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Carb Cleaning

  • Thread starter Thread starter OklahomaPomade
  • Start date Start date
O

OklahomaPomade

Guest
I'm really mulling over the idea of doing a thorough strip down and clenaing of my carbs. Question is though...what comes next??

I can't imagine a person could just bolt 'em back on and expect them to work.

I ran across a thread regarding synchronizing...I would image that would be next, nes paux?
 
OklahomaPomade said:
I'm really mulling over the idea of doing a thorough strip down and clenaing of my carbs. Question is though...what comes next??

I can't imagine a person could just bolt 'em back on and expect them to work.

I ran across a thread regarding synchronizing...I would image that would be next, nes paux?
Click to expand...
Somthing wrong or are you just wanting to tear it down (-:

Once you take them off you should check them for synchronization 'cause they are probably out a little anyway.
 
The "bench synch" procedure is very simple. Take a twist wire from a loaf of bread (strip off the coating first). Adjust the idle screw on carb #3 until you can just slide the wire in/out of the gap between the throttle plate and carb wall on carb #3 with some resistance. Then using the throttle screw between 3 & 4, adjust throttle plate for carb #4 for the same feel. Do the same for carb #1, then carb #2. This should give you good enough balance to start the bike and do some fine tuning.

Adjust the idle screw for base idle (1000-1100rpm). Then adjust pilot screws for highest idle. Then readjust base idle. At this point you should do a vacuum synch. This is simply adjusting the throttle plates until you have balanced vacuum across all carbs. Then readjust base idle again.

Any questions, ask 'em!
 
jgordon said:
Somthing wrong or are you just wanting to tear it down (-:
Click to expand...

I found fuel coming out of the fent tube between the #3 and #4 carb. I'm assuming somethings is stuck upen.
 
GS850_Coug said:
The "bench synch" procedure is very simple. Take a twist wire from a loaf of bread (strip off the coating first). Adjust the idle screw on carb #3 until you can just slide the wire in/out of the gap between the throttle plate and carb wall on carb #3 with some resistance. Then using the throttle screw between 3 & 4, adjust throttle plate for carb #4 for the same feel. Do the same for carb #1, then carb #2. This should give you good enough balance to start the bike and do some fine tuning.

Adjust the idle screw for base idle (1000-1100rpm). Then adjust pilot screws for highest idle. Then readjust base idle. At this point you should do a vacuum synch. This is simply adjusting the throttle plates until you have balanced vacuum across all carbs. Then readjust base idle again.
Click to expand...

One more time in English...jus' joking. I guess I'll cross this bridge when I come to it.

I guess the answer to my original question is "yes"?
 
ONE of your original questions was "nes paux?"

Sorry, I am an American. I do not understand French. What the heck is "nes paux"?


.
 
You can try and avoid the vacuum sync job by not separating the carb bodies from the rack. They may be enough in sync to let you postpone that step for a while. You can get to all the jets and valves without separating them. The only thing you can't do is change the sync adjustment springs (which you probably don't need to do anyway) and the o-rings in between the vent T-connectors.

I still haven't separated the carbs on the 750T. The bike ran well enough that I felt this wasn't necessary. I cleaned them with a piece of wire and carb cleaner. The results weren't 100% but after about a dozen tanks of gas it seems to run great.

On the 550 I did a complete tear down, dip and clean and rebuild, but in that case carbs had some serious problems.
 
I took the carb assembly off the bike this afternoon and found the #3 float stuck like rusted truck on Aunt Millie's barn road.

I took the tops off and used a very soft touch with a scotch-brite pad on the floats. I reassembled and then inspected the jets. #2 was kinda gunky, so I cleaned it.

I'll put them back on the bike tomorrow. We'll see if that helps.

Should I have checked something else while I was there???
 
While you have them off of the bike, might as well check the float heights.

Also, make sure the choke pick-up tubes aren't clogged. Makes starting a whole lot easier. Check it/them with compressed air.
 
