Break-in oil

[Audioslave784]

I am finally putting my engine back together after new rings and a cylinder hone. I was about to put in fresh oil and, and I'm just wondering if there any certain oil or viscosity I should use? Is break-in oil the way to go, or could I stick with the regular 10w40 Castrol?

 

[67fire]

I usually use 3 quarts of HD W30 and one quart of 10W40.
You DID use assembly lube on the friction parts, right?
(Cam bearings, cam lobes, cam gears, piston skirts and rings.)

Eric

 

[Steve]

Can't imagine why one would not go with all four quarts of 10w-40, especially for "break-in". :-k

The 10w part says that it flows like a 10w at colder temps (like when you start the bike) and will flow through the small passages in the bearings easier than thicker oil (30w). Personally, I would go with the 10w-40. Castrol is fine.

Also personal preference, but I would run that oil for just a few miles to flush all the crud out of the engine, change the oil and filter, run it for about 100 miles, then change the oil and filter again. After that, you can resume normal intervals.

.

 

[67fire]

Higher zinc content for cam/bearing break-in.

Eric

 

[rapidray]

I am with Eric on using a higher zinc content oil for break in. I recommend it for every day use & ESPECIALLY break in! If you can get it, get Penn Grade 30 or 40 wt. It is what used to be the old Kendall "green" oil & that stuff is by FAR the best dino oil you can get! Ray.

 

[Steve]

Didn't realize that the zinc content would be different.

Is that because of the "HD" or the straight-weight? :-k

.

 

[Nessism]

Where are you guys getting this stuff that straight weight has higher zinc? Go to Bob is the Oil guy and look up some oil analysis threads, I've never seen higher zinc on straight weight like you guys claim.

Regarding using straight 30W, i wouldn't do it since it's too thin. Use 10W-40 motorcycle oil or 15W-40 diesel oil since that DOES have higher zinc than the common auto oils.

 

[67fire]

Both, actually. 15W40 Diesel oil is also a good alternative for higher PPM of Zinc.
I prefer a thicker oil film when breaking in. More cushioning between parts.
But, I'll let Ray explain...

Eric

 

[Guest]

How about saw dust and crisco?

 

[Steve]

I prefer a thicker oil film when breaking in. More cushioning between parts.

I have been operating on the principle that, although the thicker oil might have better cushioning, it will only have it if it can get into that space in the first place.

I could be wrong, it's happened before.

And it'll probably happen again.

.

 

[hampshirehog]

If you're in the UK use GTX. If you're not, don't. We've got more zinc in ours.

 

[rapidray]

Where are you guys getting this stuff that straight weight has higher zinc? Go to Bob is the Oil guy and look up some oil analysis threads, I've never seen higher zinc on straight weight like you guys claim.

Regarding using straight 30W, i wouldn't do it since it's too thin. Use 10W-40 motorcycle oil or 15W-40 diesel oil since that DOES have higher zinc than the common auto oils.

Ed, the PENN GRADE is a racing oil that HAS MORE ZINC! Try some research on what I post BEFORE wanting to argue everything. Ray.

 

[Calvin Blackmore]

Ed, the PENN GRADE is a racing oil that HAS MORE ZINC! Try some research on what I post BEFORE wanting to argue everything. Ray.

Asking a legitimate question is hardly an arguement.

 

[Audioslave784]

Thanks for the responses guys. I'll try and find a high zinc oil locally for the break-in, and I'll change to the Castrol after a few (maybe 15 or 20?) miles.

I usually use 3 quarts of HD W30 and one quart of 10W40.
You DID use assembly lube on the friction parts, right?
(Cam bearings, cam lobes, cam gears, piston skirts and rings.)

Eric

I put some oil on the piston skirts and sleeves and plan to fill the valve recesses with oil until the cam lobes are covered. Is assembly lube necessary as well? I was under the impression that assembly lube wasn't entirely necessary and might interfere with the wet clutch (although I am a noob with rebuilds and could be completely mistaken here).

I've placed the block and head but haven't torqued anything down yet, so I could do the pistons without too much hassle.

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the responses guys. I'll try and find a high zinc oil locally for the break-in, and I'll change to the Castrol after a few (maybe 15 or 20?) miles.



I put some oil on the piston skirts and sleeves and plan to fill the valve recesses with oil until the cam lobes are covered. Is assembly lube necessary as well? I was under the impression that assembly lube wasn't entirely necessary and might interfere with the wet clutch (although I am a noob with rebuilds and could be completely mistaken here).

I've placed the block and head but haven't torqued anything down yet, so I could do the pistons without too much hassle.

You shouldn't oil the sleeves. It disrupts the breaking in of the rings.

 

[Nessism]

Just to clarify, straight weight oil does not have more zinc/phosphorus, but that Brad Penn oil does, regardless of the viscosity.

Regarding using straight 30 weight, it is not thicker than 10W-40, it’s thinner, except when it’s cold.

Regarding using straight 40 weight, I don’t see the point. I’d much rather use a 10W-40 during break in since it’s thinner when cold and will get up the cams easier.

Regarding switching to GTX after 10-20 miles, I don’t see the point of this either, unless you live in England where this oil has more zinc than here in the states. GTX in the US has about 1/3 less zinc and phosphorus than diesel oil, so you are downgrading by using it.

 

[Audioslave784]

Crap. So I'm pretty much going to have to take everything apart now? Clean the sleeves and lube the pistons?

You shouldn't oil the sleeves. It disrupts the breaking in of the rings.

 

[paco13]

I wouldn't pull it apart, it'll be fine. If you oil the pistons its gonna transfer to sleeve as well obviously. I always coat the bore with oil when sliding pistons in and haven't had any probs with break in.

 

[Audioslave784]

Just to clarify, straight weight oil does not have more zinc/phosphorus, but that Brad Penn oil does, regardless of the viscosity.

Regarding using straight 30 weight, it is not thicker than 10W-40, it?s thinner, except when it?s cold.

Regarding using straight 40 weight, I don?t see the point. I?d much rather use a 10W-40 during break in since it?s thinner when cold and will get up the cams easier.

Regarding switching to GTX after 10-20 miles, I don?t see the point of this either, unless you live in England where this oil has more zinc than here in the states. GTX in the US has about 1/3 less zinc and phosphorus than diesel oil, so you are downgrading by using it.

I was thinking of switching to a new oil only to flush out crud from the break-in process. Although after reading some more on this, 100 or so miles is probably more appropriate.

You shouldn't oil the sleeves. It disrupts the breaking in of the rings.

My Haynes manual states to "lubricate thoroughly the cylinder bores" before dropping them over the pistons. What's the deal here? Is this (another) one of those hotly contested topics?

 

[Nessism]

I was thinking of switching to a new oil only to flush out crud from the break-in process. Although after reading some more on this, 100 or so miles is probably more appropriate.



My Haynes manual states to "lubricate thoroughly the cylinder bores" before dropping them over the pistons. What's the deal here? Is this (another) one of those hotly contested topics?

I wouldn't worry about oil on the pistons and sleeves, but I wouldn't use assembly lube. As for the oil, go ahead and change it after a couple hundred miles but don't use GTX (unless you are in the UK that is), use diesel oil and stay with diesel oil.