creep in and attack innards.
 
To keep the tank from rusting fill it up with non-oxygenated (no ethanol) No air = no rust. Oxygenated fuel will go bad and attract water. A stable storage place is nice. That means no crazy temp swings in the spring & out of the elements. I used to store bikes for side money and here's my procedure for 30+ years. Add sta-bil. Go for extended last joy ride. Top off with good fuel at nearest station. Turn off gas a couple of blocks from home and run it till it dies. Drain float bowls while on center stand. Change oil and filter when hot. My GS1000 tank sat empty in my garages/shed for 25+ years. little to no rust. Give it a hug before you cover it up. it'll be fine
 
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I know you said "indefinite", but do you have any clues about the duration? One year? Two years? Ten years? More?

Like many others here, I use Stabil for winter storage (and summer storage for the snowblower). I use the regular red stuff but will at least double the dose. If it says "one ounce per gallon", I will likely add 8-12 ounces to a tank that is about half full (might have about 3 gallons in it), then ride the 1/2 mile to the gas station, where I will fill the tank. On the way there, it will be about 4 times the required mix, but it does not seem to be bothered by that. After filling the tank, it will be at the double-dose I am looking for. I will then ride "around the block". The size of the "block" depends on the weather. If it's cold, it might only be a mile or so. If it's nice, the "block" could easily be 30-50 miles. When I get home, I will change the oil (keeps fresh oil on the bearings), then park the bike for the winter.

In your case, I would also drain the carbs, as others have suggested, and possibly blow some air through them to dry them out, too.

.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I just bought a BMW R1100RT, so the GS will not be ridden at least for another year, "Indefinitely", depending on how much I like the BMW. I'm pretty familiar with the winter storage routine. Mainly, I was wondering if there was some fluid besides Stabil that could be run through the carbs to keep the tiny passages open. I will drain the carbs and blow air into the fuel line. I am concerned that the air will not clear all of the passages in all four carbs just by shooting through the main fuel line, though. My goal here is to not have to dismantle too much, as I am getting a little lazy in my old age.
 
chuck hahn said:
Drain them and blow some air down the fuel line for 3 or 4 minutes. The air will push that last little bit out and also blow it out of the holes in the jets. My Cooley was laid away for 15 1/2 months. Threw a battery in and a gallon of gas and rode way like I had ridden it yesterday.
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yes, there's a suprising amount of gas left behind if you only drain the bowl. Not sure if this will do it, but I do know taking the carbs off and shaking them gets it out.
 
the air will blow the residual gas out. And i said do it for 3 minutes or so because it will also DRY the passages out once the gas has blown through.
 
In my youth I spent the autumn at a marina pulling boats out for the winter and cleaning the hulls. The mechanics would start the engine, shut off the fuel supply and use fogging oil (already mentioned) in the carbs until the gas ran out, then they'd open the float bowl drain screw to drain the float bowl. In the spring you drop it in the water, turn on the gas and go! Gas is formulated different these days so I'd be inclined to drain it and put it in the car, no sense in wasting it.
 
chuck hahn said:
the air will blow the residual gas out. And i said do it for 3 minutes or so because it will also DRY the passages out once the gas has blown through.
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hmm! I will have to try this myself! It sounds so easy to just blow through the fuel line..... but any more tips? Will I maybe need to block the "bowl vent" ?
and then maybe experiment gently with pressure! - I don't want to be bending the float tabs ! and it seems that bikes with just two carbs are going to want less pressure than 4 carb bikes....but I guess I'll try it on a spare set and see!
 
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