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Building a vintage track bike

  • Thread starter Thread starter one_civic
  • Start date Start date
I know for sure the older Slabby and Slingshot GSXR 750-1100 rear sprockets are 5 bolt, at least that's what they are here in Canada,

Well, look at that. I went back to JT's catalog and the 86-88 GSXR1100's are indeed a 5 bolt pattern and then Suzuki went back to the old 6 bolt pattern for the 89+ 1100 models. I guess I never looked at the early GSXR's close enough once I found that the 1127cc oil cooled motors and the 1074cc liquid cooled motors matched my 1100E. Doh.

On the chain I would probably go with the 530 just because it is so common and sprockets are easily available for it.


Mark
 
So I laser lined my front drive sprocket to my rear sprocket carrier and I need to machine 1/2" or 12.7mm off the rear carrier and shim out my front sprocket 1/8" or 3mm to have proper chain alignment. The only thing that kind of worries me is that there will not be much material left on the rear sprocket carrier, so.... I'm thinking of only machining off 3/8" or 9.5mm and shimming the front to 1/4" or 6mm.

My question is, has anyone used a front drive 530 15t sprocket shimmed outward 6mm? Was there enough of the sprocket on the output shaft spline? Pics for clarity, lol

IMG_1559_zpsu7k6s0h9.jpg~original



IMG_1558_zpswz4mnuhs.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
Keep in mind the front sprocket is available with a dish to it allowing you to go out 6 or 8mm with no fuss.
The only thing about shimming out is making sure you maintain spline a thread engagement. Ducati uses the same spline and many models have a very wide hub. This wide hub could be offset machined as needed but then why bother when the offset sprocket is available.
 
Yeah, that seems like a better option than machining the rear sprocket carrier, now what brand does everyone use for a 530 15t 5/8 offset front sprocket for their 8 valve 750's?
 
Subscribed.......... If you need a regular length 1100 swingarm I'm got a few of them, including one that has all the tabs taken off in prep for the track.

I wouldn't mind one if you're still willing to let one go!
 
one_civic, if you decide you want a standard length GS1100E swingarm, I have a few here for now that I would be willing to trade you even up, pending shipping costs across the Canada USA border. The shortened arm would go great on my GS425 racer build.
I love the GS1100E arm on my 750, the extra length gave it substantial more rigidity and high speed stability, and only made cornering noticeably different on those ultra tight 10-15mph hairpin turns (I also added 13.375" long shocks at the same time as swingarm install, big improvement in turn in with that).
Going longer will pull your shocks back further, adding more rake and trail as the rear end will get dropped down and alter the front end geometry, which will make it handle like a pig if you don't increase the rear shock length to get good rake and trail back.

The other big benefit of a longer swingarm is substantially improved corner exit geometry under acceleration. Getting the proper swingarm angle of 7 to 11 degrees is also pretty critical here. With a shorter swingarm, your swingarm angle changes more drastically as compared to the same amount of suspension travel with a longer swingarm. This gives your rear end the tendency for the swingarm geometry to go from steeper where it is resisting squatting (anti-squat) to the angle more rapidly/drastically changing under acceleration and actually giving you "pro-squat" where your rear end squats more easily, raking out your front end geometry under the power of acceleration out of a turn, & hence causing you to go wide exiting the turn and have to back off the throttle a bit. This is a well known tendency when running a shorter swingarm and a properly set up suspension.

Everything can be a compromise on these older race bikes in these types of scenarios.shorter swingarm = faster corner apexing, longer swingarm = faster corner exit. Modern bikes have both since the frame and engine are designed to have a very long swingarm yet a fairly short wheelbase.
Lots to think about...

If you ever look at modern swingarm swaps, you will notice that they are all substantially longer for this reason. The pivots are however moved more forward in the frames, & the gearboxes are made tighter to the engine to afford this even more.
 
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Way back when these bikes were new I raced my '79 GS550. It was not stock.

GS-LR.JPG

GS-RR.JPG

These pics were taken a decade ago.

About darn time we see a pic of that GS550 of yours, Colt!
Is that a Yoshimura exhaust?
Still have those Fox Shocks on it? If you ever are considering swapping different shocks, please notify me first as I'd give you top dollar for a set of Fox piggybacks. I'm looking for a 3rd set currently.
 
I hate it when that has to happen....

Too bad it's in Canada or else I'd be trying to get a friend to buy it. "Importing" complete bikes is a pain...
 
Thanks Steve, I have someone interested in some of the parts, i.e.engine, tank, body parts, Chuck if I decide to part it, I may take you up on that offer for the swing arm,

Unfortunately my hands are tied and I won't be able to afford track days, camping, travelling time next year with my new born. I really want this bike to go to someone who appreciate's these old machines. It runs great, just won't have the time next year for the track :(

I may decide to part it and if I do, I'll let the forum have first dibs.
 
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Checked Expensive car

Checked Expensive car

One of my friend's Albert owner of (Wordsiseek.com) is fond of racing. I will personally invite him to be a part of this forum to share his experiences about racing. Have you tried Koenigsegg CCX for racing? It has 245+ mph speed according to WIS post on world most expensive car.
 
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I hate it when that has to happen....

Too bad it's in Canada or else I'd be trying to get a friend to buy it. "Importing" complete bikes is a pain...
If it has the stuff you want and need, why not bring it over in pieces? Like a customs guy is gonna check a bunch of greasy parts. Get a extremly ratty 550 in the US for cheap with a straight frame and title and there ya go.
 
Is it a 5 or 6 cush drive type? If 5 then switching to the GS550 sprocket drive might help. Some of the Suzuki 6 are also slimmer too. :)

I have run with a 6mm spacer behind a "conversion" sprocket (which has about 2mm lump that is meant to go outside but I ran it inside as it's splined).

The only problem at that point was no room on the splines for a lock washer so I used red loctite. Probably means heat will be needed to remove the sprocket to change so no good if you want to do regular changes. Maybe you could drill and lockwire instead somehow but I imagine the splined shaft is pretty hard...

Main reason for doing this was I was 520 (offset sprockets are only commonly available in 530 & I didn't have room for a 530 without altering the frame) and cost (Offset sprockets are expensive).
 
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So I laser lined my front drive sprocket to my rear sprocket carrier and I need to machine 1/2" or 12.7mm off the rear carrier and shim out my front sprocket 1/8" or 3mm to have proper chain alignment. The only thing that kind of worries me is that there will not be much material left on the rear sprocket carrier, so.... I'm thinking of only machining off 3/8" or 9.5mm and shimming the front to 1/4" or 6mm. My question is, has anyone used a front drive 530 15t sprocket shimmed outward 6mm? Was there enough of the sprocket on the output shaft spline? Pics for clarity, lol
IMG_1559_zpsu7k6s0h9.jpg~original
IMG_1558_zpswz4mnuhs.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
Use a GS500 rear sprocket carrier. No machining required (except for the axle spacers, of course) or offset front sprocket. I am currently building a GS1000 project, also with 1st generation GSX-R wheels. Currently the rear wheel is wearing a 140/70 tire, but, by the looks of things you could probably run a 150-section tire on the back and still clear the chain.
 
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