Brake Line Question

[RustyTank]

Hello

I'm planning on purchasing some stainless steel braided brake lines. I hear Hel brake lines are really good, I also hear Apex brand brake lines through Rennsport Auto Parts in Canada are also really good.
I own a 79 GS850G and I'm installing a set of rotor disks, calipers and a master cylinder from a 82 GS1100G. While browsing Hel brakes lines website I noticed that they have brake lines available for lots of GS models but not the 1100. The biggest GS they have on their list is the GS1000. Do I need to find brake lines specifically for the 82 GS1100G or can they be for other 1100 models like the ED or the GK? And do they need to be year specific? I'm concerned about all the fittings being the right size. Don't know if they were different model to model or from year to year.

Side note, the idea of brake lines changing THAT much from year to year doesn't seem very cost effective to me but, what do I know?
Answer: Not much

 

[Steve]

The individual parts (m/c, calipers, etc.) did not change from year to year or even bike to bike. What might have changed is distance and routing, so order lines for your 850.

As an example, if you were transferring the 1100G brake parts to an L model, the taller handlebars on the L would require hoses longer than what would be correct for the 1100G.

.

 

[Gorminrider]

You might find that the part numbers for other bikes match at a parts site. I use "CMSNLparts" and if you click on the part you want, they mention a list of other bikes that use the same...
There are similar sites other members use.

And/Or, simply send all the info you have to Apex or Hel. Consult their websites as to contact but likely you should INCLUDE length measurement, and angles of the ends...
They would probably like to list any bike they don't already have if they have the tested info.

If you have changed the handlebars and find the brakelines you have are a bit too short, now's the time to make em longer. Over-long brakelines are less trouble but the new type are not as flexible as the rubber ones per curve radius in my limited experience.... they will have to bow out in their natural curves if they are too long...and it can be unattractive. Consider practising with a piece of steel cable of the same diameter and you will get my drift....

 

[Griffin]

Other than making your own brake lines (Nessism has an excellent tutorial on this, search for it), the best way I've found to get new brake lines is to take my existing ones to a local shop and have them made there. This is the safest way if you've changed the handlebars and need a shorter (or longer) line from the master cylinder to the front splitter.

In a metro area as large as where you live, I bet there are multiple speed shops that can make them at a reasonable rate. I have used these guys local to me, they could probably replicate your lines if you sent them in.

https://www.technafitstore.com/Custom-Lines-s/1866.htm

 

[RustyTank]

The individual parts (m/c, calipers, etc.) did not change from year to year or even bike to bike. What might have changed is distance and routing, so order lines for your 850.

As an example, if you were transferring the 1100G brake parts to an L model, the taller handlebars on the L would require hoses longer than what would be correct for the 1100G.

.

Thanks Steve. I thought that was the case. But just to make sure I understand you, if, for example, I were to order the GS850 brake lines from Hel with the correct length, the banjo fittings will fit just fine on GS1100 m/c, calpers, etc?

 

[RustyTank]

You might find that the part numbers for other bikes match at a parts site. I use "CMSNLparts" and if you click on the part you want, they mention a list of other bikes that use the same...
There are similar sites other members use.

And/Or, simply send all the info you have to Apex or Hel. Consult their websites as to contact but likely you should INCLUDE length measurement, and angles of the ends...
They would probably like to list any bike they don't already have if they have the tested info.

If you have changed the handlebars and find the brakelines you have are a bit too short, now's the time to make em longer. Over-long brakelines are less trouble but the new type are not as flexible as the rubber ones per curve radius in my limited experience.... they will have to bow out in their natural curves if they are too long...and it can be unattractive. Consider practising with a piece of steel cable of the same diameter and you will get my drift....

Thanks Gorminrider. I'd forgotten about CMSNL Parts. And yes, I've changed the bars so a custom length will be what I'm lookin for. The angles of the brake line ends is an interesting topic though...and one I don't know anything about. I guess I just don't know exactly how to go about determining what angles to decide on. How does one determine that? Maybe the answer is in your post, "consider practising with a piece of steel cable of the same diameter"

 

[RustyTank]

Other than making your own brake lines (Nessism has an excellent tutorial on this, search for it), the best way I've found to get new brake lines is to take my existing ones to a local shop and have them made there. This is the safest way if you've changed the handlebars and need a shorter (or longer) line from the master cylinder to the front splitter.

In a metro area as large as where you live, I bet there are multiple speed shops that can make them at a reasonable rate. I have used these guys local to me, they could probably replicate your lines if you sent them in.

https://www.technafitstore.com/Custom-Lines-s/1866.htm

Good thinkin Griffin. I'll check online for local outfits. That may be the right way to go. Thanks man.

 

[Nessism]

It's simple and cheap to make your own lines. Best of all is you can customize them for any routing and handlebars you want.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...arl-s-Brake-Line-Thread&p=2549308#post2549308

 

[Gorminrider]

I guess I just don't know exactly how to go about determining what angles to decide on. How does one determine that? Maybe the answer is in your post, "consider practising with a piece of steel cable of the same diameter"

I never thought of that! and it might just give a good clue. ...but I think your old ones will be a good guide ...if not, it seems to me that there's an angle at the wheel caliper and at the Master Cylinder at the handlebar. At the Union, they can be rotated a little out of each other's way but you can see for yourself that having all of them with an angle is awkward. Probably none require an angle at the union. I can't remember my reardisk very well ....
...Maybe it's a fine-point, but on "crimped" lines it' seems also important to get the orientation of the ends correct so they land "naturally"flat on their surfaces without wanting a twist. ..sure, a twist wont matter in a long length (like the 1 long line of a single disk), but with twin disks the line from Master to Union is not as long...so if you observe how the ends are oriented to each other( where they are bolted to Master and the Union), you will not be twisting them.

Get me? I might merely be pointing out the advantage of the "swivelling" type of end...on one end anyways. These can go together with wrenches versus the hard crimp. See Nessisms excellent pix in link above as a possible study. There are other types too.

 

[salty_monk]

If you have near stock handlebars then just order an 850 line set (unless you are changing to two line).

If changing to two line (one over the fender) then I think you want a 15 degree for the MC to a straight with a 45 twist down to right calipers.

A 15 degree to a 15 degree to loop over the fender no twist.

Check it out yourself. If you're going stock 3 line then I believe the top line needs a 90 degree twist as do the two bottom ones. You'll need to get the twist the right way...