GS850_Coug said:
The "bench synch" procedure is very simple. Take a twist wire from a loaf of bread (strip off the coating first). Adjust the idle screw on carb #3 until you can just slide the wire in/out of the gap between the throttle plate and carb wall on carb #3 with some resistance. Then using the throttle screw between 3 & 4, adjust throttle plate for carb #4 for the same feel. Do the same for carb #1, then carb #2. This should give you good enough balance to start the bike and do some fine tuning.

Adjust the idle screw for base idle (1000-1100rpm). Then adjust pilot screws for highest idle. Then readjust base idle. At this point you should do a vacuum synch. This is simply adjusting the throttle plates until you have balanced vacuum across all carbs. Then readjust base idle again.

Any questions, ask 'em!
Click to expand...

I use a cigarette paper. Also handy for checking ignition point opening, brake shoe contact, etc,
 
frosty5011 said:
While you have them off of the bike, might as well check the float heights.

Also, make sure the choke pick-up tubes aren't clogged. Makes starting a whole lot easier. Check it/them with compressed air.
Click to expand...


A) how do you check the floats height?

and...

2) where are the choke pick up tubes?
 
All right. I got them all cleaned up and put on. Now it won't start. I suppose the bowls need to fill up or what??

I had to jump the danged thing.

Next question. petcock...PRI is at 10 o'clock?? Most valves I've seen are usually 90 degrees to the flow to turn off/on.

If somebody offers me 500 bucks for this thing I'M GONNA TAKE IT!!
 
Prime the carbs to fill the bowls first. On my petcock it does need vacuum to activate prime but does not need continuous vacuum.
 
Can also use starter fluid sparingly to get the bike to run long enough to fill the bowls. You also should open the throttle valves by adjusting the idle screw in and use full choke. Once the bike is running and choke is off, you can adjust the idle to 1000-1100. Then adjust each pilot screw for highest idle. Then readjust idle to 1000-1100.

Then comes the Vacuum synch.
 
Ok, carbs are now clean as a whistle. When I went to start...nothing! It turns over, has spark. This went on for thirty minutes!! Finally I opened the screw at the bottom of one of the bowls and---DRY, NOTHING!

I checked for kinks in my fuel line-clear. Petcock opens when I suck on the vacuum tube-check. Vacuum from the carb rail--clear too.

I tried the petcock in different configurations..."|", "\", and "-". Still nothing.

Did I miss something?
 
Suck on the vacuum line leading to your petcock for a minute or two to fill your bowls. I run into this every time I remove my carbs.
 
I wanted to really bad but, I was getting a vacuum leak froom the carb end so I clamped it off so it wouldn't leak vacuum.

So much for that...Ok, I'll try it.

What about those positions on the petcock? Is PRI like this..."\" or am I dreaming?
 
If you clamped off you vacuum line from carb to petcock you'll never get gas into your carbs. It is a vacuum activated valve. Do you have an 80 petcock? If you do up down is prime and back and forth is run.
 
Last edited:
OklahomaPomade said:
I wanted to really bad but, I was getting a vacuum leak froom the carb end so I clamped it off so it wouldn't leak vacuum.

So much for that...Ok, I'll try it.

What about those positions on the petcock? Is PRI like this..."\" or am I dreaming?
Click to expand...

You don't have a prime (if it's a standard '80's petcock).....you have to suck on the end of the vacuum hose which leads to the petcock. Once gas start flowing, you can (while maintaining suction) bend the tube and put a clothespin/clamp on it, then let go.....the vacuum will remain and the gas will continue to flow.
 
I got the bowls to fill and 1st try on the starter...VROOM. It idled at 5500 RPM for about 2 minutes then settled to around 3000.

I let it run like that for several minutes. **** it off for 5, came back and it started right up.

Problem now is, the screws on the bottom of my #1 and #2 bowls are leaking.
 
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