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Bypassing indicator auto-cancel?

  • Thread starter Thread starter tfb
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T

tfb

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G'day all,

I've got a '79 GS1000S that is just about ready for licensing.

The last remaining problem is that the auto-cancel box is responsible for the right-hand indicators not working. In fact, it will only work once the motorcycle has been running/ warmed up for 15 minutes or so. To confirm this, I pointed a heat gun at the auto-cancelling box, and once it was warm, left and right sets of indicators worked... but when it cooled down, the right-hand set wasn't working.

As the item doesn't look servicable (and I don't want to entrust my indicators to an ageing piece of electronica), I want to bypass it.

The only question is, How?

**Please note that this is not a 1980 model, which has an auto-cancelling unit that you can simply unplug, and the indicators will still work.** If only it was so easy!

So, for those of you with access to a GS1000SN wiring diagram, can you tell me which coloured wires should be connected to which, ie. between the two connector blocks that are left when you have unplugged the auto-cancelling box?

I have tried working it out for myself from the wiring diagram, but frankly it's doing my head in! And as I don't want to burn switches or start a fuse-blowing session, I thought I'd at least ask you guys.

Thanks,
Mike.
 
the tscu working when warmed up is very interesting to me. the ones i've had that were going bad would only work when very cold, like during rides in winter. i always thought it was because semi conductors (transistors) are very susceptible to heat. now that's assuming there are transistors in the tscu.

anyway, the fact that yours works when warm has me rethinking the whole deal. thought i had it figured out. thanks a lot.:confused:
 
Right, I've pulled the metal cap off the TSCU (still yet to figure out what that mighty acronym stands for!) but checking out the link you provide there Mr. Rustybronco, I see we are indeed talking about the same thing. Which is a good start. ;)

Then I aimed my heat gun at those two relays (is that what they are? I assume so) with the fine copper coils, and sure enough the right-hand indicators started working after the relays got a 30-second blast of warm air. So it's not the transistors, but those spools with the fine copper wire under the metal cap on the TSCU which are the problem So you may not have to re-configure your universe after all, Eli69!

Then I let them cool down, until the right-hand indicators didn't work any more. Then, by feeling and listening to them click (or not click as the case may be), determined which one wasn't coming to the party. Took the soldering iron to the rear of the circuit board (had to cut back the black plastic shield to do that) and lifted away the offending relay.

Then, after cleaning back the solder on the pins, noted that there is a cap on the rear of the relay which slides off, and lets you access the gizzards. Had a bit of a gentle poke and prod around in there, but alas, can't get it coming to the party unless I give it a blast with the heat gun. Clearly something is breaking down with age/vibration/moisture/whatever.

Anyway, that's what the problem is, at least in my case. Now then, I'm actually having a little trouble deciphering that post which you linked to Mr. Rustybronco. NOT because the post is unclear, but because I'm a bit of an electrical barbarian and anything I do know is just through 'accepting' stuff rather than actually understanding it, if that makes sense...

... so can you or any of our good GS brethren help me make sense of it? I gather that one must link a couple of relays to the four wires from that 4-wire block connector (ie. the green, green/black, black, and black/blue wires). And when Leo there says "relays" (his first post in the thread) or "flashers" (his last post in the thread), does he mean simply a pair of indicator relays... or what sort of relays? Any old thing with 2 pins? :confused:

And if I do end up putting in a couple of indicator-type relays in there, then does that mean I am effectively creating a system with a total of three indicator relays (inc. the one on the lekky side-plate under the LHS sidecover)? Not that I object to that, just wanting to clear it all up in my confused bonce, that's all.

Thanks for your patience fellas...
 
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I gather that one must link a couple of relays to the four wires from that 4-wire block connector (ie. the green, green/black, black, and black/blue wires). And when Leo there says "relays" (his first post in the thread) or "flashers" (his last post in the thread), does he mean simply a pair of indicator relays... or what sort of relays? Any old thing with 2 pins? :confused:

Thanks for your patience fellas...
Please point me to the thread you are referring to.
 
The relay's he is referring to are in fact two pin turn signal relays.

Basically what's being done is, removing the centering spring inside the left hand control so it can't automatically return to center - creating a manually operated left control and adding two turn signal flashers in circuit - one for each side.
 
OK, I think I can follow that. :D So to confirm: we are talking about a couple of bog-standard 2-pin turn-signal relays, yes?
 
Right, I've pulled the metal cap off the TSCU (still yet to figure out what that mighty acronym stands for!)...
Turn Signal Control Unit.
icon_shrug.gif


.
 
I told Mike specific term to search for as that is the easiest way to find the information that he requested. But, as you had fathomed a guess, yes, you are correct, 'it' stands for Turn Signal Control Unit.
 
No problems -- I'll let you know how I get on with wiring the relays in.

Ah, TSCU... it seems so obvious now. :o As all acronyms do in hindsight. MTFFATH (= many thanks fellas for all the help)
 
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Yep, the indicators all work now... simply an excellent outcome! :cool:

As outlined in the other thread, I removed the centering spring from the turn signal selector on the LHS switchgear, so that the indicators can keep going when you remove your thumb from the signal selector switch.

I also soldered an extra washer to the 'loop' on the end of the signal selector lever, to stop it slopping around as much. Then on the brass plate which fits over the signal selector (ie. inside the switch gear), I used a small punch with a rounded end to create a 'pit', so that the signal selector lever centres decisively when you turn the indicators off. Schweeeeeet!

Cheers again,
Mike.
 
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