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Carb cleaner yes/no?

  • Thread starter Thread starter KiwiGS
  • Start date Start date
K

KiwiGS

Guest
Hey guys,
My cvs are all gummed up from sitting for a (long)while.
I would really rather not take them off if I can help it!
I seem to remember hearing or reading that you should NEVER use spray can carb cleaner on cvs is this right?
Cheers
 
Spray cleaner won't hurt anything but it won't help either. The problem with gummed up carbs is the jets in the various passages are plugged; you can not clean these with spraying cleaner down the throat.
 
The bike seems to run ok.
But the carbs seem hard to open and are slow to close.
 
Thanks for the reply.
But it's not the cable or the throttle tube.
If I take the cable off the carbs and use the lever assembly on the carbs it is still feels sticky and is slow to open and close.
Any more thoughts?
Cheers
 
KiwiGS said:
Thanks for the reply.
But it's not the cable or the throttle tube.
If I take the cable off the carbs and use the lever assembly on the carbs it is still feels sticky and is slow to open and close.
Any more thoughts?
Cheers
Click to expand...

Get soam seafoam and pour it directly down the fuel line and run the bike.I had a problem with erratic idle and didnt want to pull my carbs and clean them till this winter.I heard about this and tried it and my idle is GREAT and the bike runs a lot better! I poured down about a half a can and the bike ran on just seafoam alone.Keep the throttle up to about 2 to 3 grand while it is sucking down the seafoam. Put your tank back on and let the bike sit for a few hours till it cools completely down then go for a ride!I did this as a last resort but know I will be riding until snow hits the ground! It really does work.
 
If it isn't the cable, maybe the linkage on top of the carbs. The slides aren't operated by the throttle, but by vacuum. How about spraying WD-40 or PB Blaster on the linkage pivot points on the outside?
 
Hey Guys,
Thanks for the ideas.
I am starting to think external linkages and springs.
Might have to do some more investigations and scrubbing.
What is seafoam and what does it do? (I am guessing clean and lubricate) but I have never heard of it. Might have something similar here in NZ though.
Cheers
 
I agree with the foregoing. Seafoam in the tank and WD40 all over the linkage. A full can of Seafoam in a tank of gas and run it around for an hour or so should clean out a lot of crud. For a proper job you will need to pull the carbs and brake them open for a cleaning. Nicel little project for winter.

Throttle cable could also be a problem as lubing cables is often never done. If the cable is frayed or gummed up it can also hang up making for a tight throttle. If you can disconnect it and shoot it full of WD40 or cab le lube it might help.

Let us know what you do and how it works for you.

Good luck,
Spyug.

PS Seafoam is petroleum based additive for fuel systems and lubrication systems. Its a cleaner and conditioner. Very safe to use and very effective. You should check with your automotive parts retailer. There is likely something similar in your kneck of the woods. Can the guys from Kiwiland or Oz offer anymore info or product availability please.
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys
I will let you know if I find seafoam or an alternative
 
In Oz or NZ seafoam is NOT available.
Pull the carbs strip and clean them; use spray carb cleaner and stop listening to whoever told you not too.
Be sure to inspect and lube all pivot points.

Dink
 
Thanks Dink,
Saves a trip into town.
Let the stripping begin.
Cheers mate.
 
I don't separate the carbs (or dip them) any more unless I've got to replace o-rings in the fuel tubes or something. I just pull the tops and bottoms off, remove the jets and such, and squirt spray carb cleaner into ALL orifices hard. I use about one can of cleaner per carb. You can tell things aren't obstructed by observing the spray come out the other end of a given fuel passage. I usually end up only replacing the float valve seat o-rings. I've got 2 or 3 half-used Robert Barr kits around the garage. ;-)

Check the diaphragms, check the float levels, re-install with an in-line fuel filter, and Bob's your uncle.
 
Also, regarding carbs being hard to open and slow to close: my XS was the same way. I removed the throttle tube (grip) and the handlebar in that area was slightly out-of-round, causing friction. I sanded it down a bit, lubed it, and it was good to go. But I think the Yammy throttle tubes are a tighter fit than the Suzys.
 
Dink said:
In Oz or NZ seafoam is NOT available.
Pull the carbs strip and clean them; use spray carb cleaner and stop listening to whoever told you not too.
Be sure to inspect and lube all pivot points.

Dink
Click to expand...

Spray carb cleaner does not get to the jets, no matter what direction you spray it in. Seafoam additives will work if the jets are not completely gummed. If the cleaner can't get inside the jet, it won't do squat. I used two bottles of spray cleaner with no effect. I then used a bottle of B-12 Chemtool that disintegrated my gaskets and still did not get her running. I pulled the carbs and the jets were mostly gummed up.
Do yourself a favor, pull the carbs, remove the float bowls, unscrew the jets and place them in a cup of mineral sprits for about an hour. Clean them with a small wire brush and screw them back in. Don't adjust anything! if the bike was running before, those settings worked and if this is successful, will work again. Screw the jets back in just as they were. replace the float bowls, and run it for a few minutes. Even if perfectly clean and dried, it takes a few minutes for the gas to flow through the jets properly after using mineral spirits. I know nothing about carbs and I did this myself in 2 hours. Turned a non -running bike into a perfectly running bike. She sat in someones yard for 15 years with a tank of gas and now she runs like she's brand new.
Don't be scared of it, any amateur can remove and clean the jets by hand, and a can of mineral spirits (aka lacquer thinner) is a lot cheaper than carb dip, and just as effective.
 
Thanks mates!
I am going in!.....
When I get home from work.
Let you know what happens.
Cheers
 
Many kinds of carb cleaner will destroy any rubber and many plastic parts they contact. The extremely expen$ive diaphragms on CV carbs, for example. And o-rings. A few drops of carb cleaner will create a nasty soft blister on a $100+ CV carb diaphragm.

Of course, maybe we just have access to nastier chemicals here in the states.

But around these parts, spritzing spray carb cleaner around assembled carbs doesn't do the least bit of good and may do a lot of harm. You have to disassemble the carbs completely first so you're only using it on metal parts.
 
That is what I heard as well!
To be on the safe side I think I might strip them and clean them by hand
Thanks
 
I think you said your bike was running fine, only the throttle was binding. I don't think taking the carbs apart & cleaning the jets & passages inside will help the throttle movement. If the bike is running fine, the seafoam, or other gas additive, will keep it running as it should. Others may disagree, but I never take carbs apart to clean them, if they were running like they were ment to run.
 
honestly, I've never seen any of the suzuki cv's, but i recently worked a honda cx500 with some cv's, the throttle plates had actually froze to the bores. I had to soak them for a day to loosen them up. the throttle shafts were also very gummy to the bodies. This cause the throttle to be almost totally inoperable, even though the cable and throttle tube was fine. Id say, in any case, a full tear down is in order.
 
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