Brake system check

[hannibal]

Good point about the rod. Appearance wasn't my concern but I am worried about the washer since it's locked on the rod. The washer is pretty rusty but I won't know if it's pitted til I get the rust off.

 

[chuck hahn]

Its press fitted to the rod....it will never come off!!!!

 

[hannibal]

Yep so I hope the washer is in good shape. or I have to get a new rod (thanks 850GT).

I guess the washer only serves as a mounting surface for the circlip. The cup inside holds the fluid. With a fresh circlip and new rubber boot, I should be OK.

 

[chuck hahn]

It acts as a centering guide for the rod Guides it straight up and down when you step on the pedal. Yup on the clip and dust boot.

 

[hannibal]

It's your neck. Fit a piece of crap cheap m/c if you like.

I've been looking for a MC with 14mm bore or smaller and 10mm mirror mount that fits 7/8" bars. Any suggestions on new MC's below $100?

Outside of Ebay, I've found a 13mm non adjustable MC for $80 and a 14mm Kawasaki replica (that needs a hydraulic switch) for $50.

 

[Grimly]

I've been looking for a MC with 14mm bore or smaller and 10mm mirror mount that fits 7/8" bars. Any suggestions on new MC's below $100?

Outside of Ebay, I've found a 13mm non adjustable MC for $80 and a 14mm Kawasaki replica (that needs a hydraulic switch) for $50.

What I do is get decent OEM m/c of the right size that were fitted to XJ900, Deauville (both 16mm / 5/8th, or for 14mm a Ninja EX500. Best to find a low-mileage example, but for peace of mind rebuild it with an OEM kit. Sure, it will cost more than an crappy Chinese EBay part but they're better and tougher and had decent quality control.
The Deauville m/cs for example, are Brembo, the others Nissin - and they don't make crap bits.

 

[hannibal]

Thanks for the info Grimly. I do like the idea of finding and rebuilding an OEM MC. At least you know it's a quality part and will be practically brand new after a rebuild. The quality of the Ebay parts are unknown, and I see the same MC's priced anywhere from $15 to $75. It's hard to know their true value. Am I getting a great deal on a $75 MC or am I overpaying for a $15 MC? Who knows!

I am struggling to get the piston out of the front caliper. Soaking it in vinegar loosened it enough to spin the piston in the bore. But it takes a pliers and all my strength and weight just to get it to turn. At this rate, it'll be 6 months before I can twist it out. I tried compressed air, then Berrymans, then pumping it out with the MC, then the vinegar. No luck. I guess heat is the last resort, and I don't own a torch. I'm considering putting the whole caliper in the oven and see if that helps. Don't want to burn off the paint, cause that would be pretty stinky and smokey I'm guessing. I pulled off the metal ring around the bore so the only thing "holding" the piston in is the rubber O ring. I also saw a Youtube vid of a guy using a grease gun to push the caliper out. Has anyone tried this?

On the rear caliper, I managed to remove both pistons. It was quite tough at the time, but in hindsight, it was super easy compared to the front. But on the rear, I cannot get the metal rings off the caliper. I'm prepared to destroy the rings to get them off but I don't want to hurt the caliper body. I don't mind paying $5 each for new rings if I could just get them off.

Any advice on getting the front piston out or the rear rings off?

 

[eil]

The front caliper piston should come out with compressed air, unless it's really lodged in there sideways due to over-application of brute force. I used a $10 bicycle pump to get mine out and it was full of crusted up brake fluid after having sat for well over a decade. A grease gun will work too but it's messier.

What metal rings are you talking about? Do you have a picture?

 

[hannibal]

I incorrectly thought that the rears had a ring like the front. It does not.