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Black Motors vs. Natural Aluminum

  • Thread starter Thread starter JMHJ
  • Start date Start date
The aluminum color on my GS engine is just that, aluminum, no paint, the only "paint" is the clear coat in various spots such as the clutch and stator covers.


Hey Dan,

How did you strip the factory silver paint off your GS engine?:-k
 
We're back to the O level experiments with eggs painted black (and I didn't bother filming the egg powered boat I made with my daughter a fortnight or so ago - the result was about as exciting as watching paint dry).

Black engines (and other parts for that matter) will shed heat better than any other colour, including polished or unpolished alloy. Will it make any difference on our bikes worth considering? No. With the temperatures (and temperature gradients) and materials used it's worth diddly squat.
exactly. it wont make diddly squat difference that you or i will notice. its just a matter of preference in looks, and how well you can spray or polish :D
 
exactly. it wont make diddly squat difference that you or i will notice. its just a matter of preference in looks, and how well you can spray or polish :D
By the way bull hockey in other words is bullsh!t.
;)
 
yeah i gathered that now mate. what the hell.....black motor,polished motor, its what you choose and we aint gonna notice any difference ;)

Except that black motors are way COOLER. And faster...:-\\\:p
 
You are all forgetting one thing, a mud covered engine runs hotter, and thus makes more power.

Mud hides all colors, and even the absence of color.

Mud makes even pink bikes look good.
 
For those of us that want black engines, would Renobruce share how it's done? Those parts look fantastic.
 
Cheapest color to anodize?

There seems to be as much conjecture in the heat sink world as there is in the GS motor world as far as color is concerned............

"Radiative heat transfer (heat transfer by electromagnetic radiation) is proportional to
e*(T1^4 - T2^4)
where T1 is the absolute temperature of the material, T2 is the absolute temperature of the surroundings, and e is the emissivity coefficient.

A black material has a high emissivity coefficient, while a silvery material has a low emissivity coefficient.

However, the emissivity coefficient cuts both ways, so to speak. A black material in thermodynamic equilibrium with its environment absorbs more radiation, true. But it also emits more radiation (this is necessary for equilibrium to hold). Likewise, a silvery material absorbs less radiation, and also emits less radiation.

Conductive heat transfer ensures that the black material on the surface of the heat sink remains hot. The surroundings are at a lower temperature. Therefore T1 and T2 are set, and the heat transferred from the heat sink to the surroundings is simply proportional to e, the emissivity coefficient."
 
There seems to be as much conjecture in the heat sink world as there is in the GS motor world as far as color is concerned............

"Radiative heat transfer (heat transfer by electromagnetic radiation) is proportional to
e*(T1^4 - T2^4)
where T1 is the absolute temperature of the material, T2 is the absolute temperature of the surroundings, and e is the emissivity coefficient.

A black material has a high emissivity coefficient, while a silvery material has a low emissivity coefficient.

However, the emissivity coefficient cuts both ways, so to speak. A black material in thermodynamic equilibrium with its environment absorbs more radiation, true. But it also emits more radiation (this is necessary for equilibrium to hold). Likewise, a silvery material absorbs less radiation, and also emits less radiation.

Conductive heat transfer ensures that the black material on the surface of the heat sink remains hot. The surroundings are at a lower temperature. Therefore T1 and T2 are set, and the heat transferred from the heat sink to the surroundings is simply proportional to e, the emissivity coefficient."


My brain just farted. ;)
 
For those of us that want black engines, would Renobruce share how it's done? Those parts look fantastic.

Thanks! :) The key is in the prep. The parts have to be 100% clean. I scrubbed all my parts (some for days) with Simple Green, then used MEK to remove any residual oils. I then masked, etch-primed, painted, and baked. I used Duplicolor Engine Enamel, but if I were to do it again, I'd use VHT engine/caliper paint. It holds up better and seems to resist chemicals better. I've been using that on the carbs I paint and I'm very happy with the results. There are a multitude of other paints you can use, too. Do a search and you'll see what others have done.
 
I know I look hotter on a bike with a black motor and thats all that matters.
 
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