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Skyboy8950
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A partsnmore.com GS850 gasket kit is $65 + $5 shipping. Comes with the valve stem seals and everything else you could want. Call it a cheap lesson. I’d pull the engine back down and get the cylinder honed this time.
Getting back to the mototune break-in procedure, what I’d like to know is how can the cross-hatch get destroyed without correspondingly wearing the rings? And if this“critical break-in period” stuff is true, how come there is not more talk about it in the motor vehicle industry? Sounds like internet fueled urban legend.
They are the part that actually does the cutting.
Once they are smoothed over not much else happens.
The part you can see lasts thousands of miles, sometimes hundreds of thousands.
This is good, it helps hold oil on the cylinder walls.
But the ring cutting ability is gone right away.
There is a lot of BS about breaking in engines, always has been, always will be.
Most folks have no clue what is actually going on inside.
What Motoman says has always worked for me, guys who build engines generally agree.
Even Ray.
Skyboy8950
Guest
When I look in the fiche, what is the part number for the valve seals? There are guides and that is it. About 11 bucks each.
By the way, my engine is from an '81.
Sure you can, it might not leak for a while.
Skyboy8950
Guest
I have heard of people using them again, have not heard of a re used one staying leak free for years.
For the amount of effort involved, and again to do it right if/when it fails, I would not bother.
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If you're happy with how it runs than run it.
The smoke is probably from the valve stem oil seals. If it was the rings it would smoke under heavy load. Hit the throttle hard to redline in neutral. If it doesn't cough smoke than your oil rings are ok. You may or may not have gotten a great seal on your compression rings. Checking your compression will tell this tale.
Skyboy8950
Guest
The valve stem seals have been hard as a rock on every thirty year old engine I have taken apart. Whether or not they smoke. Some do, some don't.
And,
If it runs well enough for your purposes, leave it alone.
Maybe I'm not explaining myself properly...yes, the rough edges on the cross-hatch wear the rings like a file and when the file is dull, the rings should be fully bed in. What I don't understand is that even if you drag a file lightly over the metal surface it will cut...lightly. The file won't dull down as quickly and the rings won't wear in as fast but eventually you will get to the same level. The hone marks won't disappear on their own, they need to be worn away by the rings, and I don't see how the speed of the bedding process will will lead to a better seal.
I know the rings are.
If the guy who has built hundreds of winning engines says it is so, and if he's not making money off of me by lying, it is probably so.
I have only built a handful engines, and most of mine were more half assed repairs than true rebuilds.
But running them hard has always sealed the rings quickly and sealed them well, even on engines that were so far out of clearances they should not have run at all.
One Ford truck engine had pistons with about 1/8 inch between the pistons and cylinders, even it ended up with good compression.
(disclaimer, I do not know how long this particular engine lasted)
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Turtleface
Guest
As far as the head gasket, here's the skinny. The gasket is designed to be torqued once, and that's it. Once the layers of steel and rubber are compressed, they'll never fully decompress. There stands a fair chance of you getting away with reusing the old gasket, at least initially, but in all likelihood, it'll end up leaking in the long run. I'd second the "run it until it smokes too bad" opinion, and make sure you do your due diligence when it comes time to rebuild/replace.
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Chalk it up as one of lifes lessons.
TheCafeKid
Guest
+1... Ride it. Worst case scenario, it smokes a bit, and if it gets bad enough to make it worth tearing it down again, it will tell you by fouling a plug or two. Just make sure you carry some spare plugs around with you if it starts smoking bad...
